How do you all feel about close-up attachments? I'm looking into one for my 35mm f/1.8 DX lens just so I can get a wee bit closer to small subjects... they seem to only have them in #2 for the thread size.
Have any of you used them? How are they?
where there’s smoke there’s forum fire
How do you all feel about close-up attachments? I'm looking into one for my 35mm f/1.8 DX lens just so I can get a wee bit closer to small subjects... they seem to only have them in #2 for the thread size.
Have any of you used them? How are they?
Single lens close up filter attachments create significant distortions for so so image quality. Higher end multi lens element close up lenses like the Canon 250D or 500D have less distortions but are costly. Extension tubes in conjunctions with a high quality lens is the best option for good close-up IQ
On a shorter lens like your 35 F1.8 an extension tube will work great, get a Kenko set that have electronic connection to your lens. You could read this link it explains different ways to get into macro and the math on the enlargement you will get
http://www.peterforsell.com/macro.html
Pete
Is there any reason to choose Nikon branded extension tubes over others? If not, what do you recommend?
I shouldn't think so. From my understanding, the Nikon tubes haven't been updated for ages, and there are incompatibilities with newer lenses. I would definitely recommend getting 3rd party tubes.
On your lens your need extension tubes that can connect and control the electronic aperture, the Nikon can not
This Kenko model is on my to get list, found on our dear Ebay
Pete
I asked the same question, after doing research I found that the Kenko extension tubes were the best way to go.
"Close up filters" are OK just to record an image of something small. They're easy to pack and carry, so you're more likely to have them with you on that trip into the wilderness area. For good images, extesnion tubes or bellows are definately the way to go. I haven't used the Kenko (I use a bellows), but what I've read impressed me favorably. The micro and macro world is fascinating and well worth exploring.
I have the Kenko tubes and the Raynox 250 3element close up. Both are great options for getting close up pictures. For your 35 mm I would recomend getting the kenko. However, the raynox is really convient especially with longer focal length lenses. What other lenses do you have?
I have tried single element close up filters.. and I dont like the distortions and the colour fringing. However, I was very impressed with the raynox 3 element close up filter. Its got an adapter that clips on to filters from 49mm to 67 mm so one close up filter can be used on a range of lenses.
http://www.digitalslr.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13510&highlight=raynox is my quick review and unboxing! :-)
Other than the 35mm prime, I only have an 18-135mm f/4-5.6 (the kit lens for the D80). I would primarily use my prime just because it's a pretty fast lens.
Actually for macro you really dont need a fast lense, you will be working with F8 to F16 most times because you will need the DOF. Your 18-135 would just about be perfect with the raynox. The 18-135 is very sharp! may even be the sharpest of the 18-xxx nikkor lenses. You will get good clearance. (working distance) that you will not have with the 35mm + Extension tubes. Plus you will have Zoom that will allow you to change magnification and allow better composition with the raynox.
Anyone with experience with Kenko extension tubes on a 105mm AF-S Macro Nikkor?
Somewhat interested in it.
Either that or getting close up lenses.
I own the Kenko tubes. It might just be my copy but sometimes the camera and lens loses contact, creating an AF error and so forth. There's enough play in the tubes when using all three that they can twist just enough for the contacts to miss-align. That said, a simple, slight twist in the opposite direction can put everything back in order and things start working again.
While I do most of my work with the 200mm, one day I borrowed my gf's 105mm and put my TC 20 III and the tubes on it. It was very long and not very stable/practical to work with either.
Other than all that, they work great.
Hi all,
Like anything else, it depends...
If you really want to 'get close and magnify the subject', the choices are vary.
Close up lenses (high quality such as B+W) do a really good job for light duty in the +1 to +5 range, but for really close up work, rings or bellows work very well, but they work even better when used with a macro lens. They seem okay to me, but in the macro world, the level of 'closeness' is _rarely_ enough to make it worthwhile, but sometimes it is _perfect_ - so as always, mileage varies. BTW, add my voice to the list that it makes little sense to put a $35 filter (or lens attachment) in front of a $1200 lens. In the end, you usually get what you pay for.
None of my lenses are 'automatically' married to the bellows attachment I own - an older version BP-6, but it has a twin shutter attachment (now I use a single shutter release - the dual release doesn't work on the digital cameras) that closes the lens to the f-stop prior to firing the shutter of the camera.
In broad stokes, macro work is more detailed and studied - usually - and one can afford the time to do setup properly (those who chase butterflies will take issue with that ;-) ), and a good setup is what is needed to get it right.
A lot, as I opined, depends on what you're shooting, how often you plan to shoot it, and what kind of budget you wish to dedicate to it.
A good macro lens might be the way to go first. If one is shooting DX, a 60mm f2.8 makes a really good portrait lens, too.
My best,
Mike
I have the canon 500 D close up lens, it works with the 70-120 f 2.8 and the 24- 120 f 4 .it is light and easy to carry when travelling
For "proper jobs" I use the 105MM AF-S VR 105 f/2.8G IF-ED Micro Nikkor and an R1 flash kit, on a D800. if I need to closer than 1:1, I simply crop to ~ DX
I have tried using the 105 macro with the 500D with less than satisfactory results
Shooting closer than 1 :1 is always going to be challenging . DOF in non existent and camera shake a major issue
Years ago, when I have shot film , I used a set Nikon K series rings with an F and one of the first the 50mm macros. Everything was manual. my "camera stand" weighed a ton and was very fixed to the wall and floor of the lab were I worked
two disadvantages with bellows
less rigid then rings ( or at least they used to be )
it is difficult to go back to exactly the same extension (this was important with film, as you rarely got it right first time)
For what it is worth...I have a set of the Vivitar N-AF Digital Macro Extension Tubes and I have found these work well. The reviews for these are varied, yet I think they are well made and have no problems. An example is here, the front cap from the 85mm f/1.8 (after I removed it, :)....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fantinesfotos/6909256516/sizes/o/in/photostream/
If one looks also at the Exif data it will be surprising....AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G with 32mm of extension tubes for close focus. Exposure data: 1/320 f/6.3, ISO 16000
And, it does have a Hoya UV filter on the front, but the image at full size looks quite nice to me.
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