I have heard that for good results the lens must be suitable for the camera and lens. The 72mm is for my Sigma 18-200 which is my "walk about" lens. Which polarizer lens should I buy? Advice please.
Harriet
Which 72mm polarizer lens is best?
(31 posts) (15 voices)-
On the one hand there are those who say you shouldn't get less than the best (ergo the most expensive) and there are those who say you can get a good one for about £30. I am one of those who don't have B&W money so I have a Kenko which works fine for me. I doubt that my Nikon 35-105 or your Sigma 18-200 can see the difference.
Posted 1 year ago # -
B+W Kaesemann
Posted 1 year ago # -
I say Hoya HD.
BTW, it's a filter, not a lens.
Posted 1 year ago # -
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Sorry I meant filter it is for my lens of course. Typo!
I never buy without getting advice and reading reviews etc.
I have bought things straight from China in the past, I have sometimes been lucky (Customs the darlings) and other times I have been sorry.
I am now going to look up prices etc.
Thanks,
HarrietPosted 1 year ago # -
I have B+W, Hoya and Nikon filters (not just polarizing filters) and I've been happy with all of them - however, I have found that the B+W sometimes "lock" onto the lens a bit tighter (for which I have filter removal tools).
Posted 1 year ago # -
warprints said:
however, I have found that the B+W sometimes "lock" onto the lens a bit tighter (for which I have filter removal tools).There are tools? I usually just use a rubber band around the filter (which i carry with my in my camera bag). I once fought for almost 2 days trying to get a locked filter of my lens till i found this tip on the net.
Posted 1 year ago # -
nikon polarizers are very good. thought by many to be the best, and about the same a b+w, and cheaper than heliopan.
they dont do nd's though
Posted 1 year ago # -
@warprints - if You have problems with filter locking on Your lens, the easiest way to unscrew them is to put the lens (filter down) on a rubber surface, i.e. flipflop and twist the lens counterclockwise; cheapest than any tool and You can use it everywhere:)
Posted 1 year ago # -
Back when I used my 18-200 Nikon (with 72mm thread) the person I bought from suggested I get a 77mm filter and a 72mm->77mm step up ring. The idea is that there are more lenses with a 77mm diameter, and if ever I bought new glass, I'd have a filter that worked on more than one lens. Turns out, I got rid of my 18-200, and that 77mm polarizer is still in use on my new lenses today.
So now I tell everyone in a similar situation the same thing. :D
Posted 1 year ago # -
I was a big fan of filters until i did a comparison test of sharpness with several top of the line multicoated filters. I was shocked to find out how much it reduces the sharpness when looking at imaged 100% some people dont care about the slight sharpness loss but for me it bothered me knowing it was giving me less detail.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I would like to see the difference between my cheaper Kenko filter and say, a B&W - just to see if the performance justifies the crazy price.
Posted 1 year ago # -
LostNinja and Adamz, I used to use the rubber band method, but for the few bucks for the filter wrenches (and they pack easily) and they're actually quicker than getting the rubbber band around the filter (every millisecond counts !! LOL), I got the wrenches. I've also used mousepads (in the manner Adamz suggests) and jar openers (those floppy thin pieces of rubber). Actually, I think the real reason I bought the wrenches is that I'm basically a stuff person. If I think I may need something (be photography related, motorcycle related, etc.), I buy it.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Hi all,
I use the wrenches, too, and have for a long time. They are great to have. Filters will get stuck.
I tend to use either Nikon filters or B+W on nearly all my lenses. There was a 'UV (AKA protective filter' thread
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=1367
that when on for quite a while. Points I agree with are that an expensive lens can degrade with a really poor quality filter - but these days, good techniques in manufacturing have helped a lot in making some things equal out.
Photoshoper's can do a lot with layers in post, of course, which is a terrific way to ease some burden in shooting.
My best,
Mike
Posted 1 year ago # -
>>BTW, it's a filter, not a lens. <<
It's still a lens, albeit a simple one, and it WILL have an effect on the "lens" you're putting it on. Granted, sometimes you need to do this, as with a polarizer, but putting UVs in a lens to "protect" it is like wearing a condom all the time. Use one only when you need to.
Posted 1 year ago # -
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I tried out a cheapo polarizer (feeling a bit skinflint this week) and it got stuck, thank goodness for the tip about a rubber band. I have one of those thick rubber bands to stop lens creep and all I did was slip it down (a bit fiddly but I managed) and got the thing off. I say "thing" as it is going in the bin and I am going to order one of those recommended good ones mentioned above.
HarrietPosted 1 year ago # -
I've never used a Kenko so can't speak from experience, but Volkswagen make Rolls Royce's, and Ford own Aston Martin. It doesn't make them the same. You are right however, sometimes factories produce an identical item sold more cheaply under another name, question is which?
Posted 1 year ago # -
You also have to watch out for vignette when you are shooting 18mm. A thicker filters can be seen at the wide angle so it is best to buy a thin filter to avoid this problem. I used the Nikon 72mm on my 18-200 and it was an excellent filter, quite expensive but very good.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I liked the comparison of the Rolls Royce and other cars made by the same manufacturer
it brought a truism home to me. I haven't got the Kenko yet and I will only have the cheapo to compare it with but it will be interesting (I suppose).
For being a skinflint I will probably end up spending much more than if I had chosen the best first off, I am now going to look at the Nikon.....Photography can be an expensive hobby that is true.
HarrietPosted 1 year ago #
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