So I never have much luck with indoor pictures. What lens would you use? For room size, small. If I had more distance I could use my 105 F2.8 and it would probably be fine, but there is no way unless I just want a head shot. Even with the 35 F1.8 I am at one wall while the people or person are at the other. Also I don't feel like I get that great of results with the 35. Is there any way to get any sort of bokeh at this distance...like 10-15 feet? What would you do for shooting people in a small room?
What would you use in a small room?
(34 posts) (16 voices)-
Posted 1 year ago #
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A shorter macro would do wonders for you I think. The old AI-S 55mm micro is a gem, cheap, sharp and wonderful bokeh.
Posted 1 year ago # -
The The Brenizer Method might work with the 105
http://blog.buiphotos.com/2009/07/the-brenizer-method-explained-with-directions/
but the easy solution is a studio with out walls (your local park)
Posted 1 year ago # -
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Hmmm...I think I just need to work on it. If they are indoor pictures it is because the weather isn't nice otherwise we would be outside. Yesterday it was for maternity pictures of my wife and we were in the nursery. Other times though in my brothers house at Christmas time or things like that I felt the same way about the results. I know my lighting could use some work and it is a pain when I am trying to be in the picture also and using a tripod and remote.
If I have the space the 105 F2.8 is like magic and every picture turns out great. I feel like I have to work really hard with the 35 F1.8 to come up with something that I like. I know the short focal length is part of the problem when I use the 35 compared to the 105. I know another problem is that the distance from the person to the background isn't very large when I am at one end and the person is at the other. I might try my 12-24 F4 and if I am closer to the subject while the background is further away it might produce what I am looking for.
(I don't shoot many portraits if you couldn't tell)
Posted 1 year ago # -
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tcole1983 said:
So I never have much luck with indoor pictures. What lens would you use? For room size, small.24mm 1.4G is my number one gun these days, no need for flash anywhere. In very small places I often have fun with the Samyang 8mm fisheye as well. Try the ultrawide with modest flash bounced to the ceiling.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Perhaps you could try to put your subject in one corner of the room with yourself in the other corner and (if you have white walls) use the walls as your diffusing "screen" by pointing your lights or flash to bounce off the walls. The diagonal distance (corner to corner) in a square room is longer than any of the sides.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Well I thought about it more and maybe using the 12-24 and being very close while having more distance to the background would maybe get me better subject isolation. I will have to try it next time.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Godless said:
24mm 1.4G is my number one gun these days, no need for flash anywhere. In very small places I often have fun with the Samyang 8mm fisheye as well. Try the ultrawide with modest flash bounced to the ceiling.That would probably work best, but for the price of that lens I have lots of other stuff I shoot more often that I want lenses for.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Be careful with using anything wider than 50mm as the face of your subject can distort (elongates the nose and makes the ears recede too much.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Donald is right... 35mm on dx and 50mm on fx...
Posted 1 year ago # -
From what you're saying it sounds like you are just trying to isolate subject. If Bokeh isn't an option have you considered putting a screen of some sort or a fabric/blanket behind the subject to eliminate the issue? I think the idea of moving closer to subject will be less flattering.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I like small rooms to force people to be more comfortable for close shots and I use the 60mm 2.8 macro, 35mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4g (on DX). For groups I use my 12-24.
Bokeh is almost impossible with groups or anything more than a 1/2 shot (torso and head) is your goal. I think I understand what you are trying to do as I desired the same - Not so close but wanting bokeh- I gave up on it long ago and focused on interesting compositions with subjects being on the edges with negative space in the middle.
Posted 1 year ago # -
To get bokeh you're going to have to get in close with the 35mm 1.8, there's no way around it.
Like others have said, for one or two people it might work, but it won't work for group shots
Posted 1 year ago # -
TaoTeJared said:
I like small rooms to force people to be more comfortable for close shots and I use the 60mm 2.8 macro, 35mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4g (on DX). For groups I use my 12-24.Bokeh is almost impossible with groups or anything more than a 1/2 shot (torso and head) is your goal. I think I understand what you are trying to do as I desired the same - Not so close but wanting bokeh- I gave up on it long ago and focused on interesting compositions with subjects being on the edges with negative space in the middle.
NSXType-R said:
To get bokeh you're going to have to get in close with the 35mm 1.8, there's no way around it.Like others have said, for one or two people it might work, but it won't work for group shots
Yeah Tao...and NSX I know, but I needed a full body shot for these so getting closer with the 35 wouldn't work. I thought it might not be possible at least with what I have to work with. I just need more space to use my 105 and it wouldn't be a problem. I might invest in the 50 or 85 F1.8 so that at least it isn't as long as the 105.
I also get a little flustered setting it up on a tripod and using a remote and stuff. If I was just snapping the pictures of someone else then I might not be so terrible at it.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Ouch - I have a 17mm f/3.5 tokina that has very little distortion that comes to mind. 12-24mm is probably the best option and do the "bokeh" in post. No much of a choice any other way.
Posted 1 year ago # -
donaldejose said:
Be careful with using anything wider than 50mm as the face of your subject can distort (elongates the nose and makes the ears recede too much.Not necessarily a bad thing in, for example, party photos. UWA distortion is a thing that may make or break an image. Do it right and people will refer to you as an artist.
Posted 1 year ago # -
For people, a standard 50mm will do (on FX). I tried using a 28mm and it gets too much of the room in the shot. If you want to concentrate on the person, use a 50mm or better yet, an 85mm if you have enough room and want a good crop.
Posted 1 year ago # -
I've done interiors with both of my small DSLRs, and the following photo was taken using a Nikon D60 (DX) with a Nikkor 12-24/f4 lens (DX), and a tripod, to capture a room with dimensions approx 4mX4m (13'X13').
Just posted this example to flicker, at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/68039985@N08/6834722634/sizes/l/in/photostream/
Cheers
Michael
Posted 1 year ago # -
Lol well it appears we are off topic now. I wasn't trying to take pictures of the room (but thanks anyway). A longer lens isn't the solution as if i was standing wall to wall with the 35 then longer = not going to work. If i have the working room or just needed a head shot or upper half of the body it wouldn't be a problem. The problem is maybe a 10x12' room andd needing the whole body in the picture.
I could see the distortion being a problem though on using the UWA...i might try it though just to see. It might do something more for me than what i was getting. I at least wouldn't have to worry about my working distance at all.
Posted 1 year ago # -
To get bokeh you need distance BEHIND your subject and the background. Therefore in a small room you're just not going to get it, regardless of what lens you use. A head shot maybe, but that's not your objective.
You can do it in Photoshop, but it takes familiarity with making a precision silhouette and effectively filling background data in. In short, it's work.
Posted 1 year ago # -
A different approach - and not necessarily one that will fit your desired output - Put the camera high and shoot down at your subject. It will give you a teen Facebook profile look that you'll probably dislike as much as I do, but it will give you more body to work with and depending on how you set up your shot, you may be able to get close enough with the 35 mm 1.8 to get some bokeh on the shot. The focal plane when shooting down would mean you'd have the head (depending on DoF/aperture) in focus, and the bokeh would kick in for the body too, which might not be what you want. Anyway, it's fun to try to think through the challenge you set. Good luck with however you make it work.
Posted 1 year ago # -
Gosh what a nice thread.... an opinion for each situation and a thousand ideas... So..
Bokah... either close up or a long lens.... wide open or close to this.
Shooting people inside.... I attempt to determine what I want in the end.... If a wide, slight distortion is desired, for drama, then on DX, a 12-24mm or the 16-35mm. Even 10.5mm, but extreme care must be taken with humans so as to not give them undesired characteristics.... as in caricatures. For heads on DX, I like the 24-120mm with the caveat one must have a high ISO if stopping the subject is desired. The 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.8 are super for portraits. Even the 135mm f/2.0... The faster lens allows a higher shutter and stops subject movement better than a VR which is great for camera shake, but unfortunately still requires the subject to be still.
I think what I just said was this: Take a lens, e.g.., 50mm f/1.4 on DX, shoot about fifty shots in a room. Then evaluate and edit viciously down to about five photos. Next, try another lens, either 85 or 35. Same thing. I make so many mistakes and throw away about 50-75% of the shots for multiple reasons, I think we simply have to practice and learn over and over.
The other option, not my favorite, is to use two, three or four strobes, either into the walls, or one wall, and ceiling, and shoot with the f stop you want after adjustments. One can actually make the lighting look like available light if several strobes are strategically placed and adjusted for low light levels, but with the 1/800th second flash, the movement problem is solved. Of course, umbrellas or soft lights can be used if there is room.
The camera angle, high and down is great for groups. One gets a "special effect" with the distortion.
Posted 1 year ago #
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