where there’s smoke there’s forum fire
Just a question, how would you take a photo with very contrasty light?
Like a dim room with a bank of bright windows in the background without changing the lighting situation?
Use neutral density filters? Circular polarizer? This happened when I was on a ferry boat. There was no way I was going to shut the blinds!
bracket the shot.
Shoot for highlights, or in other words try not to overexpose too much.
CPL could help but it depends of the angle of the light and ND will just reduce all the light, shadows as well, so it will hardly be usable.
Later you could increase the values of shadows in a post production.
And of course if you can use that tripod listen to Niko and go for bracketing for best results.
I know this sounds crazy, but off camera flash for fill.
What exactly do you mean PB PM?
NikoDoby said:
bracket the shot.
That would make the most sense. And then combine them all later on in post production?
That would mean it's like a mini HDR. Actually, I could make it HDR if I wanted.
mb said:
Shoot for highlights, or in other words try not to overexpose too much.
CPL could help but it depends of the angle of the light and ND will just reduce all the light, shadows as well, so it will hardly be usable.
Later you could increase the values of shadows in a post production.
And of course if you can use that tripod listen to Niko and go for bracketing for best results.
Yeah, that's why I put in a question mark. They wouldn't really work. Tripod might be an issue, it's a public place and there's security crawling all over.
But the bracketing sounds like the best idea.
Thanks a lot!
PB PM also makes sense ...
Oh gotcha, but I was thinking just one camera hand held. You'd need more equipment to do a shot like what you suggest. Bracketing is the easiest thing to do.
How do you use bracketing without a tripod?
Simple you can either rest the camera on a table or counter or if there is sufficient lighting you can get away with hand holding (wide stance elbows tucked in). I use this technique a lot. Shooting with VR helps too. The only problem is when there is something moving in the frame like people, but if it's just an empty room or a room with people sitting it shouldn't be a problem. Take several shots until you are comfortable that you've got what you need.
Bracketing is possible without a tripod, just use continuous release at max speed. It may not be as good, but it is better than nothing.
PB PM said:
I know this sounds crazy, but off camera flash for fill.
PB PM said:
You use fill light from an external flash to prevent shadows, expose based on the light, rather than the shadows.
That might work, but I may need to be like Joe McNally and own like 12 SB600's to pull that off. The room I was shooting in was massive, the windows were the entire wall, I would say it was about 100ft long.
NikoDoby said:
Oh gotcha, but I was thinking just one camera hand held. You'd need more equipment to do a shot like what you suggest. Bracketing is the easiest thing to do.
Yeah, that's where the limits of the camera come in. Sigh...
Right, I was thinking more of photographing a subject in mixed light, rather than photographing the entire room.
Thanks for the tips, will try
I've always wished somebody could figure out how to combine some kind of e-ink filter thhat could let the camera analyze the exposure and then electronically draw a ND shade to tone the light down on the higher part.... What's that? Just use HDR... well fine then!
Soon some cameras will have "auto HDR" mode. The camera will stitch multiple exposures into one image without the need for you to do it with a computer. That will really help to capture some amazing photos!
NikoDoby said:
Soon some cameras will have "auto HDR" mode. The camera will stitch multiple exposures into one image without the need for you to do it with a computer. That will really help to capture some amazing photos!
True, but the only thing I can do right now is to do it manual in a computer. I really need to learn Photoshop pronto.
There's a big difference between HDR and that Active D-Lighting thing that Nikon does right?
Yes, with D-Lighting you are only "cooking" with the pixels you originally captured with the scene.
NikoDoby said:
Soon some cameras will have "auto HDR" mode. The camera will stitch multiple exposures into one image without the need for you to do it with a computer. That will really help to capture some amazing photos!
Hey Niko. It already exists and it's called the iPhone (pro hdr app. Cost me $2). It's crap not sure if it's the app or the camera. But it does nicely in a pinch. Check out my Hamilton pool shots on the places PAD thread.
The highlights/shadows effect in Photoshop will give you a quick HDR with what you've got by bringing up the value mostly just in the shadows. If you've bracketed, you can find the one that does the best job under this tool. Just be prepared to see all that noise in the shadow areas, and it looks a bit cooked (well, more than a bit) applied full strength with the default values.
I find this a help in recovering those almost hopelessly underexposed backlit shots that matrix metering didn't quite get right.
Thanks a lot for the comments guys!
NSXType-R said:
True, but the only thing I can do right now is to do it manual in a computer. I really need to learn Photoshop pronto.There's a big difference between HDR and that Active D-Lighting thing that Nikon does right?
If you have NEF files CaptureNX will do a better job, not only with Active D-Lighting but exposure + shadow/highlight protection could do wonders.
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