Yes, there are two types of limitations: Camera systems limitations and operator limitations!
Using D7000 to shoot soccer matches
(32 posts) (11 voices)-
Posted 1 year ago #
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Hello friends, I am happy to report that I am making headway. However, I guess I need more explanation on the F16 rule.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Google sunny 16 rule and read about it in a few different places.
Basically is it this: Say you are using ISO 100. On a bright sunny day if you set your f stop to f16 and your shutter speed to 1/100th (1/125th is close enough) of a second you will have a properly exposed photograph.
If you set your ISO to 200 then you set your f stop to f16 and you r shutter speed to 1/200th (1/250th will be close enough) of a second and you will have a properly exposed photographs.
Set your f stop to f16. Look at the ISO your camera is set for. Use the shutter speed closed to the reciprocal of that ISO. Get the sunny 16 rule now?
Posted 1 year ago # -
dkofikyei said:
Hello friends, I am happy to report that I am making headway. However, I guess I need more explanation on the F16 rule.Sunny 16 never made any since to me. Like-when I'm shooting into a small amount of shade on a sunny day... My more artistic friends find it really simple. My brain is not wired for that type of description. Anymore my brain coupled with experience just calculates it automatically - kind of.
With the gear you have, why are you trying or wanting to manually override the camera?
I'm not sure why, but I keep seeing people who are New to DSLRs thinking that going manual is the way to go. Not sure if this is an "old way" of thinking or if there is some book or article out there that many beginners seem to find. I say keep to the pre determined "modes" and then work your way into P/S/A.
Posted 1 year ago # -
The way I use the Sunny F16 rule is knowing what it states it should be on a sunny day (ISO/100 F/16 1/100). If clouds come in I adjust my ISO to get the Sunny F16 rule (ISO/400 F/16 1/100). "Always" shoot in Aperture mode when doing this.
All I have to do once the ISO is set is change my Aperture to get the speed I desire.
It's just a basic and easy way to get good results in Aperture mode, when time is an issue.Posted 1 year ago # -
I almost never shoot manual except when shooting with studio strobes. The Nikon Matrix metering system is smarter and more accurate than the "sunny 16 rule" or my eye. I see that rule as an historical artifact. If I feel I want a bit more or a bit less exposure than the camera selects I simply use my exposure compensation button. For example a -0.3 will deepen the colors (a look I like) and a +0.3 or +0.7 or +1.0 will brighten a whiter than medium gray scene. Also, I find Nikon's Active-D lighting system set on Auto really helps to keep the highlights from washing out and the shadows from going black. All those tools are better than the sunny 16 rule. Finally, exposure adjustments are easy to make in post processing. To me the ease with which small exposure and color adjustments can be made in post processing makes digital far better than film.
Posted 1 year ago # -
donaldejose said:
The Nikon Matrix metering system is smarter and more accurate than the "sunny 16 rule" or my eye. I see that rule as an historical artifact. If I feel I want a bit more or a bit less exposure than the camera selects I simply use my exposure compensation button. For example a -0.3 will deepen the colors (a look I like) and a +0.3 or +0.7 or +1.0 will brighten a whiter than medium gray scene.When I shoot, my interest is also getting the speed correct. Matrix metering is great when the conditions are perfect, doesn't do much good shooting into the sun and such.
To each their own, guess it depends if one is shooting moving subjects and not having the time to fiddle with the settings in your manner, or shooting a tree with all the time in the world to walk around it in order to find the perfect exposure.
Posted 1 year ago #
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