Thanks for the help Panamon_Creel :^)

alphanikonrex said:
So with the whole AF-S vs. AF-D (I think), what do you think would have more battery life: 70-200 ƒ/2.8G w/ VR-On or 80-200 ƒ/2.8D (without VR of course)?

From my quick test it appears that the VR itself doesn't take much power when active however both of the "tested" VR lenses had a higher current draw than non VR lenses while idle w/metering on and that current draw remained the same no matter if the VR switch was turned on or off.

alphanikonrex said:
Oh, and I'm planning on getting a battery grip once I get a "big-boy" lens. How would AA's work regarding battery life?

Depends what AA's you are going to use ;)
I use either low discharge 2100 mAh or high capacity 2700 mAh NiMH which, due to their higher capacity, would last longer at "normal temperatures" than the 1500 mAh EN-EL3e.

Awesome, Panamon_Creel! That was idle curiosity; thanks for doing that!

Oh, and I'm planning on getting a battery grip once I get a "big-boy" lens. How would AA's work regarding battery life?

Wow. Thank you Keith and Panamon_Creel :^)

So it looks like I'm pretty mean to my batteries. Ah, what the heck—this can be an "endurance" experiment ;^)

So with the whole AF-S vs. AF-D (I think), what do you think would have more battery life: 70-200 ƒ/2.8G w/ VR-On or 80-200 ƒ/2.8D (without VR of course)?

I'm thinking it's due to the fact that there is less "friction" and "closer" gearing with AF-S versus an in-camera screw drive.

Out of curiosity I rigged one of my MB10 cradles and did some crude power peak usage measurements on my D300
General set-up -> continuous focusing ->Matrix Metering --Measured off 8X NiMH AA

Nikkor AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G VR lens
Metering only, AF&VR Idle --> 200 mA
Metering, AF and VR --> 520 mA
Metering, AF, VR Off --> 495 mA

Nikkor AF-S 200mm f/2G VR lens
Metering only, AF&VR Idle --> 262 mA
Metering, AF and VR --> 450 mA
Metering, AF, VR Off --> 420 mA

Nikkor AF 85mm f/1.4D
Metering only --> 140 mA
Metering and AF --> 480 mA

Nikkor AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G
Metering only --> 160 mA
Metering and AF --> 285 mA

Sigma 180mm f/3.5 Macro
Metering only --> 142 mA
Metering and AF --> 430 mA

As said it was a quick measurement and with my set-up surely wasn't accurate but from the looks of it the camera internal AF motor requires more power than the tested AF-S lenses.

I managed to get 1200 shots with my D300 with a year old battery. Was regular use, mix of low and high ISO, no flash and plenty of menu use and live view. I think I could have taken at least 100-200 more.

I get around 800 raw+jpg on one battery from d200/d90, image review turned off, VR on, continuos mode on both AF and shutter, as I use grip I always have two batteries in the compartment, so once I go back from shooting I just put both of them on charger.

as for storing, the labeling (as Niko suggested) is really good idea, I was using this kind of color markings when I was shooting on film, and never had any problems with that

Jonny as panamon_creel said. It's a good question. The problem is my AF-S 70-200 also has VR but my AF-D 300F4 does not. Since I get a bit more battery life out of the 300, I think the VR, at least in this one example, perhaps uses more battery than the cameras screw drive. This could be due to the size of the 70-200. A smaller VR lens may produce different results.

bernard said:
Don't leave the battery charge go to zero. Should it go below that, the polarities will be reversed, and that would be the very end of its life.

The camera would shut down before that and battery manufacturers usually include a deep discharge protection circuit so it is unlikely to happen unless you discharge the battery to cut off and let self discharge to the point of no return thereafter.

jonnyapple said:
Does AF using the camera scre or AF-S use more battery?

Good question, power draw might differ between AF-S lens models so there may not be an easy answer to that question.

Thanks, Keith. I had no idea about the useful life thing. Not that I've ever bought batteries I don't need, but I won't start now.

Hey guys, Here is a helpfull guide I found on Ion batteries. It may help those of you that just throw them in the Bag. It does make a difference.

Lithium-ion battery packs are a videographer’s dream. Extended run times mean fewer battery changes and Lithium-ion batteries are lightweight so shooters aren’t overly burdened, even if they carry a spare. But these features come at a price. Lithium-ion batteries have their own shortcomings and operating requirements. Here’s how to treat them right:

Avoid heat. Storage anywhere where the temps get above 120 degrees is very bad. Direct sunlight, closed cars, and tropical climates are all hostile environments that can lead to battery failure.

Treat them gently. Lithium-ion batteries are more likely to suffer life-threatening injuries from accidental drops and rough-handling than their predecessors. Cushion them with cardboard or foam during storage and transport. And try really hard not to drop them.

Be partial to partial-discharge. Lithium-ion batteries are not susceptible to memory-effect and will be helped, not harmed, by frequent recharging after partial use. Fully discharging a Lithium-ion battery on a regular basis will shorten its life.

Don’t store them fully-charged. Batteries that will not be used for 30 days or longer should be stored at a charge level of 40%-50%. Storing fully-charged Lithium-ion packs for extended periods will shorten their useful life.

Use them or lose them. Unlike their Ni-cad and NiMH cousins, Lithium-ion packs have a useful life of two to three years from the date of manufacture, whether or not they are used. Don’t buy spares. Order replacements when they are needed. Check the manufacturing date stamped on the pack when you receive them to be sure you are getting fresh stock.

Hope this helps. It was usefull for me.

Keith

Gentoo said:
The 70-200 usually yields slightly fewer shots than my 300F4 despite having to use the motor to focus the 300. I guess the VR on the 70-200 sucks up more battery.

Does AF using the camera screw or AF-S use more battery?
edit: fixed typo

On my D40, I get around 2,000 to 3,000 shots.

Maybe I'm being optimistic here, but I honestly don't remember the last time I charged my D40. Then again, the last time I used it was almost 4-5 months ago. And I don't have VR lenses, so it might make sense.

On my D300, I have gotten 1500 to 2000 shots before in both RAW and JPG. Generally, slightly higher in jpg. It also seems to depend on what lens I'm using. The 70-200 usually yields slightly fewer shots than my 300F4 despite having to use the motor to focus the 300. I guess the VR on the 70-200 sucks up more battery.

On the D90, I think it's around 1000. I generally use the 70-200, the 35mm1.8 or the 12-24 on that camera. I tend to use the D90 for shorter periods of time than I use the D300 and at this time of year, not even as often.

lol on mY d200 I'm lucky to get 350 in RAW!! I usually have 2 with me for an event, can sometimes get about 700-800 shots. . .no flash use either. . .

I easily get more than 1000 shots from one battery. I usually exceed that when they're 3/4 empty. Then I swap with my spare one. I don't use the internal flash unit though, and keep the use of the screen to a minimum. However, my VR is always ON, and I'm always on Continuous AF.

Don't leave the battery charge go to zero. Should it go below that, the polarities will be reversed, and that would be the very end of its life.

Never checked to see how much shots I can get out of a single new EL3e but I'm sure it will be less than most others with same camera body since mine has a bluetooth receiver module plugged in for my GPS which takes some power away.
Mind you I mostly run my D300 or D700 with high capacity NiMH or another EL3e via the MB-10 Grip so the extra drain is not an issue.
One thing I know for sure is that LiveView, which I often use via PC remote control, sucks power like crazy.

For recharging LiIo it is said that fully discharging them prior recharging puts more wear on them than to partially discharge and therefor charge more frequently.
Also long term storage is supposed to be at 40% charge (new batteries are usually received at that charge state) and cool for lower discharge rate (fridge is good, freezers might be too cold and cause damage)

I understand perfectly! I carry like four batteries with me at a time anyway. It's easy for me to tell what's charged and what's not—if it has a cover on it and has neatly been placed in my battery pocket, then it must be charged. If it uncovered and at the bottom of my bag next to my uncapped 18-70mm, then it has definitely been depleted. You see, my system works too!

That's why I use the stickers! It's faster then inserting the battery to figuring out if it's fully charged or not. And I'm talking about multiple batteries not just two.

jonnyapple said:
I put dots in the little plastic cover that line up with the contacts on the battery. When I take out a battery that's drained, I put the cover on it backwards, which let's me know it needs charging. Then I charge ut and flip the cover around to the right way when it's charged.

TIME CONSUMING! How can you guys have time for this? Whenever I change something—camera, lens, flash, card, battery, whatever I just toss the old one in the biggest compartment of my bag (easiest to aim at if my bag's a distance from me ;^) ) without fiddling with any caps, bags, or contact covers. I don't ever want to miss the next shot!

NikoDoby said:
Well there you go. So it doesn't matter how you charge 'em if you treat them like that!

Another tip is that I have several batteries and have each marked with colored stickers. That way I know that the red battery is fully charged but the blue one is the one I just used and need to recharge.

I put dots in the little plastic cover that line up with the contacts on the battery. When I take out a battery that's drained, I put the cover on it backwards, which let's me know it needs charging. Then I charge it and flip the cover around to the right way when it's charged.

That's too complicated! I just cross my fingers and pray I remembered to charm them :^)

I mean if I put a green sticker on one battery and a red on another then I would keep the red on the charger forever and the green in camera! If they were other colors I'd completely ignore it and use my current method. Nikon ought to put battery-level-indication lights in the EN-EL4a's.

Well there you go. So it doesn't matter how you charge 'em if you treat them like that!

Another tip is that I have several batteries and have each marked with colored stickers. That way I know that the red battery is fully charged but the blue one is the one I just used and need to recharge.