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TRIP PROBLEM IN SB900

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amir

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Joined: Jan '11
Posts: 13
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Hi

I want just little favour from urs side,i hope u must reply myself soon

I just get SB900,before some days when i was taken pictures (continuesly) in
a wedding,My sb900 was trip,suddenly I was OFF HIS THEMAMETER switch
then I was take pics again but I was dissapointed when (as usual) after take some more pics I hear
WARNING BEEP OF FLASH HEATING,due to switch off by myself light was never off but they continuely
show WARNING LIGHT and BEEPS.I just want know that

1-Suppose I off my THERMAMETER switch and I take pictures even i get warning beeps or overheating
warnig light so pls ask me that Is this harmfull for my SB900 or can i take pictures continuesly even
I get warning beeps...?

2-My another friends have also this light but they told my that they also take pics continuesly but his light
was not TRIP,they use NIKON 16-85 lens and I use NIKON 18-135 lens,we both use ISO 400 so why
his SB900 never trip....?

3-What I do for taking pictures with my SB900 continuely without TRIP OF LIGHT

4-I use 18-135 lens ,if i change lens so can i control at this TRIP poroblem...?

I hope u must guide myself in right way
thanks
amir

Posted 2 years ago #
Segura

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What is this TRIP you speak of?

1) Yes if you flash is overheating then it is a problem. The warning beeps are there for a reason. You have been warned.

2) Man we could spend all day guessing, but without knowing all your settings, lighting condition, camera, it would never be right. Have you read the manual (the flash and the camera)? My guess, you have something set wrong . . . please do yourself a favor and read the manual, they are thick for a reason, you will learn a lot and be better because of it.
But an educated guess, you were shooting a wedding with a DX camera, with slow lenses, at ISO 400. Seems like your flash was trying very hard to compensate for the lighting.

3) You don't. Impossible. The flash is dependent on the batteries, and how fast they recycle and can build a charge. What batteries were you using? How many shots? They will get drained fast since they were probably firing your flash at 1/2 power. How many pics did you take, and how many times did you change the batteries? Short answer = not enough I think. If it was overheating, then that tells me that the flash was overcompensating. Shoot at ISO 800 (hopefully you are using a D7000 or D300S).

4) If you are charging for this wedding, do whoever you are shooting for a favor and get a 17-55 f/2.8. Your customers will thank you for it. They will really really thank you if you upgrade to FX though.

Do you have some sample pics?

Posted 2 years ago #
TaoTeJared

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This is a known and is a designed item in the SB900. It does get hot shooting fast and then shuts down for a while. If you don't let it cool completely, You may get a couple of shots then it will heat up and shut down again.

Again, This happens by design per Nikon. They figure that you do not want to burn out your flash and then have to spend another $450+ for another one.

I have seen some who get only SB800s since you can override the warning or just ignore it and keep shooting. You may burn the SB800 up but as some say, "The photo I get pays for it". I know I'm not in their financial situation but more power to them.

Posted 2 years ago #
broxibear

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[+] Embed the video | Video Download Get the Flash Videos

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Posted 2 years ago #
TaoTeJared

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Good videos - I wish there was a real solution rather than work-arounds.

Posted 2 years ago #
amir

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Joined: Jan '11
Posts: 13
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Dear mr segura

So thanks for quick reply from urs side,I have
NIKON D200 BODY
NIKON 18-135 LENS
I ALWAY SET MY ISO AT 400
I USE CAMLION 2100 ALWAY READY(NI-MH)CELLS

As all professionals I taken my portraits through BOUNCE light or SLIGHTLY TILT HEAD, I never ever taken pictures with DIRECT FLASH LIGHT

When i was taken pics with my SB-800,I was very happy.After waiting for just seconds my those litht was ready for another shot but in SB900 ,my this light was alway HEATUP,I am extremmely in depression cause i cant effort FAST AND EXPENSIVE LENSES,How about NIKON 18-105 VR LENS...?pls just guide me that if i shift at 18-105 lens or if I use NIKON D300S so can this resolve my problem....?
thanks
amir

Posted 2 years ago #
Drab

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A - Still not enough details. You will be unable to provide enough details as to why your friend does not experience the same problem as you. The simple fact is that (I'm going to regret saying this) unless your unit is defective thermal warning / shutdown is directly proportional to the amount of strobe light you use over a unit of time.

B - Bouncing and tilting the head mean less direct light, thus more power needed to achieve any given exposure. Remember (or google) the inverse-square law and think about how that necessitates more power as the light path becomes longer (through bouncing).

C - The SB-900's output and speed advances come at the expense of more heat build-up. This has been the path Nikon has been on for a long time. My 28's blow bulbs much more frequently than my 26's, simply because the heat dissipation area decreased while the power didn't.

D - The lens and body have no impact on this issue. I see some reading in your future.

Posted 2 years ago #
TaoTeJared

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The lens and body have no impact on this issue. +1 Changing either will not do much to help.

I hate to say it, but there is no easy solution but to use a second flash.

I do throw on my SB-600 or just go without flash until the unit fully cools down. (About 10-20 minutes - although I never really timed it.) That is the easiest solution.

Posted 2 years ago #
Mike Gunter

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TaoTeJared said:
The lens and body have no impact on this issue. +1 Changing either will not do much to help.

I hate to say it, but there is no easy solution but to use a second flash.

I do throw on my SB-600 or just go without flash until the unit fully cools down. (About 10-20 minutes - although I never really timed it.) That is the easiest solution.

Hi,

For me, the easiest answer is to have a pair of SB900s and switch them out. I have 2 of the SB900s, but I also have 2 of the SB800s I use for event work, too.

The very best solution I think works best every time is to get 2 of the SB900s and switch them out before the heating becomes a problem. You can shoot as rapid as you want, any ISO or using any of the flashes automatic optional modes available to you, too. You'll have two flashes for some setups, a real boon for some portrait work and CLS work. I am suggesting it will mean some additional light modification expense (you'll want to _rapidly_ switch out the light kit), but the payoff is keen for a lot of other photographic work.

Segura is 'suggesting' that you can up the game by shooting at higher ISO and wider aperture, which will prolong the wait, but the SB900's will eventually heat up if you have a lot pictures to take. His points are valid, but are based on how he shoots (and perhaps how he thinks everyone should ;-) ), not how everyone does.

In the fullness of time, overheating with the SB900 will just happen. One can turn off the switches (warning and heat turnoff), but I don't think that seems like a good idea. Others have tried it without reporting consequences, but...

Hope this helps and my best,

Mike

Posted 2 years ago #
Segura

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Find a more efficient bounce. Are you just using the built in white card? You are having a lot of wasted light with that. Look at a lightsphere or a super scoop to throw more of the light.

Upgrade the camera from the D200 to a D90. Pickup used, the cost difference will be minimal. According to DXO Mark, a D200 at ISO 583 looks the same as the D90 at ISO 977. The gain is almost a full stop. Real world, you should be able to use ISO 800 instead of ISO 400. Your flash will have to compensate less since you have the extra stop.

Those would be the easiest upgrades to help out.

It would be nice to know what your exposure is, and what your flash intensity is.

Posted 2 years ago #
JorPet

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broxibear,
Not sure that video knows what they are talking about as they are backwards on everything. Rechargeables outperform Alkaline in every way that the video says that the alkaline will be better. In fact I went to rechargeables due to Nikon explicitly stating that they will perform better in their flashes.

Eneloop shows that their batteries will simply stop working at voltages below 1.1v. When I put them (and my Duracell rechargeables) in to the charger they are normally still showing 1.25v or higher. That is after some 900 shots on the MB-D10 and the flash about the same after 2-300 shots.

Posted 2 years ago #
Testing123

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JorPet said:
Eneloop shows that their batteries will simply stop working at voltages below 1.1v. When I put them (and my Duracell rechargeables) in to the charger they are normally still showing 1.25v or higher.

Don't confuse loaded and unloaded voltages.

Posted 2 years ago #
broxibear

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You might be right JorPet, maybe the the newer rechargables weren't out when that video was filmed?
I use Energizer Ultimate Lithium and they work fine...I throw them away after the shoot and use fresh ones the next time.

Posted 2 years ago #
amir

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Joined: Jan '11
Posts: 13
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pls advice me that which METZ or another company flash who i can use but they can work perfect with my D200 (ttl or work great when i bounce him)
plssssssss advice
thanks

Posted 2 years ago #
adamz

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Joined: Mar '09
Posts: 3,461
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as in one topic You state You have sb-900 and in another that You have sb-800, I'm gonna close this. please continue the discussion in the other thread: http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=3094

Posted 2 years ago #

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TRIP PROBLEM IN SB900

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