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Wireless-TTL for Nikon film bodies:

(28 posts) (4 voices)
  • Started 2 years ago by studio460
  • Latest reply from studio460
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  1. Testing123

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    Joined: Oct '10
    Posts: 232

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    You also could most likely get away with secondary and tertiary strobes. ;)

    So let's say you're going to block the SB-27 from exposing the scene.
    The SB-800 becomes your key light.

    From all said above it will get wirelessly shut off by watching the SB-27 which will get shut off by watching the film. We all agree on that so far.

    Recall that film-TTL flash (and the d-TTL flash which briefly followed it) were crude. Much like the auto mode on a thyristor flash they looked for the quantity of light with one (or very few) sensors. Unlike the beautiful matrix-meter-powered flash exposure system (i-TTL) of today.

    SOOO... Theory:
    If you add a second and third DUMB slave (some $10 optical triggers) they should work and be counted so long as they provide an insignificant part of the total light and are set in manual mode with a duration shorter than the SB-27 and SB-800 will have.

    Example:
    SB-27 on camera in (film)TTL mode.
    SB-800 as key through beauty dish on face.
    Dark background.
    SB-XX set to manual mode, on $10 optical trigger 1/16th power, right side rim/hair light.
    SB-XX #2 set to manual mode, on $10 optical trigger 1/16th power, left side rim/hair light.

    So long as the brains of the system (F90 / SB-27) leaves the SB-27 on for longer than 1/16th duration this should work.

    The 27 will fire, the 800 will see the 27 and fire in unison, the $10 triggers will see those two and fire in unison, the F90 will be quantifying all the light coming in, the two SB-XXs will finish their 1/16th job, the 800 and 27 will continue, the F90 will quench the 27, the 800 will see the 27 quenched and stop itself.

    I don't think these dumb slaves are as likely to work as backdrop lights because then they will be contributing a much more significant percentage of the total exposure and the odds of them running longer than the controlled strobes is higher.

    Posted 2 years ago #
  2. studio460

    preferred member
    Joined: May '10
    Posts: 1,231

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    Testing123 said:
    If you add a second and third DUMB slave (some $10 optical triggers) they should work and be counted so long as they provide an insignificant part of the total light and are set in manual mode with a duration shorter than the SB-27 and SB-800 will have.

    Example:
    SB-27 on camera in (film)TTL mode.
    SB-800 as key through beauty dish on face.
    Dark background.
    SB-XX set to manual mode, on $10 optical trigger 1/16th power, right side rim/hair light.
    SB-XX #2 set to manual mode, on $10 optical trigger 1/16th power, left side rim/hair light.

    So long as the brains of the system (F90 / SB-27) leaves the SB-27 on for longer than 1/16th duration this should work.

    Thanks for your post, Testing. Yes, I used to do exactly that with my pile of cheap VariPowered Vivitar 283s, my Nikon SB-800, and an SC-29 back in the film days. The old Vivitar 283 (now discontinued) was cheap, powerful, and effective. A bunch of dumb strobes, and a handful of $10 optical slaves used to go a long way. Too bad pre-flashes make dumb strobes useless now in CLS set-ups

    Posted 2 years ago #
  3. studio460

    preferred member
    Joined: May '10
    Posts: 1,231

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    NikoDoby said:
    Buy an F6 and be done with it boy . . .

    Well, I followed your sage advice, Niko. I am now "done" with it.

    Posted 2 years ago #

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