This is what I was referring to from page 16 in the Technical Guide Nikon published for the D800:

With cameras like the D800E, which are suited to visually
complex subjects, it is important to get as much sharpness
from the lens as possible. Contrast at the periphery of the image can generally be increased by choosing an aperture two
or three stops from the maximum, although results will vary
from lens to lens. Below are some of the lenses you can use
for enhanced sharpness:
AF-S NIKKOR 14–24 mm f/2.8G ED
AF-S NIKKOR 24–70 mm f/2.8G ED
AF-S NIKKOR 70–200 mm f/2.8G ED VR II
AF-S NIKKOR 16–35 mm f/4G ED VR
AF-S NIKKOR 24–120 mm f/4G ED VR
AF-S NIKKOR 200–400 mm f/4G ED VR II
AF-S NIKKOR 24 mm f/1.4G ED
AF-S NIKKOR 35 mm f/1.4G
AF-S NIKKOR 85 mm f/1.4G
AF-S NIKKOR 200 mm f/2G ED VR II
AF-S NIKKOR 300 mm f/2.8G ED VR II
AF-S NIKKOR 400 mm f/2.8G ED VR
AF-S NIKKOR 500 mm f/4G ED VR
AF-S NIKKOR 600 mm f/4G ED VR
AF-S Micro NIKKOR 60 mm f/2.8G ED
AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105 mm f/2.8G IF-ED

http://www.nikonusa.com/en_US/o/Y6wrkA9OU_z04IreazIXl_22UII/PDF/D800_TechnicalGuide_En.pdf

Notice the 50mm lenses are missing, the f1.8 lenses are missing, etc.

SquamishPhoto said:
Seems kinda weird to baby something when its designed to go to the moon and back, but to each their own. :]

As far as I heard there is no water on the moon ;)

For the tests I would really like to know how the (old) Nikon MF lenses are doing against the more modern AF-S lenses on that sensor.

Call me crazy, but I used my D700 with almost no regard for weather. Its still rocking after over 102,000 clicks in two years. Ocean, dirt, rain, dust, chalk, smacking it into granite while shooting rock climbing, I even fell in the creek with it one time. Seems kinda weird to baby something when its designed to go to the moon and back, but to each their own. :]

sevencrossing said:
Exactly how good is the weatherproofing :)

Not about the D800, but with any of the folks shooting anything but a P & S, I am now testing my Ewa-Marine U-B 100 Underwater Housing. This is IMO such inexpensive insurance when we have a several thousand dollar investment. For example, with the D4, 16-35mm f/4.0 VR, last night in the ocean surf, the camera was dry even though I was soaked to the waist. But, a surprise shower began, and by the time I walked 100 feet to the motorhome, I was soaked all over and the Ewa-Marine was covered with water, camera inside and dry.
Another item which I will use, if the opportunity presents, is the LensCoat RainCoat Pro which will cover the Big Bertha when I attempt, and I mean attempt, a sunrise with 800mm. The salt spray and poor conditions around the ocean, suggest once more, protection of the equipment is always a good practice. And, the front of the lens will be very careful cleaned post shoot, so as to make certain no residue persists. Also, if the wind is in my face, off shore, the shoot will be cancelled, as I see no reason to have the wind blowing all the ocean crud on me and my equipment.

And this is how to make a mountain out of a mole hill when one asks about weather proof cameras, ha, ha, ha...

donaldejose said:
I am interested in a list of the lenses which will produce the sharpest image on the D800/800e.

So far I have not seen a list other than the one from Nikon. BUT I don't fully trust Nikon's list because I suspect Nikon is trying to push people into buying their most expensive glass when I suspect older and cheaper glass might be just as good.

I haven't seen Nikon's list - is there a link?

So far with playing this week, most every lens I own has been very good. It will be interesting to see. One I was a little worried about was the 70-300vr and from informal shooting, it has been just as stellar as I believed it was before.

I am interested in a list of the lenses which will produce the sharpest image on the D800/800e.

So far I have not seen a list other than the one from Nikon. BUT I don't fully trust Nikon's list because I suspect Nikon is trying to push people into buying their most expensive glass when I suspect older and cheaper glass might be just as good.

TaoTeJared said:
One thing I don't like (and haven't for a while with other bodies) is that the CF card door is not "locked" like my D300. I don't "feel" comfortable with just a sliding door. I'm sure my feelings will be proved unfounded over time though.

No problems with mine , it seems the same as the 700 and no problems with that in over 2 years

Beso said:
Interesting that you mention Auto ISO. I have had some difficulty with the Auto ISO and occasionally it seems to lock in at 6400 irrespective of lighting conditions, f-stop, or shutter speed. I have triggered Auto ISO accidentally too while shooting and am still not sure how that happened. The point here is that I don't particularly care for the noise level at anything above ISO 2000 (Yes, I am picky) on the D800. And, the loss of quality and detail with significant noise reduction in PP is not to my liking either. Consequently I prefer manual mode.

Perhaps I am doing something wrong or perhaps I am just to picky?

I'm still getting though the manual - still on page 10 as my camera is more interesting at the moment;) but I have to agree with you on the 2000 iso mark for clean images. Depending on the amount of stops of light in the scene, 32oo can work as well. I'm not sure which program PP is - paint shop pro? I use Nik and sometimes Noise Ninja. Both have always been better than LR, PhotoShop or any other "package" program I have used. Well worth the $$ in my opinion.

On the Auto ISO - and not knowing the conditions, my initial thought is that you have the auto iso set up in not the best way. I also shoot predominantly on "A" aperture & "M" mode and rarely on S or P. I have set the auto iso on, the "minimum shutter speed" to auto - with -1 mark down for VR lenses, and +1 mark up for non VR lenses. This has worked well as I don't have the steadiest of hands. From what I can tell so far, it works in Full stops for estimated shutter speed on "A" mode so it does kick the iso up fast. It seems to want to "error" on the "stopping shake" side of things which I prefer, but sometimes the iso is not what I want it too be, but probably was better than seeing some shake.

Bumping the Auto iso? Haven't seen how that could happen BUT I did find a new menu item that allows you to control the ISO from the back dial. "Easy ISO" I think it is named. I thought I would like it until I shot a whole series at iso 8000 in good lighting. Maybe that is what you had on? It's neat option that could have some uses but I fiddle with buttons too much for me to leave that one on.

sevencrossing said:
Exactly how good is the weatherproofing :)

Ummmm..... You will have to find another sucker with deeper pockets and less regard for their gear for that one. ;) It appears to be very good though. One thing I don't like (and haven't for a while with other bodies) is that the CF card door is not "locked" like my D300. I don't "feel" comfortable with just a sliding door. I'm sure my feelings will be proved unfounded over time though.

A big yes on the Auto ISO function. I will often set Shutter priority, just to stop people at 1/250th, then let the auto ISO and aperture be set as the camera thinks they should. Or set minimum shutter speed with Auto ISO, Program mode, and let it go. The new Pro Nikons are such amazing cameras. It makes getting good results so much easier.

I will be looking for some results from the 180mm on PAD with a full size available on Flickr or some other site.

Exactly how good is the weatherproofing :)

TaoTeJared said:
As I'm seeing now, AutoISO is vastly improved and creates a good balance.

Interesting that you mention Auto ISO. I have had some difficulty with the Auto ISO and occasionally it seems to lock in at 6400 irrespective of lighting conditions, f-stop, or shutter speed. I have triggered Auto ISO accidentally too while shooting and am still not sure how that happened. The point here is that I don't particularly care for the noise level at anything above ISO 2000 (Yes, I am picky) on the D800. And, the loss of quality and detail with significant noise reduction in PP is not to my liking either. Consequently I prefer manual mode.

Perhaps I am doing something wrong or perhaps I am just to picky?

I have a couple of lenses that are out resolved. Quite old ones though.

I took a couple of shots with the 70-300vr and I would say it is as sharp as I thought it was.

What I have noticed with every lens, is that shots are "sharper" - especially with VR. I'm thinking and noticing the new AutoISO is so much better, as in changing the shutter speed to match focal length, that all my shots are better. We have all seen the posts of people trying to learn to shoot at 300mm at 1/100th wondering why it is blurry as well as people shooting needlessly at iso 3200 and 1/2000 shutter. Both of which will take away from sharpness. As I'm seeing now, AutoISO is vastly improved and creates a good balance.

TaoTeJared, I don't have near as many lenses as you do but so far I've found all of my glass very to produce very nice photos with the D800. I've had to dial in some AF fine tuning with my Sigma 50mm f/1.4 just as I did on the D7000. I actually bought an extended warranty with that lens so I really should send it in to see if Sigma could do some adjusting on it.

I've tested video and have absolutely NO stuck pixels. That was a major issue with the new D7000. Video on this camera is like watching a very expensive HDTV in Best Buy.
I've tested all of my lenses for the left sided focus point issues. Focuses perfectly.
I read somewhere that the 70-300mm VR works even better on Full Frame cameras. I'm curious as to what you think. I sold mine last year because I wanted better performance that what I got with it on the D7000.
My D7000 now feels tiny in my hands after holding the D800. Will hold on to it for now though.

@msmoto - I keep holding onto the 180mm just because how sharp I think it is. Only the 60mm macro beats it in my eye. We will have to see. This sensor really grabs detail like I have never seen.

@golf007sd - will do & I wish I was closer. I Shot with the 105 quite a bit at the wedding last weekend - Images look great! Nice to have FX and use the intended focal lengths.

One surprise i have had is my little Tokina 17mm pro ATX. Not sure how old it is (picked it up used) but that thing is tack sharp and really low distortion! I thought for sure that would be one that wouldn't hold up.

Looking forward to your test TTJ. To bad you are not close enough, I let you borrow all my gear and have some fun.
As for me, I like to see some shots with the Micro 105 2.8 & 70-200 2.8 please.

Cheers...

If you have nothing to do, it might be interesting to compare the 180mm and two long zooms, 70-200 and 70-300. You have the analytical mind to do a nice comparison, I believe.

yeah, use the 35 dx in 1:2 mode on d800 and it works pretty well :)

That is one I will do for sure - actually I'm going to do all the 50mm-s with the sigma 30mm and nikkor 35mm 1.8 on the D300 & D800.

Interestnly enough the 35mm 1.8 actually works on FX. The vignetting turns it into a real "Moody" lens and I actually really like it.

Out of the options listed, I wonder the quality difference between the 50 mm 1.4D to the 1.4G model. I usually take pics like one I posted in the PAD this month, low light action. I have the 1.4D but don't plan on upgrading, this might give me something to think about.

Thanks for taking the time to even think about it.

Ok so some of you have seen that I ran across a D800 at a local store and picked it up. Now it is time to sell off a ton of stuff that I have been meaning too anyway.

While I have all my glass, I thought it would be fun to "test" a bunch of the stuff as well as my D800 - if not for anything else but to force me to really learn shooting and getting use to it. DX to FX is a change for sure but a welcome one.

I have about 5 days off here, So anything (outside of video as I have nothing set up for that) anyone want to see?

I may see if I can barrow a friends D7000 with the 18-105mm but as she is quite attached to it, I may not be able too.

I have Zero budget so please keep requests realistic and simple. BTW it is another scorcher here (about 100F with 20-40mph winds and 50-75% humidity-yep that's a Nebraska summer) so anything indoors is welcome. :)

Bodies:
FE2, Voigtlander R2, D50 IR, D300, D800, Fuji X100, Canon G11, Iphone.

Nikkor:
-1.7 Tele, 3rd party 2x
-Primes: 35mm 1.8G DX, 60mm 2.8 AFD, 85mm 1.8 AFD, 105mm f/2.8 VR, 180mm F2.8
-Zooms: 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6 VR (old VR), 24-85mm G ED (old-not VR), 70-200mm 2.8 VR, 70-300mm VR
-50mm: AF 1.4 D, 1.4 G | MF 1.4, 1.8 E, 1.8 | Zeiss ZM 50mm f/2 (rangefinder (Leica))

TOKINA:
17mm ATX-Pro, Tokina 12-24mm DX, 28-70MM f/2.6 (Angenieux version), 300mm f/2.8

SIGMA:
15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, 30mm f/1.4 DX

Rangefinder:
Zeiss ZM 50mm f/2, Leica 90mm f/4, Voigtlander 35mm f/2.5