I was playing around with the D800 yesterday morning using a Nikkor 60mm Micro lens on a tripod with remote shutter button. The subject was a fern taken about 6 inches away on auto focus.

First, I tried it with the mirror up and then used the remote on the tripod.
Next, I did a normal shot with the mirror down and the remote.
Then I pressed the shutter on the camera with the mirror up.
Finally, I pressed the shutter on the camera as carefully as I could with the mirror down.

As would be expected, the clearest image was when the mirror was up, on the tripod, with a remote shutter switch.

Everything else caused the 'double effect', which was only noticeable when magnifying at 100% or more after importing into PP software.

This camera really emphasizes my poor hand holding technique. I either need to practice and change how I shoot, or carry a tripod wherever I go. This is an incredible camera, and I hope to someday to able to utilize its power.

sevencrossing said:
there is an ease "button" on the LR4 brush, which i use for just this purpose

that said, I suspect layers are a lot more flexible

I did a lot of post yesterday, and the layers were the way to go.

That said, I love the new features in LR4, which is all I use for my industrial photos. I just installed LR4 at the sheriff's department for their forensic photos.

I've not printed portraits before and I'm disappointed in the output from my Canon 9500 mkIII printer. I've got to work on the settings or paper profiles. The monitor looks fine.

I find this camera shake concern pretty interesting. In fact, the D800 IS more likely to capture camera shake then say a D700. But you have to pixel peep. For any degree of camera motion, and given the same image, that motion is going to fall across more pixels with the D800 than with any other Nikon camera. However, if you don't have a camera shake problem now, then with a D800, while you may be able to resolve shake where you couldn't before, the images are still going to be sharper at any given print size than what you had previously. The D800 IS NOT more prone to camera shake problems, but it can resolve camera shake under conditions where lesser sensors cannot. This is an impressive feature... not an issue that should generate concern.

Wataru said:
....that I can erase around the eyes and hair.

there is an ease "button" on the LR4 brush, which i use for just this purpose

that said, I suspect layers are a lot more flexible

sevencrossing said:
If you have Lightroom, the skin softening brush is quite good and easy to use, it does not have the control you can get using layer and and masks in CS5

Thanks, sevencrossing. I actually tried that last night, but I think I'm going with using layers and a mask that I can erase around the eyes and hair. First I'll try printing "warts and all".

Wataru said:
I've never had to remove peach-fuzz from someone's face before using Photoshop, and I'm not sure how to do it yet.

If you have Lightroom, the skin softening brush is quite good and easy to use, it does not have the control you can get using layer and and masks in CS5

aetas said:
What I was getting at was at 12mp you never heard of focusing problems. Now that we are looking at 36 its starting to become a problem to some. I wanted to know in my case the only time I'm not able to absolutely dial in the focus would be a stage show. I have never had a problem at 12mp. If I was using the d800's 36mp for landscape work could I then just scale down the file to i think there is a 16mp file. Would that bring me about the same focusing as the d700?

I don't think I'm doing a hell of a good job explaining my question. Thanks for the help though.

If you don't have a problem at 12, then you would never have a problem at 36.

I spent some time yesterday evening photographing a prominent citizen here in my town. She is 93 years old and has the wrinkles, longish peach-fuzz, and blemishes typical of a mature woman. All shots were hand held using the 105 mm micro-nikkor outdoors using natural overcast daylight only.

Resolution! And more resolution! I'll have to do some work in post softening the images. I've never had to remove peach-fuzz from someone's face before using Photoshop, and I'm not sure how to do it yet. But the eyes look terrific, even through her spectacles. The white hair seems alive, something I've never seen, even in film. I will be looking at prints later today to see if what I can get on-screen can be printed. Actually, I don't want to remove the peach-fuzz and blemishes, but that's what the lady wants...

What a great camera. This much resolution makes for a different set of problems compared to not enough resolution, but give me the resolution.

aetas said:
Now that we are looking at 36 its starting to become a problem to some.

Hi aetas

Who is having a problem ??

I have a 700 and an 800. The focusing on the 700 is very good, but the 800 is, without doubt, much better

If you shoot at ISO 2500 the IQ on the 800 will be better than 700 but not by a huge amount. The big difference in IQ between the 700 and the 800 is at the lower ISO values

What I was getting at was at 12mp you never heard of focusing problems. Now that we are looking at 36 its starting to become a problem to some. I wanted to know in my case the only time I'm not able to absolutely dial in the focus would be a stage show. I have never had a problem at 12mp. If I was using the d800's 36mp for landscape work could I then just scale down the file to i think there is a 16mp file. Would that bring me about the same focusing as the d700?

I don't think I'm doing a hell of a good job explaining my question. Thanks for the help though.

aetas said:
This may be a stupid question so I apologize up front if it is. The MP would be amazing for some really detailed macro shooting and I know landscape work I would like it. Hell even for cropping when needed, but I shoot a lot of shows in a dark venue with stage lights. Right now I'm shooting with a d700. Settings are as follows for average. 2.8 200 iso 2500 Thats the speed to freeze a fast moving dancer on stage for me. A 36mp image is not needed for these events.

So now the question;-) If I choose to use a smaller file size, less mp would that help with focusing issues that some seem to be having?
Thanks in advance for all that help. Im thinking of pulling the trigger on the d800 but the d3s is still a viable camera for me. I love available light shooting and the d4 is out of the question. To much investment in a body for me.

No matter what the file size, you won't get more focusing issues or motion blur issues than a smaller image.

This may be a stupid question so I apologize up front if it is. The MP would be amazing for some really detailed macro shooting and I know landscape work I would like it. Hell even for cropping when needed, but I shoot a lot of shows in a dark venue with stage lights. Right now I'm shooting with a d700. Settings are as follows for average. 2.8 200 iso 2500 Thats the speed to freeze a fast moving dancer on stage for me. A 36mp image is not needed for these events.

So now the question;-) If I choose to use a smaller file size, less mp would that help with focusing issues that some seem to be having?
Thanks in advance for all that help. Im thinking of pulling the trigger on the d800 but the d3s is still a viable camera for me. I love available light shooting and the d4 is out of the question. To much investment in a body for me.

I have shot some 600 images with my D800 using a variety of lenses and I have not had any blurring problems. Yesterday I shot some longer exposures in shutter priority mode using a 24-70 f/2.8 with just a handrail or rock to brace against. Even at more than 1 second exposure the pictures were crystal clear. I have also shot considerable numbers of photos using my 14-24 f/2.8 without any blurring. Both of the lenses are non-VR so I believe that provides a good test. I have not done many low light or evening/night shots yet but I cannot imagine handdeld work being any different from any other camera. If the loss of sharpness is caused from the image moving off sensor pixel during exposure I don't see that it makes much difference whether the camera has 12 or 36 million pixels. Movement is movement irrespective of the level of detail.

Hi!

I got my D800 last friday. Upgraded from D7000. So far I did not see any issue with camera shake causing soft images. No difference compared to the D7000 in that respect.
I used it with 105mm micro, 70-300mm and 24-70mm zooms.

It is an amazing camera. Big improvement over the D7000

Best regards

Thomas

I've had the D800E for almost a month. While the most intense work has been for bird photography, I have photographed several events. I have not seen any problems with handholding as long as you are staying within reasonable shutter speeds. High ISO images sized for normal use are not a problem. Detail is spectacular.

Probably the one issue that requires a bit more thought is depth of field. Since the D800/D800E is so sharp at the point of focus, areas outside the focal plane are more noticeably soft. While this occurs with other cameras - especially FX models - it is more noticeable with the D800/D800E because of the incredible sharpness of areas in focus.

Q: Having problems with camera shake using the D800?
A: Not in the least. I'm shooting with a 24-120mm, a 70-300mm, and (the incomparable) 70-200mm VR II. No problems shooting landscapes or birds handheld. The results are sharp, even better than on my D7000 because the D800 AF is always right on the money regardless of the available light and my f/ setting. The one qualification: in FX mode, the focus of my 24-120mm is very sharp in the center, darn good but not great towards the corners, and unfortunately seems to be a bit off-centered. This defect initially escaped my notice in DX mode. However, I bought the lens at a discount from the local Nikon camera dealer who sold it as a demo/open box model, so I'm not complaining. The lens is perfectly acceptable for walking around and the D800 offers gobs of pixels for cropping out the junk parts.

PS: I do a bit of weight lifting for exercise despite my advanced age, so I'd advise anyone who is having problems hefting the D800 with a long lens attached perhaps to get themselves down to gym and bulk up! The exercise will dramatically improve your photography!

PPS: I just ran some of my D800 photos through the latest 64-bit version of DXO Optics Pro (Elite), version 7.5. The software appears to be substantially faster in processing NEFs on my Mac Pro 1,1 (2 x 2.66 GHz dual-core XEON 5100 chips) than the earlier Optics Pro version I was using and it really sharpens up the NEFs from the 24-120mm lens, even at the edges. On the other hand, the DNG files created by DOP are each 150MB in size, or 3-4X larger than the NEFs that came directly out of the D800 itself.

birdman said:
Tao -- that's crazy because I have exactly same dilemma with my Tokina 2.6-2.8. I got what I feel is an incredible deal on ebay last year - $250 shipped in MINT +++ condition!

This will make you sick - I got mine for $125 off of ebay. Poor title description and no one else bid on it. There is something about it that is different about it - can't describe it. Tack sharp, low contrast though, can hammer nails in concrete, and zoom is smooth.

SpiritShooter said:
...and follow shutter speed recommendations for the lens focal length you are shooting.

I would love to be in situations where I could follow that one! I take the scrappy jobs:)

I've been shooting for 40+ years, lol. I learned way back then from my dad how to hold a camera. He was a photojournalist, Leica, one of those who could meter with the naked eye almost every time.
The mass of the D800 (with grip and 24-120, a lovely lens!) makes it stable. Also the 24-120 is VRII and does a fine job. I shot about 200 frames yesterday in semi-cloudy weather, not a shake in sight. The D800 does exactly what it's supposed to, it's an INCREDIBLE camera. I've set it up to never go below shutter speed = 2x focal length (e.g. at least 1/100 at 50mm) and off you go. I let the ISO climb to 2200, not higher.

This is the camera I've wanted to hold for the last FORTY YEARS. I kid you not.

Footnote: I just shot about 1200 frames this evening to test batteries, reliability, shooting Continuous with af-c, etc.
I tried stuff like turning off the camera while it is still saving to memory from buffer, all sorts of nonsense. Pulling out cards and putting them in without switching off, etc.
Not a hiccup!
And the battery says 68% full after 1200 frames, some with flash, all with af-c. Now that is amazing.

With 2 cards in, 64GB each, a grip and 2 batteries, I could shoot for days, several thousand frames - at 36MP!!! Is that insane or not?
And one gets this miracle for $3000, I just don't understand it.

SpiritShooter said:
Have been shooting for over 35 years.

I have been shooting a D800 for the past few months. Also shoot a Leica M9, Hasselblad 903, and a Hasselblad 203. There is absolutely no difference handholding any camera as long as you use good hand holding technique, and follow shutter speed recommendations for the lens focal length you are shooting.

I am baffled where these myths come from. :)
Good shooting...

Gosh, for 35 years... well, I agree 100%. I cannot understand how these things start, except, sometimes our minds will trick us. It does seem to fall into a possible scenario, that the old film grain, and digital noise, would mask some "shake" from the operator. And, as we are able to resolve more precisely the image, this would make the camera shake easier to detect. However, while this may be true from a theoretical point, in practice, it does not seem to hold up, yet. I say, yet, because if laboratory tests were conducted, the better the resolution, the more apparent the camera shake becomes. Think, an out of focus image makes it very difficult to detect camera shake.

Now I have hand held, Nikon F's, Canon 7, Zenza Bronica, Hassleblad 500c's, even hand held a Nikon F with a 900mm lens on it. Back in the 1960's.

But, the primary point you make is so absolutely true. It is the technique of pushing the release button, how we hold, or cuddle the camera, our breathing in some settings, all which contribute to whether we have the proper shutter speed for the shooting conditions. And it makes very little difference if you are shooting a D40 or D800, if one punches the release like an elevator button....nuf said.

Thanks for the input...great topic TTJ

TaoTeJared said:
Thanks everyone for the info I greatly appreciate it!

Today someone uploaded a few hundred shots of an event very similar to what I shoot and almost all of them were iso 2000-6400 and they were incredible. I'm feeling much more comfortable from what all have said and what I saw. I use Nik for noise reduction and am really not worried about that for this stuff. The D800 will probably be the way I go unless I can get into some sports stuff this summer but I'm not counting on that this year. The little sports stuff I shoot, the D800 will cover it easily.

@cyclekraft - I hear you on the 24-120vr. I did rent one and used it for a 3-day event coverage and it performed really well and sold me on it. I don't have the steadiest hands so any help is welcome. I do have a full set of primes if low light does become an issue. I have been thinking of selling my 28-70 tokina f/2.6-2.8 (angenieux design) but I may put a higher price on it and keep it if it doesn't sell. It has been such a long time since using it on a FX body that I'll have to wait and see how it performs. I'm thinking the D800 will out resolve it - it is a very old lens design and is lacking compared to the new designs. There is just something about it's rendering of people that I just love. Just have to see.

To everyone, thank you again!

Tao -- that's crazy because I have exactly same dilemma with my Tokina 2.6-2.8. I got what I feel is an incredible deal on ebay last year - $250 shipped in MINT +++ condition! I am keeping it when I receive my D800. Unless it absolutely blows. I don't think it will out-resolve it. I used it on my D7000 and sharpness held up. I know MP difference between d7k and d800 but pixel-pitch is nearly equivalent. Everyone knows the Tokina is not at its best until f/4.0. From what I hear it's close to the old Nikon 28-70 and we all know that it still holds up nicely. Think how old the 135/2.0 or 85/1.8 AF-D lenses are....design is more important than year manufactured.

Have been shooting for over 35 years.

I have been shooting a D800 for the past few months. Also shoot a Leica M9, Hasselblad 903, and a Hasselblad 203. There is absolutely no difference handholding any camera as long as you use good hand holding technique, and follow shutter speed recommendations for the lens focal length you are shooting.

I am baffled where these myths come from. :)
Good shooting...

Thanks everyone for the info I greatly appreciate it!

Today someone uploaded a few hundred shots of an event very similar to what I shoot and almost all of them were iso 2000-6400 and they were incredible. I'm feeling much more comfortable from what all have said and what I saw. I use Nik for noise reduction and am really not worried about that for this stuff. The D800 will probably be the way I go unless I can get into some sports stuff this summer but I'm not counting on that this year. The little sports stuff I shoot, the D800 will cover it easily.

@cyclekraft - I hear you on the 24-120vr. I did rent one and used it for a 3-day event coverage and it performed really well and sold me on it. I don't have the steadiest hands so any help is welcome. I do have a full set of primes if low light does become an issue. I have been thinking of selling my 28-70 tokina f/2.6-2.8 (angenieux design) but I may put a higher price on it and keep it if it doesn't sell. It has been such a long time since using it on a FX body that I'll have to wait and see how it performs. I'm thinking the D800 will out resolve it - it is a very old lens design and is lacking compared to the new designs. There is just something about it's rendering of people that I just love. Just have to see.

To everyone, thank you again!

i have only had my D800 a short while but i have found hand holding be just as sharp as on a tripod heres an image i took yesterday handheld @ 2.8, iso 800 1/2000sec

full size image on flickr here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/orangeboxphoto/7240740928/sizes/o/in/photostream/

I agree flicker takes away. And i think of cameras as extensions of ones self. And as we've all heard its the Photographer and not the camera. That being said, its an amazing tool. All my downsized images to actually lose detail.
Why ? Because in the original you zoom in and still retains stunning detail. This camera begs for its photos to be printed on at least 16x24. Its breathtaking . And the noise imho is more like film grain. Up to a certain degree.

TaoTeared: As others have said, Flickr can not be relied on for consistent examples. I too browsed Flickr for D800 images and found good and bad. Insanely sharp 100% crops and horribly butchered shots as well. I have no doubt that the bad images I've found were due to bad technique and/or poor lens performance, not the D800's ability to capture sharp images with real-world hand holding. Again, most of my time with my D800 has been testing it in real-world shooting environments. I've been 100% satisfied with all images at 100% crop. I know when I've created a blury shot and most of them have been poor technique or too slow of shutter speed, which is no different than any other DSLR or film camera I've used.

The only thing I'd be concerned with is the slowness of the 24-120 f/4. I absolutely LOVE this lens. Sharp as a tack and gorgeous color rendition....BUT....f/4 is slow for low light and the D800 kind of runs out of usable ISO at 3200...unless a little noise is acceptable in your images then 6400 is good. If you're OK with noise reduction PP then you can bump the ISO past 6400, but you're going to get "photojournalistic" style images with grain/noise. However, if you want tack-sharp 100% or 50% crops in low light without much noise reduction then you're going to be limited to ISO 3200 at f/4, which can be tricky without adding strobes.