With the crop factor in mind, I'd give the awesome 60mm Nikkor a shot. You'll get very nice macro shots right away! All the 105mm macro are also top notch. I have used the ais, D type and new VR models and they are all really something. The ais is quite cheap now about $300 used if you can find one. Also some feel the Tokina 100mm macro is the one of best macro lens available on the market. They run for about $300 used to $500 brand new! Very sharp, decent metal build. Lots of options for you don't worry! I'd go 1.) 60mm Nikkor 2.) 105mm Nikkor AIS (great practice with manual focus) 3.) 100mm Tokina. Good luck! :)

you would get better results with prime marco/micro lens :

Nikon 55mm manual, 60mm, 105mm, 200mm etc -top quality but expensive, for me at least. I have the 55 and it is fantastic, sometime you will wish it were a little longer, but great lens.

Tamron 90mm good value for the price. I have one of these.

now starting out, get it used and you can always spend more later.

Sigma, never used one, however, some people swear by them.

Thanks folks..
Ive been looking at getting a Sigma 70-300 macro lens any good?
Would this be a better lens as it has a macro specific function!
(ps. Sorry for caps work thing just need to cut the habit lol)

donaldejose said:
One more suggestion which requires some additional equipment.

For small still subjects indoors (like watches or rings) I like to use an off camera flash running iTTL with a Nikon SC-17 cord connecting the Nikon Flash and the Nikon camera. This allows me to place my light source to the side (as opposed to using the camera's pop up flash) and to control my depth of field by selecting the f-stop I want to use with the iTT flash automatically providing the correct exposure.

AN alternative for this : For small still subjects indoors, but also for shadowy areas outdoors, i like to use one of thes cheap battery operated led panels, they light your subject evenly , allow for focussing easier because your subject is alread lit, and you dont need a cable or transmitter , because its continues light ..

One more suggestion which requires some additional equipment.

For small still subjects indoors (like watches or rings) I like to use an off camera flash running iTTL with a Nikon SC-17 cord connecting the Nikon Flash and the Nikon camera. This allows me to place my light source to the side (as opposed to using the camera's pop up flash) and to control my depth of field by selecting the f-stop I want to use with the iTT flash automatically providing the correct exposure.

IT'S RUDE TO YELL! Turn the caps lock off!

+1 on donaldejose remarks. The two points below are the most important. You might also try the various flash modes (Normal, Rear) to help. In macro photography even small movements make huge differences. Shutter speed of 1/250+ for handhold is what I suggest.

2. Are you getting enough depth of field? Try setting your camera to A (aperture priority mode) so you can control the aperture. Then set the aperture (f-stop) to 11 or 16 or even 22 and take your photographs. This will make more of your subject in focus and that may solve the problem you are seeing in your current photographs.

3. Are you holding the camera steady enough? You may need to use a tripod or you may need to cut the flower and bring it inside where you can photograph it under more controlled conditions: such as no wind and the ability to lean your hands against books stacked on the table to steady your camera.

--On a side note: NO NEED TO YELL :) turn the caps off ;)

a dedicated micro/marco lens will help.

Nikon or Tamron.

Also, please do not shout.

THANK YOU SOME REALLY HELPFUL TIPS.. I WILL GIVE THEM A GO..

Be more specific on "just cannot seem to get the detail just spot on? Is good but not great"

I have the 18-55 VR lens had have taken great detailed macro shots of watches. I suggest trying this check list.

1. Are you ok with the closest distance it will focus? Do you need to get closer for the subjects you are photographing? The 18-55 lens should focus closely enough for flowers. It may not focus close enough for small bugs. If you want to get the lens to focus closer inexpensively you can purchase close up filters. They often come in a set of three. Just screw to the front of the lens and you can focus closer.

2. Are you getting enough depth of field? Try setting your camera to A (aperture priority mode) so you can control the aperture. Then set the aperture (f-stop) to 11 or 16 or even 22 and take your photographs. This will make more of your subject in focus and that may solve the problem you are seeing in your current photographs.

3. Are you holding the camera steady enough? You may need to use a tripod or you may need to cut the flower and bring it inside where you can photograph it under more controlled conditions: such as no wind and the ability to lean your hands against books stacked on the table to steady your camera.

4. Is the lighting hitting the surface of your subject from the side? Basically texture on subjects is shown by shadow detail and that detail appears greatest when the light illuminating the subjects is coming from a right angle to the camera. Try putting your subjects in the direct light coming into the house from a window and then shoot the subject from the side of the window (not shooting into the window) so the light hitting the subject is 90 degrees from a line drawn from the camera to the subject.

5. Do you need more light? You can get an assistant to hold up a piece of white typing paper pasted to cardboard next to the flower subject out doors to accomplish two things: block the wind to stop movement and reflect light back into the shadows of the flower.

6. Check you ISO settings. I have many Nikon DSLRs including the D3100. The D3100 is a great camera with a great sensor but I fund the upper limit of ISO which yields a clean (grain free) image is about 800 ISO. You can set your ISO to 800 for close up shots or you can set the D3100 to use its auto ISO feature but cap it at 800 ISO. I would try setting the ISO to 400 and shooting in bright sunlight in A mode with the f-stop set at f-16. This should allow the shutter to run about 1/250th of a second to freeze both subject movement and camera movement. You can try using a white paper/cardboard reflector to bounce some light back into the shadows if you have an assistant.

Try these suggestions and see if they help. You may be able to obtain what you want with technique rather than buying an expensive macro lens.

HI I HAVE JUST PURCHASED A D3100 DSLR AND 2 LENSES 18-55VR / 55-200VR..
IM NEW TO THIS SO NEED SOME ADVICE?
IVE BEEN TAKING SOME PICTURES AND GENERAL GETTING USE TO THE CAMERA BUT HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MACRO SHOTS..
ALL THO I CAN TAKE CLOSE UP PICTURES OF FLOWERS AND BUGS ETC I JUST CANT SEEM TO GET THE DETAIL JUST SPOT ON? IS GOOD BUT NOT GREAT IF THAT MAKES SENSE..
MY QUESTION IS SHOULD THE 2 LENSES I HAVE BE FINE AND ITS JUST ME DOING SOMETHING WRONG OR DO I NEED A BETTER MACRO LENS? IF SO SUGGESTIONS PLEASE..
IM NOT A PRO SO NO BIG BUCK LENS SUGGESTIONS PLEASE LOL
THANKS