You yourself said it best R8R. Nothing to see here.

Damn. People are snarky on here.

YES, I know I can get old 50mm lenses for it, I have one.

This was just an experiment. No lenses were risked or sacrificed. Relax.

What for? You can buy an old 50mm lens for around $50 to $60. Why risk F**king up a $200 lens? If you want to use any G lens on a film camera then you can buy an N series film camera for under $30 dollars.

Point was to hack this old film camera to use most any lens on hand. Just an experiment.

And the point was?...

Lol. Yep.

I think there might be a way to figure out via trial/error how to tape the tab inside to a fixed location where a given max aperture might be, by setting it in place and opening the back and checking if the aperture goes max when the shutter is open in bulb.

First things first - light seals.

$20.00 for a full frame camera. Can't beat it.

Fail.

Hmm. Nevermind. No tab in the bayonet mount on the lens to set the max aperture (the lever inside the body).

Nothin to see here folks.

Did a search, could not find a post like this, but I'm sure I'm not the first one to think of this. Actually I'm probably the last person to think of this.

Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 G on a Nikon FG body.

Note the strip of gaff tape in this first pic. This holds the lens and the aperture indexing ring together.

Now note the location of the aperture index tab: right about where F22 would be with a lens mounted that had an aperture ring. (like the 50mm AI-S I used to double check this...)

Put the camera in P mode and bang...meter works perfectly. (in P mode, the meter will only work with the camera set to it's smallest aperture)

The trick is when mounting the lens, line up the dots and insert the lens, then tape the ring and lens together *before* rotating it to lock it. This will line up the tab about where it needs to go.

I'll post some test shots some other time once I get this camera all tidied up. (just picked it up and sent a test roll to the lab, might need the seals re-done)