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D7000 night shots

(10 posts) (7 voices)
  • Started 9 months ago by dolphinks
  • Latest reply from tcole1983
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  1. dolphinks

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    Joined: Aug '12
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    I have a D7000 & still learning how to use the DSLR. I try to take a lot of photos at the drag races & this time of the year it gets dark pretty early.
    I have an SB700 flash.

    Anyone have any suggestions on a good starter lens for night shots with my existing flash? I don't have funds for an expensive lens right now.

    Also, some recommendations on basic settings on the camera & flash for night shots at the drag races.

    Posted 9 months ago #
  2. R8R

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    Depends on how close you want to (or can) get. If you are in the stands, a single SB-700 isn't going to do much, if anything unless you get in close or get the flash in close and trigger it remotely.

    For races, sports, etc look for a telephoto zoom with a wide aperture at the long end and spend as much as you can. I would suggest a used 80-200mm f/2.8 or similar.

    Cheaper: a 50mm f/1.8 and then get as close as possible.

    Posted 9 months ago #
  3. Bland

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    About all you can do is set your ISO @ 3200. Any higher ISO on the D7000 at night is probably going to be too noisy to fix but try 6400 a couple of times to see what you get.

    Shoot in Aperture (A) mode at the widest open aperture you can. You'll have to pan because you'll be shooting too slow to capture any high speed. So get them coming off the line where the drag strip lights are the brightest. Shoot in raw, Nikon's ViewNX2 is free and can edit raw. You'll have to denoise so download a free trial of Topaz Denoise.

    If you want to try using the SB700, shoot in Progam (P) mode and let your camera do the thinking.

    On metering, normally you'd want to use single point during the day but dynamice area might work better for night shots. Try both ways and see what you get.

    Good luck!

    Posted 9 months ago #
  4. DutchNikon

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    Al ot depends on WHAT you want to use as a subject..

    Like Static objects you can set your camera to longer xposure times, and if needed fire your flash when handholding ( test button) multiple times from different angles at the object you want to highlite, or "Paint with light" using a torchlight.. ( this is just one possibility..) , for this no special lens is needed, and a smaller aperture is used for good DOF...

    Main gear you need : Your brain for creativity, and a good tripod to put your camera on....

    Posted 9 months ago #
  5. Godless

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    dolphinks said:
    Anyone have any suggestions on a good starter lens for night shots with my existing flash?

    Your photos will have a more natural look to them if shot with a large aperture instead of the flash. So my advice to you is: get a cheap and fast prime lens.

    The 50mm 1.8G is quite cheap, so is the 35mm 1.8G. The 85mm 1.8G costs a bit more, but it´s really good and might be the thing for you, if you cannot get close enough to your subject. The D series 85mm 1.8 is really good too, if you do not mind the rotating focus ring during AF. You might get the D series 85mm quite cheap now, when the newer G series one is out.

    I really don´t know what kind of images and framing you are after, so I cannot give you more exact advice on the focal length. I have never been to a drag race, so I have no clue how close to the action it is possible to get there. If you have a kit lens, as you probably do, check the EXIF data and see what focal length has produced the kind of framing you are looking for. Get a prime close to that focal length and you´re done.

    My 0.2 cents.

    Posted 9 months ago #
  6. spraynpray

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    Maybe the 85mm f1.8G as it is relatively cheap, sharp and fast. Will be a great portrait lens at other times.

    You really need a cheap fast telephoto which does not exist so the 85 may be the best compromise.

    Posted 9 months ago #
  7. Bland

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    spraynpray said:
    Maybe the 85mm f1.8G as it is relatively cheap, sharp and fast. Will be a great portrait lens at other times.

    You really need a cheap fast telephoto which does not exist so the 85 may be the best compromise.

    I'd go with the 85mm 1.8 as well. The 50mm is going to put him too close for panning, as the cars will be going by too fast.

    I've shot at 70-100mm from the top row of our track for panning and it works well for a smooth pan.

    It still boils down to trying to shoot something he doesn't have the right equipment (lens) for, D7000 will work great. It's like hunting, a 22 works well for shooting squirrels but it isn't going to do you any good against a water buffalo. The degree of difficulty from shooting racing at day and night would be the same as the squirrel and the water buffalo.

    Posted 9 months ago #
  8. spraynpray

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    LOL! Great analogy Bland - except I haven't heard of anybody being stomped flat by a squirrel...

    Posted 9 months ago #
  9. R8R

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    Right now on Craig's List here in the bay area I see a Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 push/pull zoom for just $400.

    Something like that will get you close enough to see the whites of the driver's eyes.

    Starter lens always means (at least to me) go for a well used lens for cheap and hone your skills.

    Posted 9 months ago #
  10. tcole1983

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    A D4 would be awesome for this...but for a budget get a fast prime. Even the 2.8's aren't going to really shine and you will be pushing the ISO to the limits to get your shutter speeds up enough.

    That being said it sounds like you need to read up and learn some more...I think most would realize you aren't going to be shooting a flash at an event like this and it actually might get you kicked out. A bright flash to distract drivers = not good. The flash isn't going to have the range anyway to be effective.

    Get an F1.8 lens and up the ISO are really the only choices...and at that it will still be a challenge for sure. I shot my 18-200 with decent results at the NHRA finals a couple years ago, but it was a bright sunny day.

    Posted 9 months ago #

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