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They are all none TTL incl the regular pockrtwizard, but pocketwizard does have a TTL mdel almost ready for sale for Nikon, had one for Canon since last year. The pocketwizrds are $200 per unit, so to control 2 flashes is $600.
I you can afford it, I would wait for the TTL model, this will also give you highspeed sync to your Nikon Flash
Pete
Here is how I use the IShoot receiver on my Studio Lights and Regular Flashes:
Studio Light with pc to 3.5mm sync cord:
Two Flashes on home made flash bracket with pc to pc sync cord, I have other brackets for just one flash with or without the use of umbrella
Hope this help if you want to figure out how to use wireless flash triggers
Pete
Picture worth a 1000 words ! whats that little red bit at the bottom of the flash. did you make that ?
That's a little screw that secures the flash to the hot shoe and keeps it from falling off.
heartyfisher said:
Picture worth a 1000 words ! whats that little red bit at the bottom of the flash. did you make that ?
It is a flash shoe from another flash bracket, and like Niko kindly explained the red thing is the screw that holds the flash in place.
The bracket was made from from a metal plate, bolt, and couple broken flash mounts that fits on studio light stands, the idea is to get extra power or have each flash run at less power and to have the flashes aim at the middle of the umbrella
Pete
Yes it is a little screw on a Flash shoe from an old flash bracket
Pete
I have a little update on these ishoot triggers. Like I say, I bought the ones with receivers that have a hotshoe (well, two each actually) and then a 3.5mm jack. The instruction manual says something like "1/500s sync speed (depends on camera)." I tested where the cutoff is for my D90, and it looks like the best you can do is about 1/160s—anything faster and you get catch the shutter half open with the flash. Switching to rear curtain sync didn't change anything, either (does that only control the in-camera flash?).
I thought it might be a delay in my studio lights (alien bees B400), so I tried firing an SB-600 set to manual on the ishoot's hotshoe and got exactly the same results.
This isn't a limitation for me since I won't need shutter speeds faster than that, but I thought I'd share just in case anyone is planning on using these things to overpower sunlight or something. These are great little triggers!
You know Jonny I thought for sure that I was OK at 1/250s sync speed. So I tried again and for some reason on my D300 I OK at 1/250s but 1/320s is to fast. But then on my D80 there is a difference and what you have found I found too, now 1/160s is OK but 1/250s is to fast. Funny thing is that black out is also a different end of the exposure. The D300 blacks out at the top and the D80 at the bottom
Pete
That's interesting about the different sides. Do the shutter curtains go in opposite directions on those models? On the D90, the bottom of the frame is dark when you shoot too fast.
jonnyapple said:
That's interesting about the different sides. Do the shutter curtains go in opposite directions on those models? On the D90, the bottom of the frame is dark when you shoot too fast.
The same on the D80, but on the D300 it's the top and 1/250s is OK
Pete
BTW Jonny I am going to mode them a bit, I will add an antenna to the transmitter, I will post when it is done, some people claim you can double the distance, it will also be on my Flickr site
OK I did a bit more testing. BTW the Flash sync is 1/200s on D90/80 and 1/250s on the D300, this might explain the difference
Anyway with a Nikon flash attached on both cameras you can in normal mode only go as high as the Flash sync speed, but with my Vivitar 285 I can go one stop higher, 1/250s D80 and 1/320s on my D300. So the wireless triggers most have a delay of app one stop
Pete
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