D7000 MB-D11 Grip Drains Battery Overnight??

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D7000 MB-D11 Grip Drains Battery Overnight??

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monty11

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Joined: Mar '09
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banhuk said:
At the time I ordered the grip, I didn't realise it was non genuine. I now know that it non genuine as I paid approx $170 and the genuine is approx $300. I have requested a refund or a genuine nikon replacement.

And it didn't strike you as odd that you paid almost half the retail price for the grip?
If the price makes you go "WOW", then this is already enough cause to turn it down. The only option for a genuin part to be 50% cheaper is if it has been stolen.

I went to the eGlobal site and searched for MB-D11 and you can clearly see that the Nikon grip one costs double compared to the iLion one. Next time when you are buying something take a timeout, cool down and check if everything is in order ... for example that you were not looking at LiIon but indeed at iLion ;)

Posted 2 years ago #
casperwb

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so, is it safe to say that if you use non Nikon equipment on a Nikon camera, and you have problems,you should not blame the camera.

lenses, grips, flashes etc.

Posted 2 years ago #
iris chrome

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casperwb said:
so, is it safe to say that if you use non Nikon equipment on a Nikon camera, and you have problems,you should not blame the camera.

Maybe... what if my Tokina 11-16mm (one of my all time favorite lenses btw) does not work properly with my D7000 for example? Is it the camera's fault or the lens' fault?

Now Tokina most likely would have a higher degree of quality control than an unknown third party battery grip manufacturer, although not necessarily, however it doesn't mean that the fault automatically falls on the non-nikon equipment. The camera itself could be malfunctioning.

Posted 2 years ago #
frankie439

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JDHoop, I was having the same exact problem. I was going crazy trying to figure out how nikon could put out a product with such a significant defect. Yesterday morning, when I woke up, the answer slapped me in the face. Before I tell you what the problem is, I bet you put your camera lcd-screen-side-down, lens up, right? So as not to have your camera rest on an angle with pressure on the lens mount, right? Well it occurred to me that with the camera resting in this position, the "joystick" would be constantly depressed, engaged and thus constantly drawing current from the battery. Last night, I put my fully-charged camera down, flash-side up, and what do you know? Full battery in the morning. Such a stupid solution, but glad I figured it out. Good luck. (If that isn't your problem, sorry I got your hopes up)

Posted 1 year ago #
iris chrome

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frankie439 said:
Well it occurred to me that with the camera resting in this position, the "joystick" would be constantly depressed, engaged and thus constantly drawing current from the battery.

Welcome to the forum frankie439 but wouldn't that be true only if you keep your camera powered-on throughout the night?

Posted 1 year ago #
banhuk

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iris chrome said:
Out of curiosity banhuk, did you try using the battery grip without any batteries in it? I know this wouldn't be a solution for your problem but I was just interested in knowing. Thank you.

Sorry for the late reply..

Yes the battery grip still drained the main D7000 battery without a battery in the grip itself. I didn't end up sending the grip back to Hong Kong (eGlobal), even though they were happy to refund my money.

I decided to take the grip to a local (well known and respected) camera repair shop. After a day with the grip, the repairer rang me and explained that this particular after market grip was missing some circuitry that the original nikon grip has. Basically this circuitry talks to the D7000 and shuts off the power going to and from the grip when the D7000 is off or when the screen is off, etc.. The guy was really good. He didn't end up charging me, although he did offer to put in a little switch for me on the grip so that I could turn it off manually whenever I needed to. I didn't bother though. I have actually decided to keep the grip as it works perfectly. I just detach it from the camera at night. This way I get quite a few days standby with it.

I have been very happy with the camera. Hardly taken a bad shot in auto mode. I have done some time lapse shots as well using the D7000's built in software. Brilliant!

Also, I picked up a non genuine infra red trigger remote from ebay for about $2 (including the battery). Best $2 i have ever spent! Also, purchased a YN467 Speedlite for $80. It works in TTL mode on the D7000 and I am so happy I didn't buy the original Nikon. All of my lenses so far have been nikon. I picked up the 70 - 300 VR AFS f4.5 - 5.6 for about $500, but I mainly use the 35 f1.8. Am thinking about getting the tokina 11-16mm and I might even give the kenko X2 teleconverter a try since it is fairly inexpensive at the moment.

Thanks again for all the replies. When I start using this camera more and more, I guess I will end up buying an original nikon grip :-)

ciao
Steve

Posted 1 year ago #
lbaraldi

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Joined: Dec '11
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Rummer said:
I've had the MB-D11 for the past six months on my D7000. About a week ago, the connection between the camera and the grip started to go "loose". The shutter button works on the grip, but neither the two control dials nor the AF selectors work. Occasionally, when i press the grip hard into the camera, the grip would "connect" for a few seconds. The battery inside the grip isn't being recognized either. I'm going to send the grip back to NIkon, but hopefully, the problem isn't on the camera end.

The same happened to me! Exactly six months after buying the grip!
Mine is a generic, MK-d7000. manufactured by Meike.
I spent days looking for a solution on google... As I have not found a solution, I decided to take apart and look for some defect.

The only "defect" that I found was:
At the base of the connector has a flat-cable and a piece of metal composed of two smaller parts (one is soldered directly to the connector and the other has a black wire welding).

Apparently these two parts should have mechanical contact at their ends to be ground between the connector and the camera. Looking with a magnifying glass, could see that there was no contact.

I released the bolt that holds the piece with the welded black wire. Gently I let the piece at the base of the socket connector. With pliers I bent a little to the end.

Preventively wiped the finishing of all flat-cables and main-board with isopropyl alcohol

I assembled the piece of metal in the connector. Assembled and tested the device!

To my happiness, it returned to work perfectly!

I have no pictures
Sorry my English

Hope this helps

Posted 1 year ago #
Croket_71

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Joined: Dec '11
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Hello All,

I have a question for all of you with the MB-D11 grip. I just upgraded from my D90 to the D7000. The D90 battery grip (MB-D80) it was able to hold 2 battery packs (EN-EL3e)side by side. My question is does the MB-D11 also hold 2 battery packs or does one battery go in the camera and the other in the grip?

Posted 1 year ago #
golf007sd

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Joined: Nov '10
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Croket_71 said:
Hello All,

I have a question for all of you with the MB-D11 grip. I just upgraded from my D90 to the D7000. The D90 battery grip (MB-D80) it was able to hold 2 battery packs (EN-EL3e)side by side. My question is does the MB-D11 also hold 2 battery packs or does one battery go in the camera and the other in the grip?

The MB-D11 kit allows for two types: One option is to get another battery just like the one in the camera...thus you will have one in the body and one in the grip. Your other option is to use 6 AA batteries that fit in the speciale module that come with the MB-D11 kit.

VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT BUY ONE of these kits from and OEM/Ebay...they are all FAKE and do not work as intended. MAKE SURE you get yours from Amazon, Adorama, B&H or J&R!!!!

Posted 1 year ago #
Croket_71

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Thanks for replying, here's where I get confused, with the MB-D80 I was able to pop out both batteries, charged them, then pop them back in.. If I'm understanding this correctly with the MB-D11 I'll have to remove the grip every time in order to charge the the battery inside the camera?
If that's the case wouldn't that be putting excessive wear on the both the camera and grip contacts?

Posted 1 year ago #
zoegirltx

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Joined: Jan '12
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Since my issues IS NOT related to the battery grip, I tried posting this but was told to post it here instead...

Had my D7000 & 2 nikon batteries for over a year without any problems- I actually think the camera gets excellent battery use.

In the last 2 weeks, I've picked up my camera several times to find it completely dead- not even showing a remaining frame count in the "off" position.

Trying to sort through if it is 1 battery or both batteries (I think both get fully drained).
Trying to figure out if it will drain in both the "on" and "off" position. I know for sure it will drain overnight in the "on" position (not sure if it will do it every night though).

UPDATE- Although my meter setting is set to 4/6 seconds on the c2 menu option, it appears that the camera is still metering.
This morning I left it in the "on" position and came home around noon and half the battery is dead. Looking through the viewfinder, I can see the meter, ss, "lo" and the flashing lightening bolt for the flash are lit up in the viewfinder, even several minutes after I have last depressed the shutter.
So it appears the camera thinks it is stuck with the meter on.
Will a hard reboot reset everything? at least worth a try?

Happened again last night- no VR lens, no eyefi card, no battery grip.

Any ideas? THANKS!

Posted 1 year ago #
adamz

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Joined: Mar '09
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hard reboot is always a good try.
BTW: welcome to the forum Zoe

Posted 1 year ago #
ovendoor

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Joined: Jan '12
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Your comment is very interesting, I'm here because of the same problem. I am convinced that my batteries discharge more quickly when my after market grip is attached using either 2700 ma batteries or my spare EN-l battery! I accept that buying NIKON original may be the best solution, but I have purchased quite a few non-Nikon grips for different cameras (Nikon) without mis-hap.
I am wondering whether the "shutter" lock on the grip also act as an on/off button for the grip? I am here playing with it and notice that when off (locked)? i.e white line does not line up, the joystick will not select focus points so the system appears to be "Off"? I do notice however that even in this state, the camera can still read the battery condition of the grip. When my spare battery is charged fully, I will add to grip and leave the shutter lock "locked" and see if this could be the cause of the problem! Anybody already tried this?
Regards Nick

Posted 1 year ago #
ovendoor

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Joined: Jan '12
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Reporting back! Both batteries were charged after my thoughts in the post above. Shutter button on grip was turned off (locked). No Drainage at all (even after taking ten photos of the local squirrel this morning). Will top up batteries for a fair test and leave Shutter button on grip on. Will report back on Monday!

Posted 1 year ago #
scoti49

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Joined: Dec '11
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I purchase a non Nikon battery pack on eBay (link-delite in Hong Kong),it worked well , my D90 one does too.

I will try the above test later ,but I had no battery problems..

The problem I had ,was the battery door clip hing broke ,I still cant get a replacement clip from the sellers, and too fiddly to repair myself ...

As with my D80 D90 and now this D7000, a spare battery in the pocket and Im taking well over 3-4 thousand shots (D7000 airshow shots).
Mostly continuous shooting, I can fill a SD card(s) real fast .

I found the battery pack to be bulky and heavy and not for me ..

Good for tripod portrait shooting, but I don't do that style of Photography much now .

Its been mentioned that Nikon battery packs are a poorly fitting as is the after market units ...
My non genuine is a bit loose, compared with Nikon's (from the Camera Shop,)it also was a poor fit ,but now it spends its days in its packaging box ...

Its a bit late and I don't get time to get here often so,, Happy New Year everybody

Posted 1 year ago #