I like it, swame. The lens isn't perfect, but it's fun. That's a tricky scene you decided to start your lens test with!
By the way, when did you get so smart, tcole? ;-)
35mm 1.8G related questions...
(35 posts) (16 voices)-
Posted 2 years ago #
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Lol I don't think I have made too many poor posts ;)
Thanks for the vote of confidence there guys :(
Posted 2 years ago # -
Thanks everyone for their views and suggestions.
Even though it is a faster lens, with a less f-number, high iso (both increasing shutter speed), in a "low light condition" a tripod is required?
I'm yet to try portraits/landscapes with low f-number. Let me work on that.
- Also not to go for a close up shot in a low light which could cause camera shake?
- Should I turn off the in-camera NR?
- Any other suggestions?
- Any ideal f-number for portraits, that could blur the background? I know it depends on the distance from the object. :)Still learning the camera..!!!! Thanks again to everybody. :)
Posted 2 years ago # -
It looks like you just need to get the feel for your camera.
With good light (especially natural) the 35mm 1.8 is incredibly sharp.
Play around with the camera and after awhile, you'll know what makes good and bad pictures as you get a feel for your equipment.
Some tips:
Natural light is always good.
Try to use a low ISO as possible, but with sufficient shutter speed. With good technique you should be able to take close up shots with 1/40 shutter speed.Leave the NR on, but remember that high ISO's will degrade image quality. I dont like to use over 1600 in the d90.
The lens is not sharpest at 1.8 aperture, but it is still razor sharp. I always try to stop down the aperture a bit from wide open if there is enough light.
By getting close to your subject, and stopping down a bit, you can get a good out of focus background, yet the entire person's face in focus. I do shoot the 35mm 1.8 lens at 1.8 a lot, and still achieve spectacular results.
Try going outside and taking pictures. Ideal lighting is at the beginning and end of the day.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I will add that if you have used lenses with the VR then it gives you a false sense of security when shooting. After using the VR where you can shoot fairly slow shutter speeds and still get great outcomes. It will take a little more patience with this lens because it doesn't have it. As I said you could see some camera shake in at least one photo. The "fast" lens does allow you to shoot with less light, but you still have to pay more attention to having a steady hand without the VR. I did the same thing when I first got mine and was a little disappointed. After taking it out several more times I got the hang of it. Really just walk around and shoot with it. Shoot outside, shoot around the house, turn lights on, open a window....just try it out with different f-stops and situations. It has become a habit of mine now when I pick up a new lens to just walk around and shoot things. If I hadn't deleted the pictures I have ones of my book shelves, just about everything sitting on and around my desk, my flowerbed, and just about most interesting subjects within a half mile walk of my house. Especially when playing with the DOF of the f1.8 I had to test it out more then my other lenses.
For portraits just try it. Have someone stand and focus on the face and just keep stopping it down until you get what you like. Personally I tried some at 1.8 and parts of the face weren't totally in focus. So wide open you might not get the whole face in focus, but it was a fairly close pic. At a little more distance you might be OK at f1.8. As I said try it out. If I question the DOF when I take the picture I will take several more at different f stops.
I also agree with the ISO. I leave mine as low as I can. Bumping it up will always degrade the quality and I use it as a last ditch effort if all else fails. Honestly I can only think of a handful of times I actually bumped it up and they were all inside dark rooms.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Thanks guys.... Those are some wonderful guiding (comforting) words. Sure I would do that. Glad I picked a prime lens which should allow me to learn. Will give a try and let you all know.
Appreciate all the help.
Posted 2 years ago # -
When I get a new lens I take photos of a Mr. PatatoHead (you can pick anything) with focus on the eyes at various apertures. My camera sits on a bean bag and I take 100's of shots from the closest focus distance out to about 10-15 feet (depending on wide, tele, macro, zoom) to get an idea of what it can do at certain distances and f-stops. I do this with random objects and people until I feel comfortable with the lens and what I can do with it.
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Even though it is a faster lens, with a less f-number, high iso (both increasing shutter speed), in a "low light condition" a tripod is required?---Short answer: Yes (or rest your camera on something to keep is steady). You are too worried about shutter speed. You have the right idea, but for macro or objects your main concern should be resolution. High ISOs degrade the image greatly when you are working on macro type shots. Just because the camera can take photos at a high iso it does not mean it does it well.
I'm yet to try portraits/landscapes with low f-number. Let me work on that.
- Also not to go for a close up shot in a low light which could cause camera shake?
-/It is not the cause, it is the result.
- Should I turn off the in-camera NR?
-/Personal taste - I leave mine at normal. It only really kicks in at iso 800+
- Any other suggestions?
-/play around with settings until you feel comfortable with the camera and lens.
- Any ideal f-number for portraits, that could blur the background? I know it depends on the distance from the object. :)
-/I take most of mine at f2 with 35,50,85s but I do miss the focus on the eyes. On my 70-300vr I can trow backgrounds out at f6.3. It all comes down to: Focal length vs how far you are from the subject vs how far away the background is behind the subject.Posted 2 years ago # -
swame_sp said:
- Any ideal f-number for portraits, that could blur the background? I know it depends on the distance from the object. :)There is no such thing, probably, but I like f/2.8 on this lens for individual portraits. Group portraits closer to f/5.6 or f/8. This is actually the lens I like to use for family portraits because the distortion is easy to remove.
TTJ has some good tips. I like the bean bag idea if you don't have a tripod.Posted 2 years ago # -
Here's a shot I took with the 35mm.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29754093@N02/5270404126/
Notice that the insect's body is barely in focus, even at F/3.5.
Posted 2 years ago #
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