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The Water Droplet Thread

(40 posts) (11 voices)
  • Started 3 years ago by NikoDoby
  • Latest reply from PBrigido
  • Related Topics:
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  • fake watches for sale
  • Technique
  • Water Droplet
« Previous12
  1. bmxdad

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    PBrigido said:
    Very true! I like your perspective!! :)

    I still hope that you will start a new thread with this "Phil’s water drop technique" in the Nikon Wiki area

    I would get it going but does not really have anything to add, yet

    Pete

    Posted 3 years ago #
  2. PBrigido

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    I just got it started! I hope many others post their methods also. Never hurts to get a nice conglomerate of ideas going. :)

    Posted 3 years ago #
  3. PBrigido

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    On a side note, I have a question. I was using my SB-800 to control my SB-900 as a remote. I know that you can use your on camera flash to be setup as the master and have the SB-900 trigger remotely without using the SU-800. The problem I run into is that I am unable to get the shutter speed past 320 when not using the SU-800. I'm sure it is just a simple setting I am missing, but if anyone is willing to drop some advice as to how, I would love you forever!

    Posted 3 years ago #
  4. bmxdad

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    PBrigido said:
    I just got it started! I hope many others post their methods also. Never hurts to get a nice conglomerate of ideas going. :)

    Thanks

    Pete

    Sorry but I have not done a lot of High Speed flash shooting yet and don't have a SB-800

    Posted 3 years ago #
  5. jonnyapple

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    Phil, this might make you hate me forever, but I'm not sure you need to get the shutter speed higher. If you're shooting in the dark (or mostly dark, meaning at least a few stops below the flash output), I think your flash duration (around 1/1000 s) is the shutter speed. High speed sync is handy when you want to overpower bright ambient light with the flash, but in the dark I don't think you need it.

    Then again, I could be wrong. Maybe the water is moving fast enough that you need the faster speeds. Did you try it with a slower shutter and it wasn't as sharp?

    Posted 3 years ago #
  6. PBrigido

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    Actually I did try at a lower shutter speed...but it was so long ago I can't honestly remember the results. I think I just got stuck in the mentality of "faster is better" for this. But you are right, tonight I'll give a slower speed and see what it results in.

    I'll keep you posted! Thanks! :)

    Posted 3 years ago #
  7. monty11

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    @jonnyapple, with high speed sync the flash actually burns longer and with a lower power than usually. The reason for this is the movement of the shutter curtains.

    The flash sync speed is different for different cameras (it keeps getting faster as the shutter technology improves). When the exposure begins the front curtain opens and at the end of the exposure the rear curtain closes. When the exposure times get short enough, the rear curtain will start closing before the front curtain has fully opened, which means that above a certain shutter speed, the sensor is no longer fully exposed but a slit passes over it.

    Flash sync speed is the fastest shutter speed where the sensor is fully exposed. If a flash is fired above that shutter speed, effect will be that only the section of the sensor that was exposed during the flash will record the flash and the rest will be dark.

    Posted 3 years ago #
  8. monty11

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    @jonnyapple, with high speed sync the flash actually burns longer and with a lower power than usually. The reason for this is the movement of the shutter curtains.

    The flash sync speed is different for different cameras (it keeps getting faster as the shutter technology improves). When the exposure begins the front curtain opens and at the end of the exposure the rear curtain closes. When the exposure times get short enough, the rear curtain will start closing before the front curtain has fully opened, which means that above a certain shutter speed, the sensor is no longer fully exposed but a slit passes over it.

    Flash sync speed is the fastest shutter speed where the sensor is fully exposed. If a flash is fired above that shutter speed, effect will be that only the section of the sensor that was exposed during the flash will record the flash and the rest will be dark.

    Posted 3 years ago #
  9. alphanikonrex

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    Great explanation. Thanks monty11!

    Posted 3 years ago #
  10. bmxdad

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    jonnyapple said:
    Phil, this might make you hate me forever, but I'm not sure you need to get the shutter speed higher. If you're shooting in the dark (or mostly dark, meaning at least a few stops below the flash output), I think your flash duration (around 1/1000 s) is the shutter speed. High speed sync is handy when you want to overpower bright ambient light with the flash, but in the dark I don't think you need it.

    Then again, I could be wrong. Maybe the water is moving fast enough that you need the faster speeds. Did you try it with a slower shutter and it wasn't as sharp?

    I tried the dark way and yes the flash at low power has a very fast exposure, but it is so hard to actual do the picture, you can not see anything. Phil's way is better, you can see what you are doing and you only have to look at his pictures, it really works

    Pete

    Posted 3 years ago #
  11. heartyfisher

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    monty11 said:
    @jonnyapple, with high speed sync the flash actually burns longer and with a lower power than usually. The reason for this is the movement of the shutter curtains.

    The flash sync speed is different for different cameras (it keeps getting faster as the shutter technology improves). When the exposure begins the front curtain opens and at the end of the exposure the rear curtain closes. When the exposure times get short enough, the rear curtain will start closing before the front curtain has fully opened, which means that above a certain shutter speed, the sensor is no longer fully exposed but a slit passes over it.

    Flash sync speed is the fastest shutter speed where the sensor is fully exposed. If a flash is fired above that shutter speed, effect will be that only the section of the sensor that was exposed during the flash will record the flash and the rest will be dark.

    Thats true unless you have a D70. The problem withe the high speed sync thingi compared to the D70 is that the high speed sync actually occures across a time span of 1/250 of a second which is the time it takes for the shutter to move from top to bottom of the frame. The D70 actually captures 1/8000 th of a second as its an electronic shutter. So if you are trying to photograph something that is around for 1/4000 of a second. you wont be able to get all of it with the high sync method.

    Actually syncing your shutter to fire at the precise time is another matter!! :-) (think light or sonic sensor triggers)

    Posted 3 years ago #
  12. PABrigido

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    Here is another. POD for November isn't working...so this may be a double post if it eventually shows up in the POD.

    DSC_5918 Updated

    Posted 3 years ago #
  13. alphanikonrex

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    You keep on running into problems, don't you?

    Nice shot though :^)

    Posted 3 years ago #
  14. PABrigido

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    lol yeah, I think this site has a grudge against me! So far the score is:

    NR.com 6

    Phil 0

    Posted 3 years ago #
  15. PBrigido

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    lol I sure do. Although after reading some posts today, it seems like I am not the only one! Hope my bad luck didn't wear off on you guys. :)

    Posted 3 years ago #

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