@Super Shooter, I can assure you that OCD is not one of my traits. I purchased a new camera and just want to be certain that it does not have a defect. I have all the right to check on what I consider as an imperfect imaging device, and it appears that many have experienced similar problems on the D7000 and/or do not consider my claims as being paranoid.
[closed]
Nikon D7000, warranty claim rejected by local dealer (Sensor Cleaning)
(46 posts) (15 voices)-
Posted 2 years ago #
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@Rx4Photo, please note that the camera has just been cleaned by the local Nikon service shop (so I am certain they tried all they could to sort it out). To be honest last week I ordered a Giottos AA1903 Rocket air blaster and it is at the post office waiting to be collected.
Posted 2 years ago # -
@jerl - thanks. As per my previous comments my worry is that the camera was just returned from cleaning at the only Nikon shop in Malta when I shot the test photo. My opinion is that therefore they used swab cleaning and it still did not remove the remaining spots which an expert in the field suggested that they are probably oil or water marks on the low pass filter not a defect. Last night I sent a request to Nikon Corporation to receive their opinion. Based on their comments I will decide what to do. If I keep the camera, while it is another warranty I will only do what the user manual permits, i.e. cleaning with a dust blower. Once the warranty expires I would consider the swab cleaning option if there is the need.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Rx4Photo said:
My sensor collected a few dust specs with multiple lens changes on a recent vacation. Looked similar to pics referred to by the OP. Got a Giottos AA1903 Rocket air blaster, locked the mirror up and pumped like there's no tomorrow. Sensor clean. Problem solved.This is exactly what I do.. but beware that you should use a fully charged battery, I have read from users that got their camera broken due to the fact the mirror closed because the battery drained and the spring of the mirror or courtain broke!
The Gioto Rocket Blower is excellent.
rpps said:
I too would like to know is it a risky thing do to try and clean your sensor with things like Eclipse Swabs, I was under the impression that it was easy to do as long as you don't make the swab too wet with the fluid which could leave traces behind.
I don't fancy sending my camera back to Nikon Australia as it would take 3 weeksIf the blowing does not work, I used the wet "copperhill method" for cleaning the sensor with the Eclipse Swabs.. but the last time I have done this on my D70s, I got traces behind, and that was because the fluid I was using is "old" already (6 years!).. therefore, if you do the wet method, don't use old eclipse fluid.! It took me a while to clean that traces with other lens-cleaning fluids..
Posted 2 years ago # -
guys, I polished my glases [best pair] and I cannot see anything to complain about.
one of the advantages to getting older.
besides, who takes plain pictures except for scientific purposes.
I would think in shooting "normal" pictures there is nothing that you could notice.
and if there is, then you can now do your own post processing, half the fun, but again I do not see anything to complain about.
my one and a half cents.
Posted 2 years ago # -
rbid said:
This is exactly what I do.. but beware that you should use a fully charged battery, I have read from users that got their camera broken due to the fact the mirror closed because the battery drained and the spring of the mirror or courtain broke!The Gioto Rocket Blower is excellent.
If the blowing does not work, I used the wet "copperhill method" for cleaning the sensor with the Eclipse Swabs.. but the last time I have done this on my D70s, I got traces behind, and that was because the fluid I was using is "old" already (6 years!).. therefore, if you do the wet method, don't use old eclipse fluid.! It took me a while to clean that traces with other lens-cleaning fluids..
rbid it is sure nice of you to have your family [rpps] join in the discussions, and have them use Nikon equipment also.
family resemblence is striking.
Posted 2 years ago # -
@Ian - you still haven't stated if your lens is clean. I still think those are lens specs and not sensor stuff - unless you can see something on your sensor.
Posted 2 years ago # -
TaoTeJared said:
@Ian - you still haven't stated if your lens is clean. I still think those are lens specs and not sensor stuff - unless you can see something on your sensor.@TaoTeJared Please note that I checked and cleaned the lens before sending the assembly to the Nikon shop and it was clean. I also expect that the Nikon shop would have changed lenses and checked for the spots with another lens, as it would be elementary troubleshooting. In other words I completely exclude that the specs are being caused by the lens.
Posted 2 years ago # -
rbid said:
The technique I use to see the dust before/after sensor cleaning is:
- Put the camera in aperture mode ("A").
- If it is a zoom lens, use the largest focal length (usually it has the smallest F number)
- Close the diaphragm to the largest F number. (f/39?)
- Use manual focus to infinite.
- Set to a fixed ISO (100)
- Use a white smooth wall with the camera located at 1 feet (30cm),
- No flash, no shadows on the wallI guess it will take longer than 1sec for the exposure time, during that time, move the camera (to blur any detail on the wall).
Then download the photo to your computer, open your beloved post-processing tool and do
an Auto-levels operation.. and walla, you will see all the dots accentuated.That's pretty much what I do, except for the last step, which is kind of a waste of time. Just pull the shot up on the LCD, magnify to about 4-5x and scroll around. If there's dust, it'll show up quite clearly (unless maybe if you have an older body with a teeny LCD). If you see dust, you can blow it out and immediately try another image ... no need to make trips back and forth to the computer. If scrolling is too much of a hassle, and the white wall where you shoot your test image is right next to the computer, then I guess there's no real advantage to this method... but do keep it in mind, it may be of some use when traveling or otherwise away from the computer.
rbid said:
.. but beware that you should use a fully charged battery, I have read from users that got their camera broken due to the fact the mirror closed because the battery drained and the spring of the mirror or courtain broke!
It may ease your mind to know that this is not an issue with newer bodies... the "Raise mirror for cleaning" command in my D80 and D7000 is ghosted unless the battery is 3/4 charged or more.
Posted 2 years ago # -
casperwb said:
rbid it is sure nice of you to have your family [rpps] join in the discussions, and have them use Nikon equipment also.family resemblence is striking.
I use the Nick name of Rbid that stands for my family members: Ricky, Brenda, Irit and Daniel. Irit is also a Nikon photographer :)
bhoveyga said:
That's pretty much what I do, except for the last step, which is kind of a waste of time. Just pull the shot up on the LCD, magnify to about 4-5x and scroll around. If there's dust, it'll show up quite clearly (unless maybe if you have an older body with a teeny LCD). If you see dust, you can blow it out and immediately try another image ... no need to make trips back and forth to the computer. If scrolling is too much of a hassle, and the white wall where you shoot your test image is right next to the computer, then I guess there's no real advantage to this method... but do keep it in mind, it may be of some use when traveling or otherwise away from the computer.True, but the auto-levels is really a good way to "certify" that your sensor is clean, by comparing two photos, one before cleaning and one after cleaning.
I usually use both methods, on-screen zoom and if satisfied, I go for my PC's screen + auto-levels.
bhoveyga said:
It may ease your mind to know that this is not an issue with newer bodies... the "Raise mirror for cleaning" command in my D80 and D7000 is ghosted unless the battery is 3/4 charged or more.
Neat!.. but if it takes a long time to clean the sensor, you may need to be careful as well.
Posted 2 years ago # -
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rbid said:
If the blowing does not work, I used the wet "copperhill method" for cleaning the sensor with the Eclipse Swabs.. but the last time I have done this on my D70s, I got traces behind, and that was because the fluid I was using is "old" already (6 years!).. therefore, if you do the wet method, don't use old eclipse fluid.! It took me a while to clean that traces with other lens-cleaning fluids..
I have used the Giotto Blower and that got rid of the loose dust but these other spots I'm seeing look like oil droplets they are perfectly round, how in the hell they got there I don't know.
I think I will send it back to Nikon to be done as they said they will do it under warranty and will pay for freight.
Last time I tried cleaning my old Pentax DSLR sensor, (stupid me used alcohol and a cotton bud) when I finished my sensor looked like an ant pit.
Only one of my marks show up when taking photos with white backgrounds at F14 up, so not much of a problem but still disconcerting for a new camera to have this .Posted 2 years ago # -
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rbid said:
The technique I use to see the dust before/after sensor cleaning is:
- Put the camera in aperture mode ("A").
- If it is a zoom lens, use the largest focal length (usually it has the smallest F number)
- Close the diaphragm to the largest F number. (f/39?)
- Use manual focus to infinite.
- Set to a fixed ISO (100)
- Use a white smooth wall with the camera located at 1 feet (30cm),
- No flash, no shadows on the wallI guess it will take longer than 1sec for the exposure time, during that time, move the camera (to blur any detail on the wall).
Then download the photo to your computer, open your beloved post-processing tool and do
an Auto-levels operation.. and walla, you will see all the dots accentuated.Remember, these dots will be visible only using a large F-Number (Above f/16).. or if you have elephants on your sensor, they may be visible at f/8 already.
I tried shots on a white background with largest focal length, and focus at infinity.
The spots are more evident at F36 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ivb266/5642308155
At F11 and larger apertures they are practically no longer visible.This confirms that they are sensor spots and as rpps commented they might be oil drops (obviously origtinating from the factory as this is camera is just 2 months old and I opened it twice, once to fit the kit lens and once to clean the lens to ascertain the cause of the spots before the service).
I tried the local Nikon agent, the only authorised cleaning shop in Malta to get the camera cleaned and they did not succeed (apart from treating me quite poorly). My only option is Nikon direct and I hope for a viable solution as otherwise I will take my money back and will have no option but to abandon the Nikon brand.
Posted 2 years ago # -
still can't see what is the problem
Posted 2 years ago # -
Abandon Nikon over dust/dirt on the sensor? With all due respect, if you aren't willing to deal with this very common issue(that is a problem for ALL SLR cameras), you need to stick to point-and-shoots. Otherwise, just go out shooting and stop obsessing. You will never stop down far enough to really see the dust you're seeing, in regular shooting.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Ian
You've taken some beautiful pictures with that camera! Look at them. They all contain various interesting subjects and vibrant colors. I'd give my mother-in-law's left kidney to be able to shoot the subjects you're shooting. Most of us - or none of us can even see the spots your referring to on those sky shots. We nor you will be able to see them if you continue to shoot real subjects. Look in the mirror, slap yourself, keep the camera!
Posted 2 years ago # -
Rx4Photo said:
IanI'd give my mother-in-law's left kidney to be able to shoot the subjects you're shooting.
Rx4photo, lovely, hope there are no mothers in law lurking here, or your wife does not have access to your computer, or you might be asking for a donation of a kidney.........smile.
Okay, I'll trade hers for a Nikon 300 2.8 with a TCE 1.4
Posted 2 years ago # -
What the hell! At f/36? You are seriously bitchin about spots that only you can see at f/36! I don't see anything. If you don't have OCD then you are just a Canon user having fun with us.
Posted 2 years ago # -
My eyes must not be as good as yours. I blew up the screen a bunch and could not see any specs inside of the circles. I think you are being too critical as these could not affect your pictures, even if you blew the pictures up to 11x14's.
DaveO
Posted 2 years ago # -
guys, for me this topic is closed. with f32 I would see marks on a new camera :) so please don't act ridiculous, it's just a camera and it gets dirty from time to time, unless You keep it in a vacuum jar.
Posted 2 years ago #
Topic Closed
This topic has been closed to new replies.
