where there’s smoke there’s forum fire
spraynpray said:
All good stuff. Would any of you good bird guys care to share what settings you use for AF and exposure metering?
once again, general rule for me and shooting animals: center point AF + AF-C or AF-S (that depends on what I'm shooting, if there's a lot of movement than AF-C, if I can predict the location than AF-S - I also use manual override very often)
As for AF settings, it comes down to what kind of bird you are shooting. Small birds almost never stop moving, even when they are resting on a branch or the ground, so AF-C is a must. I use the AF-ON button on my D300, rather than AF-S for subjects that are not moving much. In fact I never use AF-S for birds, since you never know when they are going to take off! Using AF-S you might miss that lovely lift off shot! I only manually focus when I am purposefully shooting through thick brush, or if AF is hunting a lot. To be honest I'd have to look at all my settings, since I have a shooting bank dedicated to shooting birds on my D300 and don't look at them up very often as a result.
On the D300, as long as I am using one of the cross type AF points I never have focus issues. I do like that I can use the other AF points, and unless the light is poor I don't have much trouble using all 51 points. I normally shoot in single point AF mode, but I use dynamic AF when I am shooting birds in flight. If I am using a lower and model (D3100, D90), I wouldn't use any point other than the center point as adamz recommended.
As for metering modes, I use center weighted average and spot metering most often. Center weighted metering is especially important for birds in flight, as matrix metering varies too much as you pan. You want to meter the bird, as that is your center subject, unless you have specific needs to do otherwise.
Sweet tips guys, thanks.
Good photography can't make up for bad field craft, when it comes to birding and the such its a game of to half's, approaching your subject then taking the photograph.
I know for me the first part is harder than the second, whilst long lenses are great; getting close to your subject cannot be made up by the use of long lenses.
Remembering simple things like approaching slowly, keeping your silhouette small and making no noise are great ways of getting closer. Patients is something that a good wildlife photographer should always have!
My birds are all metal (Sometimes wood and fabric) but the principles are the same, at least for air displays.
I have tried monopod and gimbal head but I do prefer hand held. My gear is D300 + TC 1,4 + 70-200VR, used at center-weighted exp. and continuous AF. Shutter speed varies with the subject. It all depends on what you're looking for. In your case, it will be a choice of blurred wings or frozen ones, but generally you will need to have the background as blurred as you can, which means very slow speeds and panning. Get the eyes as sharp as you can, the rest is secondary.
Well, good luck ! :o)
I always shoot moving animals and people in the S mode (shutter speed being at least 1.5-2x focal length used). Most often I use AF-C, single spot AF & ISO according to need.
>> Remembering simple things like approaching slowly, keeping your silhouette small and making no noise are great ways of getting closer.
Great advice. Remember too that wildlife often makes better use of their senses than we do. Approaching slowly and silently will do you little good if they can smell you coming, so wind direction is something else to pay attention to.
Shooting from a blind can help but remember that birds aren't stupid. Most of the time it's recommended to set up a blind a few days in advance to give the birds time to get used to it... this does work, but if the birds are there when you enter the blind, they know darned well you're inside even if you stay there all day. On the other hand, most birds don't count very well... so if you can't enter the blind while it's still dark, just have someone walk to the blind with you and then have them leave alone, most of the time birds will assume the blind is empty.
If you don't have a blind, or need to move from place to place, camouflaged clothing helps a great deal. I've found that a lightweight 3D leaf suit ($50-$100) is about the cheapest and most effective way to cover yourself. Most are comprised of mesh camo fabric with leaves sewn on... this breaks up your silhouette more effectively than plain camo, but is lighter and cooler than a ghilli suit. I also like to wear a turkey vest (rather than a photo vest) to hold my gear because most of them have drop down pads in the back to sit or kneel on. Top the outfit off with camo gloves and a facemask, and you can blend in very nicely:
http://bhovey.com/Photos/PhotoPages/08_11_OddsAndEnds/slides/DSC_9682a.jpg
Most wildlife is highly sensitive to movement so even if you are well-camouflaged, approach carefully. If you are stalking one individual, try to keep a tree or bush between you and the bird as you get closer. It sometimes helps to move when his head is turned but the angle of vision varies by bird so do some research. Keep your eyes moving... you have to not only watch your subject but also other wildlife that might get spooked and start a chain reaction of mass retreat. You also have to keep looking where you are stepping so as to avoid noise. Going out after a rain helps, leaves won't crunch as much. Wind can help mask your noise too, as well as creating leaf motion that can mask your movement, so choosing a breezy day or waiting for little gusts to disturb the leaves can help a great deal.
Pay attention to light... it seems obvious, but if you approach behind a tree or bush, favor the shadow side when you peek out to take your photo.
Depending on the area of the country or time of year, snakes might be a concern. Being quiet while stalking a subject is one thing, but most of the time you'll probably want to make some noise while moving from place to place... most snakes are shy creatures and will retreat if they hear you coming.
Finally, don't be too single-minded in your focus. Watch for other subjects like flowers and insects that might be right at your feet. Scan the skies too.
bhoveyga said:
>>
make some noise while moving from place to place... most snakes are shy creatures and will retreat if they hear you coming.
Snakes do not hear. They can sense ground vibrations, so stomp your feet when moving, but for example, yelling does not help at all with snakes. Yelling can keep bears at a safe distance.
Godless writes:
>> Snakes do not hear. They can sense ground vibrations, so stomp your feet when moving,
Duh, I knew that... my post was poorly worded, thanks for clarifying.
@ bhoveyga : Great advice I must try some of that next time. However I approach this from a slightly different direction. I assume that they know I am there and not hide the fact that I am there. I just go there often and be non threatening so that after a while they get used to me being around.
so I do things like stop when they see me and turn away and at times not look directly at them. Start looking at the "other stuff" like bugs or flowers helps(gets some macros like that) since you are intent on some other thing and they sometimes approach to see what you are "grazing".
I find in general "animal" coloured clothing is enough. so pastel browns, greens and greys seem to help the most.
Yes we in Australia do pay close attention to where we step. We have some nasty snakes. and a good pair of sturdy boots is essential. (plus protective leggings)
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