I know I asked this in the other thread, but perhaps it's more appropriate here- how hard/easy is it to get prints from slide film?
What film do you use?
(43 posts) (20 voices)-
Posted 2 years ago #
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Just prints? Or develop? Not too many places develop E-6 film. You'll most likely have to send it out in the mail to get it processed. Or you can cross-process it. Which means you can develop your slide film as C-41 film which is the common type of film they develop at 1hour photo labs like CVS or Walgreens. Depending on which film you use your colors will be off or overly saturated. Lots of people like that psychedelic look and always have all of their slide film developed in C-41 chemicals. Some E-6 film is a bit more tolerant to cross-processing and the only difference you'll see is stronger contrast and not much if any color shifts.
As for getting prints from slides not too many places do that either. You'll have to mail your slides to a prolab. I just scan my slides and then take my digital files to CVS for prints. You can get prints easy that way.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Prints as in 3x5s, I don't really print larger than that because I've really only developed 2 rolls of film at a lab.
I didn't know you could develop slide film like regular film, I thought they ended up like slides like Kodachrome does, which is why only a few places do Kodachrome.
Good to know that sort of stuff.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Kodak Ektar 100. You really have to try hard to see the grain in this negative film. May not be ideal for portraiture, the colors are just that intense. I really have to try Kodak's Portra films. I have shot a roll of Fuji Velvia 50 but I haven't developed it yet. I have seen scans of this that are incredible though.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Well, up to about 6 months or so, I've been using up my supplies of generic C41 film (which actually turns out to be Kodak gold rebranded) with ok results. Now, I'm switching over my film shooting to E6- so far I've shot the 3 of the main fuji films (velvia 100f, provia 100f, and astia) and I've gotten interesting results from all of them, provided you use them properly. I have to agree with some of the earlier statements about slides- there's nothing that can equate the look of the slide, especially medium format or larger. It's not just about the colors and the exposure latitude, there's something about it that makes it seem more real, and more sharp than any print or display I've seen.
Now a question for all you B+W aficionados out there, what films do you use and why? I'm curious because I'll be taking a B+W film course over the next while, so I'd like to know what other people are using.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I have tried to love Ilford but just can't :( I really like Tmax for black and whites just nice and simple, although I do love the grain of other films. I like provia for slide as well and Velvia 100. I haven't been able to pull off Velvia 50 over the years, as its too contrasty for me and lots of failed attempts with it unfortunately.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Before my first DSLR (D70), I used to shoot Fuji color negative. Then, I switched to Kodak's "consumer" line of high-speed color negative stocks. Now, I'm really only planning to shoot film in black and white negative. I have a "brick" of Tri-X, just waiting to be exposed!
Posted 2 years ago # -
Tri-X or T-Max?
I forgot where I asked this before. If you want edgy, gritty, grain, but with high acutance, it's Tri-X, right? Didn't some complain that T-Max film grain is too "soft?" I know someone's favorite here is Tri-X rated at 800, developed in Rodinal (used to be mine, too), but I have to process commercially, so no Rodinal.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Even reading descriptions, it's hard to know how each film will react to all the situations you'd use it in. I'd say to try shooting a few rolls of each in similar situations and see what produces a better look for you.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Well after my experience with the supermoon I have this sudden urge to put down my digital camera for a minute and get better with film. I over-exposed almost every shot of the moon, I used the meter in the camera both on matrix and center weighted and got the same results (I probably should have tried spot metering but oops). I believe part of my problem is just getting used to the film I am shooting with. I bracketed my shots with a stop under and over to try and get something but it wasn't enough. The shots I took before the event were not overexposed (this was me waiting my hour because of my stupidity, read the supermoon post if you want to know more on that one).
Way back in the day when I took a photography course in college we shot B&W film for our projects. Most of the class time was in the lab developing our own film. They wanted us to use the film in the bookstore, which I will say was cheaper on campus than going to the local camera store. I looked on Adorama's website and reading the ratings, a lot of films say they are being discontinued but Adorama must have some remaining inventory left. Is there a way to find out what films will be made for a while and not just some overstocked stuff laying around.
I just want to get a good film that will be around for a while so I don't have a learning curve to deal with next time I get my film camera out. I will shoot print or slides, prints would be way easier to deal since I have no one local to develop slides. But, if I am going to shoot film I want to do it right and I am willing to send my film off to be developed.
I realize that if your crystal ball is anything like mine its broke, but someone must have a better idea than me what is happening with film (like people that shoot it all the time). One other point that might help is how easy are some of these to find (like in a pinch, or do I have to order 4 months in advance)
some stuff I have looked at:
Print film:
Fujicolor Superia Reala 100
Kodak Ektar 100Slide film:
Fujichrome Velvia RVP 50
Fujichrome Velvia RVP 100F
Fujichrome Provia RDP III 100F
Kodak Ektachrome E100VS
Kodak Elite Chrome EB 100
Kodak Elite Chrome Extra Color EBX 100
Kodak Ektachrome E100GSo you get a feel of the purpose and direction that might suite me best, most of my work will be landscape/nature stuff, car shows (cars with wild paint jobs that are highly colorful), architectural work, and a bit of micro along with all this. The occasional person will appear but not planning weddings or "people" events. If the work I do does not fall under this category then it would be action shots, things like NASCAR or even water skiing. I doubt I would use film for this but if I got enough light why not.
I will probably buy like 3 or 4 rolls of each because everyone has there own "taste" of what they like but if someone can point me out in the right direction it would be appreciated.
Posted 2 years ago # -
To get properly exposed shots of the moon, you should be using spot metering and nothing else. Alternatively, you can use the same exposure as you would for daylight, as the moon is essentially an object lit by direct sunlight.
As far as film types go, if you want slide film, I'd go for any of the fuji films (not astia is you're not shooting people). Each one has a slightly different color response, so you'd have to try them all to see what you like the best.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I tried the sunny 16 rule as well for a couple but should have shot way more than one roll of 24 to get real results. Thanks for the input, I probably will shoot slides but I have been thinking and might just have to shoot some local drug store stuff so in a pinch I can get decent results (or at least be familiar with what can happen).
Posted 2 years ago # -
Hi All. @ Scobysmac: I own an use a F5 and some high res Nikkor glass and although I could shoot moon photos on film I just don't. I have "Super" Moon images shot on D90 with the 70-300VR biased on -4.0 which are quite exceptional. Although I have correspondents who photographed this large perigee moon on the horizon as I did, mine are still measurably better than theirs. First I am shooting in an area not troubled by too much extraneous light. I did notice with great interest that those images I did not even crop slightly as I usually do. The moon was maybe 14% larger but it was enough bigger with 300 (about 450 with full frame). I also shot it with the D700 on 300mm but prefer the APS picture.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Scoobysmak, those films are easy to order online but not easy to find locally. Ektar, E100G, Velvia 50, and Velvia 100F can be found at most well stocked local shops. Ektar 100 is a really good film as is E100G and E100VS. I'm not a big fan of Fuji films but I do like Pro800Z and some of of their Astia films.
You can also cross-process your slide film where they develop C41 film. Kodak's E6 films hold up fairly well to cross processing. I don't get crazy color shifts like I do with Fuji's film. Contrast isn't that bad either. I get my E6 slide film developed at Walgreens in an hour. You won't get positive slides(obviously) but the negatives are very useable. I pay for the negatives only and then do my own scanning.
If you want a good all round film then I recommend the new Portra films. Portra 400 is an especially forgiving film.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I used T-MAX 100 for a long time. I have not put any rolls through in a long time also. When I say long time it is relative though=) I know some of you have forgotten more then I know. Or have at least had a camera longer.
~CheersPosted 2 years ago # -
Well, I just ordered 20 rolls of good 'ole Tri-X. Haven't decided if I'm rating it at 400 or 800 yet (for an upcoming shoot with a model). I'll probably try both, I guess--but film ain't cheap! Going for that gritty, textured look.
Posted 2 years ago # -
If you rate it differently then the box don't forget to tell the lab to push or pull. Unless you are doing your own developing.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Good point niko. That could make for a sad day.
Posted 2 years ago #
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