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35mm 1.8G related questions...

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swame_sp

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Forgive my ignorance for this question. Purchased D7k+35mm 1.8 after lot of thoughts for using it in low light/indoor ceremonies.

Received the lens yesterday and was playing with it. I was trying different type of shots and all range of ISO. Mostly was some close up shots, various f-numbers shots of my laptop keyboard with different focus area. Photos were not sharp enough when captured without flash. (I know without a picture here it is tough to explain, do not have it with me now). Basically was trying to see different DOFs.

I googled for sample 35mm pictures and none were of the type I tried. They were all landscape/portraits and not close-ups. What are the general use of this lens?

Thanks for reading.

Posted 2 years ago #
iwearshmedium

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Search for the aperture size, f/1.8. What was your shutter speed for one. And at 1.8, when you focus and move even a small distance closer or further, it can throw off the focus/sharpness.

Posted 2 years ago #
Drab

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swame_sp said:
I googled for sample 35mm pictures and none were of the type I tried. They were all landscape/portraits and not close-ups. What are the general use of this lens?

Whatever you want. 35mm on DX is (almost) a "normal" lens ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normal_lens ), and as such gets used for just about everything under the sun. There is absolutely no right or wrong use of this lens.

Close focus distance is ~1', so if your keyboard was closer than that softness due to focus miss is to be expected.

swame_sp said:
Photos were not sharp enough when captured without flash. (I know without a picture here it is tough to explain, do not have it with me now).

My first thought when presented with that description is that your shutter speeds were too low when not using flash and that inadvertent movement blurred (even if ever so slightly) the no-flash photos.

As you said, photos would help.

Posted 2 years ago #
mlwadester

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Mostly was some close up shots, various f-numbers shots of my laptop keyboard with different focus area.

^This makes me think you are searching for a macro lens, or as Nikon calls them "micro", because they are typically used for those close up shots. The 35mm will pull off some of it but it is usually used for some super sharp portrait sets and shallow DOFs of stuff that is a little further away. As previously stated your shutter speed will have a lot to do with it.^

I googled for sample 35mm pictures and none were of the type I tried. They were all landscape/portraits and not close-ups. What are the general use of this lens?

^Sames.^

Posted 2 years ago #
tcole1983

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I have some samples I can post when I get home. It is sharp and it works to single out subjects. It takes a little practice. It will however not be a great closeup macro type lens. It won't focus with the subjects too close and because of the fixed 35mm it will still be kind of wide at the point when you are at the minimum focus distance.

Posted 2 years ago #
Bram

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I really use this lens for a lot of things. It's great as a walkaround lens as most things will fit in your view and if you want them to be bigger you just walk towards the subject a bit. Also it's quite small even with the hood on so it's rather low profile, useful for when you're in a public space. I'd say it's perfect for street photography, but it can also perfectly be used for portraits. If you want to see some samples look here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/berkien/sets/72157624366468172/ (on D90)
and
http://www.flickr.com/photos/berkien/sets/72157623937052593/ (on D60)
Most of them are street but there's some portraits and even architecture there as well.
Most importantly though, try not to use any shutter speeds slower than say 1/50. Also, when using the lens wide open you should bear in mind of course that a large portion of the image will just not be in focus. The part you focused on should be really sharp though, like in this one:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/berkien/5250709079/in/set-72157624366468172/
This is at f/2.2 and you can see the cameraman is really well sharp.
Put up some of your pics though so we can judge.

Posted 2 years ago #
swame_sp

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I remembered the rule that the photos will not be blurred (static objects) when the shutter speed is more than the "mm" of the lens (? lens size, not sure of the term). As it was a 35mm lens I ensured that it was more than 1/40.

I had ISO at 25,600 - 400 as less than that made the shutter speed go less. I was trying to see different DOFs.

Very well aware that these are not macro lens, have ordered a specific macro prime lens. I will post the pictures after I get back home.

@Bram, Those are wonderful captures buddy. The night shots were so cool.

Posted 2 years ago #
PB PM

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Shooting at a shutter speed shorter than the focal length is no guaranty of sharpness. Also, if you think that way, you need to think of the 35mm F1.8 as a 50mm lens, so you would want a shutter speed of at least 1/50s.

Posted 2 years ago #
gelu88

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ALso, note that that rule takes care of camera shake, but subject movement its completely different

Posted 2 years ago #
tcole1983

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Here are a couple examples...not the best pictures, but they show DOF using this lens.

Posted 2 years ago #
Drab

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gelu88 said:
ALso, note that that rule takes care of camera shake, but subject movement its completely different

I rather suspect his keyboard wasn't squirming! ;)

Posted 2 years ago #
adamz

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please post pictures with all EXIF data (unmodified)

Posted 2 years ago #
heartyfisher

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the rule is 1/focal length on 35mm/FX so for the 35mm dx its more like 1/50 an mentioned in the post by PBPM. However, at "macro" ranges you need to increase shutter speeds even more. In your case Shooting at the minimal focus distance of the 35mm you should probably use 1/70 or more.

Posted 2 years ago #
PAG

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Try the same experiment with a tripod and remote release. That eliminates the human shake element.

The other thing to beware of is low light focusing. Make sure the area is reasonably well lit to ensure the autofocus works at its best.

Posted 2 years ago #
shigzeo

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You should also holds your hands steady, wrapping yourself around the camera to make things as firm as possible. Look at self portraits on flickr to get an idea. Honestly, I've met very few blurred shots with the 35mm unless I use manual focus and take pictures closer than the lens allows, or intentionally blur them. This lens is SHARP!

I use it on: D200 and D5000

Posted 2 years ago #
jonnyapple

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swame_sp said:
I had ISO at 25,600 - 400 as less than that made the shutter speed go less. I was trying to see different DOFs.

ISO 25600 may look soft because there will be some heavy noise reduction applied. Any chance of shooting something outside?
Here's a link to another thread where I posted a few samples (D300 was the body used):
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=1146#post-19204

Posted 2 years ago #
TaoTeJared

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I have the 35mm 1.8 and it is really sharp.
There are so many missing details with your post that there is allot that could be going on. My main guess is DOF or depth of field is very shallow thus it will not be sharp. This is a result of close focusing. For sharp results you should shoot at least at 1/60th to give yourself some room. Tripod obviously is the solve all but who wants to use one of those ;)
Here are some quick hit Numbers that may help.

Macro distance help:
-Closest focus distance of the lens = 1ft
-At 1ft away your depth of field focus: F/1.8 = 1/4", F/5.6 = 5/8", F/11 = 1'1/4"
-Focus plane runs parallel to your front lens element. / / If your camera is at an angle, your focus will run at the same angle.

Camera settings:
-Higher the iso, less sharp a photo will be. (Probably not the main issue but a contributing factor.) Anything above 1600 for macro you should not expect too much.
-Make sure you are shooting Jpeg Fine, auto sharping, AF is on (I would set it to AF-C for continuous focusing at close distances) Shoot in P or A. Watch your shutter speed so it stays above 1/60th. Set ISO to Auto.

You can run a test shot on a ruler.

Here is a quick example of my 35mm 1.8 and shot from about 16" away, handheld, iso 220, f/1.8, 1/60th, and no flash.

Posted 2 years ago #
swame_sp

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This is one of the capture:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28580023@N05/5265296550/in/photostream/

I'm unable to put the photo here as the link in flickr is not popping up. So the above picture is one of the series that I'm talking about.

Have I tried this as a macro lens, which I should not have?

Posted 2 years ago #
NSXType-R

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That's depth of field working there, I have the 35mm 1.8 as well.

Posted 2 years ago #
TaoTeJared

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That looks perfect to me. What you see as bad, I see it as awesome. You can use anything as a macro lens. Take my 105vr or 60 and I would get the same results just allot closer to the keys. What are you hoping for or trying to achieve? If you are wanting the whole keyboard in focus you need to stop down more.

Take a look above about Depth of field (DOF). Shoot in "A" and don't worry about shutter speed. Then set the camera on a bag or something and set the aperture from F1.8, then 5.6, 8, 16, 22 so you can see what you need to shoot at to get the desired look.

It sounds like you just need to learn a bit more about how the lens works and reacts to different shooting situations.

Know thy equipment.

Posted 2 years ago #
swame_sp

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I'm not looking for full KB in focus, I did try various different shots, here in the above capture I was expecting a sharper letter "V", felt it is not so.

Posted 2 years ago #
Bram

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Looks like depth of field to me as well. If you want to be really sure try taking a shot of a page of text, in the same way as you shot the keyboard. It'll be easier to judge the sharpness on that I think, right now it's kind of dodgy, with the light and black of the keyboard.

Posted 2 years ago #
tcole1983

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I guess my question is what you are expecting with what seems to be hand holding a closeup pic in not great light? I also don't think the lighted keyboard with the black and white contrast is helping. I can see at least one has some pretty bad camera shake and you are shooting at ISO 6400.

Just because everyone says it is a good lens doesn't mean it is full proof...you still have to use it correctly for it to work well.

Posted 2 years ago #
adamz

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+1 tcole

Posted 2 years ago #
TaoTeJared

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swame_sp - I can't get the Exif data that Tcole pointed out. Can you post what the F, ISO, and all the settings you are using?

I'm not sure that we are seeing the same photo you are referring to. The V looks fine to me. I can also see some camera shake and some normal Noise reduction going on.

Posted 2 years ago #