Can you PM me their link?

I'm in Nebraska and with the sparse population unfortunately there is no one in the area who does repairs anymore. I had a great shop in KC when I lived there that had been doing repairs since the 60's, but they finely went under in this economy. There is a great local shop but they send everything out and I have had a couple of lenses come back worse than they went out. They didn't work anyway but MF did and they were frozen when I got them back so I don't really want to go through them since I don't know who is touching it.

I am mechanically inclined so I probably easily fix it if it was just the matter of getting a part and replacing it or just making a spring. I'm amazed by how many repair shops rarely try to get parts unless they are new. Sad really.

Where are you located? I'm in the NYC area, and there is a really great old school shop in Manhattan called Photo Tech. AFAIK, this may be the last photo repair shop in New York City.

Years back the light meters in both my FTN and F2SB went south, and I went to a multitude (at the time, late '90s) of repair shops and they all told me they couldn't fix them because there were no more parts available for them.

I finally wound up at Photo Tech and they told me up front they may not e able to fix them, but they would at least take a look. Scored points with me right there. Got a call two days later with an estimate for both. I was stunned. Those meters had been dead for years and I relied on my Sekonic L-428 and Polaris SPD100 meters for exposures. They not only fixed them both, they re-calibrated the FTN prism to run on modern batteries. Needless to say, I was impressed. The meters still work to this day.

So if you're still in a bind for a repair shop that stands a pretty good chance of fixing your body, check these guys out:http:

Thanks guys I'll take a look when I get this roll out. Something seems like it wants to catch but doesn't so it probably is cog or something that is worn down. I'm sure it is probably is attached to the multiple exposure lever but the lever works as it should as well. I really do not want this one to go - love this camera. Next will be to find the part and replace it.

If anyone has any good parts or repair shops please pm me the link - it may come in handy.

Thanks guys.

Now that you mention it, Niko may be right about the lever. It was years ago that I sent it in to be repaired. I just remember them telling me to fix the housing and the problem would probably go away.

My FM2 has the same problem. I'm guessing that there is some small limiter connected to the winding lever which has either worn out or broken and as Niko I don't think that it is connected with the multiple exposure lever. I suspect that you can have it fixed at some old-fashioned camera shop that still has someone with the know-how to dismantle and repair such cameras.

I've solved it so that I advance the film right before the next shot, especially as I take the FM2 out when I really think that the scene is suitable to be shot on BW film. I do get the occasional empty frame but that doesn't bother me so much any more. I've also heard that with such mechanical cameras it isn't good to keep the mechanism cocked for a long period of time as it will tire the springs inside the camera.

TTJ

I would suspect the Mutiple exposure lever

The Nikon FE and FM series has a functional double exposure lever design. It permited single hand operation for virtually unlimited double/multiple exposures . it is just next to the film advance lever I think.

I do not have one any more, so I am going from memory, but it allowed you to cock the shutter with out advancing the film, the opposite of your problem.

maybe just maybe, this little lever could be the problem, check its operation

But the multi-exposure lever only resets the shutter. If it were stuck or engaging then it wouldn't allow the film to advance.

I have an FM2 with this issue. My problem stems from a small dent in the housing which in inadvertently triggers the multiple shutter release. Basically, replace the housing, fix the problem. I haven't fixed mine because I no longer shoot film, but the repair place told me that this would fix it.

Looking for some people who know some of the mechanisms of the old F systems.

I have an FE2 that I need some help identifying film advance issue. The issue is that the film can advance even without releasing the shutter.

Anyone know which part needs to be replaced or fixed?

Thanks for your help guys! The blank frames are killing me ;)