where there’s smoke there’s forum fire
Please let's NOT turn every thread into a "which lens should I get" discussion. Back on-topic please "General D7000 Discussions (part 4)". Which means the camera itself and NOT on lenses.
Speedychris22 do a forum search for those specific lenses. There are a lot of discussions and comparisons. Someone searching for your question in the future isn't going to find it buried in this thread.
Thanks guys I think I'm going to with the 70-300mm. And FYI nikodoby on the first page you state that your starting up a thread for the d7000 and that instead of having of "which lense and d7000 or wait" threads to put it in hear. Thanks
Enjoy that lens, Chris. We'd love to see some of what you do with it.
Uh yeah I know what I wrote Chris but you weren't asking anything new about the D7000 that hasn't already been asked "50 billion" times already. Just say'n
Just a question, any reason why the flash sync is slightly higher with the D7000 at 1/320?
Did you know that the D7K has two infrared receivers?
- One on the front
- One on the back
Both can be used to remote control the camera with the ML-L3 transmitter.
That means that you can put the camera on a tripod, sit behind the camera with a good drinky and still use the remote control.
Two receivers is pretty damn cool.
By RTFM I just discovered that the D7K allows Time-Lapse Photography (Called Interval Timer Photography). For years I was waiting for this feature. (I guess this feature is on the professional cameras that cost much more than the D7K)
In the 80s I had two C*n cameras that had this feature as a command-back(T70 and T90). Then when I switched to Nikon in the 90s, I missed this feature.
Together with Multi-exposure, this feature can be interesting. (Allowing more than 30sec of automatic exposure)
Did someone on the forum use these features? (separately or combined)
I have used them independently on my D300 and now just tried them together with the D7000. A couple of thoughts:
-The interface on the interval timer is improved. I remember with the D300 never really being sure whether I had started the series or not. I didn't have that problem with the D7000.
-The multiple exposure setting will allow for overlay of up to 3 images on the D7000. It seems like that was more like 10 at least on the D300, but that really limits it for what you're looking for, rbid.
-If you want to have an almost continuous exposure, you have to set the interval to be one second longer than the shutter speed (e.g., 30 s shutter speed, interval of 31 s). Otherwise, the interval timer misses taking the frame that's supposed to start right when the first frame ends. This seems silly to me, but it's true. Also, you may have to have long exposure noise reduction turned off. I tried it with 5-second exposures so it wouldn't be an issue.
-For multi exposure, auto gain on averages the images, while auto gain off integrates them (direct sum of all three). Expose accordingly.
NSXType-R said:
Just a question, any reason why the flash sync is slightly higher with the D7000 at 1/320?
Yeah, I just noticed that on the NR blog last night! DUH! All this time, I've been shooting flash at only 1/250th on my D7000! The D7000 just gets better and better, the more you know its capabilities.
strobist claims you can get to 1/400s if you tape a couple of the flash contacts so the D7000 doesn't know it's there. This was shared elsewhere on the forum:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2011/03/nikons-d7000-sync-dial-goes-to-eleven.html
jonnyapple said:
strobist claims you can get to 1/400s if you tape a couple of the flash contacts so the D7000 doesn't know it's there. This was shared elsewhere on the forum:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2011/03/nikons-d7000-sync-dial-goes-to-eleven.html
Neat!.
This trick I used on my D70s for taking photos of droplets.
Read/see here: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=15441080
In order to go above 1/500 on my D70s I have done the following:
Edit: If the image above is a frozen frog from imageshack, then search the internet for "tapedflashconnector1ax.jpg".
From: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=15500923
Hi,
I'm one who uses the FP option for the highest shutter speed the camera can do and use it often. It zaps the flashes (I have several and use them), but shooting at 1/2000th at f5.8/f8 outdoors makes a huge difference.
The tape or cardboard over the connector trick is just to stop the camera's TTL from seeing the image.
My best,
Mike
Drab said:
I'm confused.
It is just to stop the camera's Through The Lens < what > from seeing the image?
I guess that it prevents the camera from measuring the light from a Pre-flash through the lenses, this information is parsed by the camera and used to set the power and duration of the flash.
TTL was used in film, when a sensor (If I'm not wrong, they were calling it "Off-the-film" sensor) was capturing the reflected light on the film negative from the pre-flash, to calculate how long and how strong should be the flash pulse emitted by the flash tube.. eliminating the need for the photographer to calculate this measurement.
With the first DSLR cameras, TTL was a technological problem... but now most of the digital cameras also contains a bunch of "Off-the-film" sensors and the same theory is used on flash metering. (Even you can use the same TTL flash for Film and Digital if you want...)
You appear to be missing my point as well, rbid.
TTL = Through The Lens.
s/TTL/through the lens/ in your last post and tell me there isn't a word missing.
"With the first DSLR cameras, through the lens was a technological problem..."
Through the lens what? Through the lens focusing? Through the lens flash metering? ??
While I think I know what you're trying to say, I have no idea what Mike was.
And, no, there is no special sensor in i-TTL, the matrix meter is used, which is why there are preflashes, because the matrix meter can't be used when the mirror is up.
d-TTL used a painted shutter to mimic film and used the old film-TTL flash meter, but had to preflash because the shutter isn't visible when the shot is being taken. ;) Point being I'm well aware of how the TTL flash metering systems work, but that still offers me no clue as to what word appears to be missing in the above posts.
Hi Drab,
Poor choice of words. Flash syncing with camera's TTL mechanism.
In my film days, any flash would fire at any speed, any time, it just wouldn't sync, which, I _thought_ was the point of the strobe trick - getting it to fire at above sync speed.
My guess is that the connectors involved won't allow the camera to be set to fire or the flash to fire at certain speeds with those connections with various modes, but the cardboard trick will allow both modes and firing to work, but with loss of some part of the frame due to loss of some curtain sync.
Again, I could have misinterpreted the content. It wouldn't be the first time.
My best,
Mike
Ahh, that makes sense.
When I found out that my D70 can flash sync at 1/8000th of a second I was incredulous. I couldnt believe it till i tried it myself. after testing it I found that it was even better than the FPS as its 1/8000 across the whole frame while the FPS actually still takes 1/200 of a second to complete. ie if you have a vertical object moving horizontally across the frame(lamp post?) then with the D70 it will still be vertcally stright as you would want it to be while with FPS it will look like its streatched and leaning depending of how much horizontal movement there is. There are other artifacts from a FPS like compressing or lengthening object moving vertically as well.
The ability to do 1/400 to 1/500 with the D7000 is good to know !!
@Drab: Thanks for the correction, I learned that I was mixing some info from the back of my mind :)
@heartyfisher: I guess it is time to test the D7000 with some droplets like I have done few years ago with my old D70s.
:-) I dunno.. I tested droplets with FP with my S5pro and I was disappointed compared to what i can get from my D70. still if you try with 1/400 or 1/500 it could help cut out ambient light. but I found that FPS had too much motion blur for water drops photos.
heartyfisher said:
:-) I dunno.. I tested droplets with FP with my S5pro and I was disappointed compared to what i can get from my D70. still if you try with 1/400 or 1/500 it could help cut out ambient light. but I found that FPS had too much motion blur for water drops photos.
Can you or somebody else explain what is FPS (Frames per second?) and FP. I'm here to learn :)
Its short form for "Auto FP High-Speed Sync" where FP = focal Plane. It is a setting you can use with the newer SB flashes with most of the modern nikon dslrs, where the flash outputs continuously(actually its a series of flashes one every 1/40000 sec or sonthing like that) for about 1/200 of a second so that you can use your shutter speed up to the maximum eg 1/8000. But for any shutter speed above 1/200 you loose the equivalent amount of light. so if you put your shutter speed at 1/400 you have to increase you aperture by 1 stop.
A feature I'm missing from the D7000 (compared what C*n does on even lower end DSLRs) is Auto Depth of Field. That is, you instruct the camera to use of two (or more) focusing points, and let the camera compute the correct focus distance and aperture (AKA DOF).
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