Looks like you haven't much on the wide side, and a lot of redundancies on the tele side - most things overlap.
Sharp lenses come in all maximum apertures, so don't be mislead to think, for example, that a f1.4 is going to be sharper than a f1.8. Even kit lenses such as the 18-105 f3.5-5.6 is a terrific and sharp lens, are generally sharp. The 18-105 is one of the sharpest lenses I own and I take it in my bag all the time. It's also one of the lightest, and likely a great go to lens for those getting started. It was put in the kit for a reason.
Fast lenses work for a set of reasons that shooters need to understand. Coupled with the lens and camera and ISO you use, you have greater control over how your image will appear. That means a multitude of things from depth of field, and from the lens selected a quality called bokeh - also part of that DOF, to motion blur control in the image itself, to the appearance of grain in the image, color and contrast.
In film days, you loaded your film and your latitude was limited, very limited.
You mentioned a 105mm micro, which is nice, but keep in mind that is also a fairly substantial telephoto lens on the DX format, pushing you out to 150mm. I have an older model of the 105 lens, which doesn't have VR, and the lens is quite contrasty. I really like it and use it a lot. I also have the 60mm Micro, while somewhat redundant, it fits the slide copier and bellows attachment.
You might consider a wide zoom such as the 12-24mm or the Tonika 11-16mm.
My kit has as many primes as zooms. Some of my lenses are over 30 years old, they are the few that survived the last robbery, and they work just as well as the lenses I bought in the last year.
If you are shooting wildlife and landscapes in a park or forest you might find a good tripod and shutter remote cable will serve you well, too, perhaps a lot better than a lens. Be sure to turn off VR if the camera is on a tripod. :-)
As a shooting tip, as counterproductive as it might sound, I'd recommend that you leave VR off as a rule, and turn it ON when you know that you need it, then turn it off after the shoot. It will save your battery, and disciple you to your tripod (and you should use a tripod). ;-)