I have 2 B+W ND filters. The 110 and another one that only provides a few stops. I use both of them all the time and even have a pic where I used the 110 in this month's forum of daily pics. I use them for the motion effect and to get a small aperture on sunny days. One thing to remember when using the 110 filter is that you will not be able to see through the camera once the filter is on, so compose the picture first then put the filter on. I often get a reading for the exposure for a baseline then switch to manual and take some shots with different settings.

Can you not use a 77mm with a step down ring on your 62mm

There is a good article on water falls in Advanced Photographer ( a UK magazine )

Hmm I didn't think the Singh Ray would be that much. They are $340+ everywhere. I might stick with the B+W for now and I need two different sizes anyway. I was thinking the 62mm #103 for my 105 F2.8 and then the 77mm #106 for my 12-24. I would hate to add too many stops and not be able to use it. I think that would at least allow me to lower the ISO or stop down to get what I needed.

NikoDoby said:
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=1807
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=3392
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=730
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=3143

Thanks Niko. Didn't know the filters were the answer until others responded.

http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=1807
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=3392
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=730
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=3143

The only way I know to get the Silky Water flow as what tcole1983's post was asking is to use ND filters. Even shooting in low light does not work well as many times the water will turn clear with the lack of light reflecting. Often I find the exposure needs to be around 30 seconds. Faster shutter speeds just freeze the water and lower ISOs will may help but not much as it is just a stop or two, not the 4-10 stops that one more often needs.

Is Nikon's current lowest ISO 100?

On a side note, a quicker top end shutter speed would help with way too much light as well- I think the earliest Nikon DSLRs, maybe the D1 series, had a shutter speed of 1/16,000.

If you are using an ND to use a wide aperture, then I can see the advantage of the variable filter
But if would want a long exposure, the extra 2 stops of B+W 110 is going to be an advantage
With 8 stops 1/125 becomes 2 seconds a bit short to “smooth” water
But with the B+W 110 1/125 becomes a more useful 8 seconds
Some esoteric photographers suggest exposures of at least 30seconds, so working during golden hours seems to the norm
I am a newbie to long exposure seascapes, but my best shots, so far, have been after sunset
If you have an iphone there is a useful App called Long Times

This is why I've complained about them not putting an ISO 25 and 50 (even if it is not base) in all of their bodies... Too many Neutral density filters to carry around...

any comparison between singh ray and B+W?

they only sell them in 77mm and 82mm sizes so most likely you will use the 77 as its cheaper by a little bit and fits the most lenses out there. you could also use step down rings to make it fit a bigger selection of lenses but most of mine are the 77mm size. good luck.

You can get them directly from singh ray if you are in the US or from the Camera Store in Calgary as they are the canadian distributor.

Cool. Thanks for the info...I will have to take a look at them then.

Just have to decide which lens I want them for...

the singh ray vari nd filters are amazing, great for long exposures, getting movement and shooting wide open.

Fargo911 said:
If price isn't an object, you could go with something like the Singh-ray vari-nd, which goes from something like 2 to 8 stops in one filter by rotating it like a polarizer. (The bad news is that they are like $250) If you are just looking to experiment, and don't want to spend that much money, you could get probably a 2 stop and 4 stop nd, and then stack them if you need to (of course depending on how high quality you go, you could start to push into the price of the Singh-ray).

Didn't think about a vari-ND filter. I know they are expensive. Thanks for the tip, I might pick one up myself.

tcole 1983
If stacking, beware of vignetting, especially with wide angle lens

CaryTheLabelGuy said:
You'll need to experiment with different ND filters until you get the desired effect.

If price isn't an object, you could go with something like the Singh-ray vari-nd, which goes from something like 2 to 8 stops in one filter by rotating it like a polarizer. (The bad news is that they are like $250) If you are just looking to experiment, and don't want to spend that much money, you could get probably a 2 stop and 4 stop nd, and then stack them if you need to (of course depending on how high quality you go, you could start to push into the price of the Singh-ray).

B+W 110 Neutral Density will give you 10 Stops. Do shop around, they are not cheap, but some some places are twice the price of others

You will notice a big colour shift.

I shoot RAW , use grey card and correct the colour balance in Lightroom 3

(The above works for me. but do a search, for other Filters and color correction options)

Neutral Density filter. This is about all you can do to take a few stops of light out of your shot. You'll need to experiment with different ND filters until you get the desired effect.

I was wondering if anyone had input on this. Several times I have been out to shoot and there is too much light. The two instances I am thinking of are trying to get the flow look in a river or waterfall, but even stopped all the way down the shutter length isn't long enough. The next is wanting to shoot at wide open or near wide open for a narrow DOF and there being too much light.

Is there anything that can be done? I tried setting the ISO to LO1 and it still wasn't enough. I know in the instance of the narrow DOF that stopping down usually will solve the light problem, but then I lose the DOF I want. I have no idea on the flowing water though.