Mike Gunter said:
It's a pretty awful homemade dub of a dub. I don't have the original. It was a long time ago. I don't recall if it was printed in color.
Awesome shot, Mike!
where there’s smoke there’s forum fire
That's a cool shot, Studio460. What lens did you shoot with?
Mike, for a shot that was taken pre-photoshop and probably edited in the darkroom, that's amazing.
Pale rider and Correlli, those are really nicely done too.
Thanks, I had a lot of fun wandering around Leadville, Colorado that night. Love still and crystal clear night air!
I never go out shooting night exposures without a long lasting Cuban , a good cigar cutter and a reliable lighter ...
@Regulator75: really nice shots!
@studio460: good shots as well. I really like the airport one (nice colors)
@Mike: cool image. When you took a roll of moon images, did you write down where in the image the moon was placed so you can do in-camera double exposures?
@Pale Rider: very good too!
What I would like to know: how do you guys set the white balance for these shots? Currently I just set my camera on flash WB (as this is what I would get from slides) and adjust later in Aperture. But I am not sure if the selected WB does have any impact on the metering. After all, the matrix metering is done with an RGB sensor...
studio460 said:
Thanks! I assume you mean this one:That was shot with a AF DC-Nikkor 105mm f/2.0D on a D7000.
Yes, that shot. I was going to say, if you were shooting with a kit lens then the chromatic abberation might be explainable.
But that's good glass there. Perhaps just the design?

D700, 3", F2.8, 24-70mm. Not that sharp. moon & reflections.


ISO 3200, 200mm, F2.8, 1/80"
I have been itching to find out more about night photography, particularly cityscapes where a larger DOF is required, before I make a trip to Tokyo next month.
I have been some great looking pictures here, some even taken handheld at wide apertures, yet with still adequate sharpness!
I am wondering.. to optimize DOF and sharpness with night photos what do you recommend using as an aperture, and where should I set the focus too? I don't understand the technique behind this. Even some of the sharpest photos I've seen in this thread were taken at f/ 7. Wouldn't 11 or 12 give more DOF?
Also in the handheld, wide aperture cases, where should I set the focus?
Please explain experts!
Thanks!
Mike

D300 & 18-135mm - 2 or 3 frame mini panorama . Any need to say the athlete is a statue :-) ?

D300 & 18-135mm - Single shot long exposure f22 - 20 seconds
Not as easy as it looks, but too long to explain here why it wasn't :-).The background is hazy due to cloud of smoke from cannon after firing.

D300 & 18-135mm - 2 or 3 frame mini panorama
mikeo21 said:
I am wondering.. to optimize DOF and sharpness with night photos what do you recommend using as an aperture, and where should I set the focus too? I don't understand the technique behind this. Even some of the sharpest photos I've seen in this thread were taken at f/ 7. Wouldn't 11 or 12 give more DOF?Also in the handheld, wide aperture cases, where should I set the focus?
f8 will give you enough DOF ( and also the maximum performance from your lens )as you will probably be shooting night scenes from a distance . Everything will be sharp anyways after a few meters all the way to infinity - if you are shooting wide angles.
I suggest you have a search for the subject "hyperfocal" to have a better grasp of the theory and maybe for " online DOF calculator" for some fun afterwards. There are a few simple methods for maximum DOF focusing but it might take a bit too long trying to put it in words here .
If they made these darn G lenses with DoF scales on, it is an moments work to set it to hyperfocal distance but they don't GRRR.
To explain it briefly with the DoF scale: You have two lines coming from the aperture numbers on the lens - one going towards the close focus end of the focus scale abnd one going to the infinity end. Set the lens to f8 (say) then turn the focus until the line from the infinity side of the f8 aperture on the lens is on infinity and then everything from the minimum distance the infinity line is on right out to infinity is sharp. Seemples.
Without the DoF scale, you have to look the hyperfocal distance up and remember it for your favourite apertures and focal lengths....
spraynpray said:
If they made these darn G lenses with DoF scales on, it is an moments work to set it to hyperfocal distance but they don't GRRR.
Which brings me to thinking about a new utility that may be added to oncoming DSLRs. Considering the camera is able to gather all data needed for DOF calculation ( focal length,focus distance,aperture ), it can't be too hard to incorporate a DOF calculator visible in viewfinder :-)). Even just a firmware might be enough to run it in the menu.
I was doing some googling about this and ran into the buzz word hyperfocal focusing and its very interesting stuff. definitely anew concept for me to explore. I can maybe put a couple of charts for my 35 1.8 on my iphone to use in the field. Either way, I will try to get as prepared as possible for Tokyo!
thanks for the advice guys! I need to come aroudn here more often :)
Gorgeous night shots, everyone!
Paperman said:
Which brings me to thinking about a new utility that may be added to oncoming DSLRs. Considering the camera is able to gather all data needed for DOF calculation ( focal length,focus distance,aperture ), it can't be too hard to incorporate a DOF calculator visible in viewfinder :-)). Even just a firmware might be enough to run it in the menu.
I agree. I think Nikon has really under-utilized the data available in 'D' lenses.
mikeo21 said:
I was doing some googling about this and ran into the buzz word hyperfocal focusing and its very interesting stuff. definitely anew concept for me to explore. I can maybe put a couple of charts for my 35 1.8 on my iphone to use in the field. Either way, I will try to get as prepared as possible for Tokyo!
Kinda off-topic, but allow me to reply to this post real quick: my two favorite depth-of-field apps (which include hyperfocal distance), for iPhone/IPod touch are:
1. Simple DoF $0.00 (excellent free app!)
2. PhotoCalc $2.99 (worth every penny!)
When I remember to bring my iPod touch with me when I go out shooting, it's mainly for just these two apps. I like both for different reasons. Simple DoF has an immediately interpretable graphical representation of your focus depths. While PhotoCalc shows distance in both feet and INCHES (and, includes a handful of other useful photo info). Most depth-of-field apps (including Simple DoF) don't show inches, only decimal portions of feet (e.g., "6.7 feet").
mikeo21 said:
I was doing some googling about this and ran into the buzz word hyperfocal focusing and its very interesting stuff. definitely anew concept for me to explore.
Can be really useful as it turns your DSLR into a really fast point'n'shoot but with DSLR advantages. Never miss those crashes at the motor race again and no missed focus.
Don't forget to turn AF off...... ;^/
One thing I find harder to do at night is to properly focus. If there is plenty of well-lid building, it is surely easier but it’s a different story if most of the scene is dark. From time to time, I think the shot would be sharp while the focus was completely off. AF is sometime useful still. And there is Night and Night.
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