Good point niko. That could make for a sad day.

If you rate it differently then the box don't forget to tell the lab to push or pull. Unless you are doing your own developing.

Well, I just ordered 20 rolls of good 'ole Tri-X. Haven't decided if I'm rating it at 400 or 800 yet (for an upcoming shoot with a model). I'll probably try both, I guess--but film ain't cheap! Going for that gritty, textured look.

I used T-MAX 100 for a long time. I have not put any rolls through in a long time also. When I say long time it is relative though=) I know some of you have forgotten more then I know. Or have at least had a camera longer.
~Cheers

Scoobysmak, those films are easy to order online but not easy to find locally. Ektar, E100G, Velvia 50, and Velvia 100F can be found at most well stocked local shops. Ektar 100 is a really good film as is E100G and E100VS. I'm not a big fan of Fuji films but I do like Pro800Z and some of of their Astia films.

You can also cross-process your slide film where they develop C41 film. Kodak's E6 films hold up fairly well to cross processing. I don't get crazy color shifts like I do with Fuji's film. Contrast isn't that bad either. I get my E6 slide film developed at Walgreens in an hour. You won't get positive slides(obviously) but the negatives are very useable. I pay for the negatives only and then do my own scanning.

If you want a good all round film then I recommend the new Portra films. Portra 400 is an especially forgiving film.

Hi All. @ Scobysmac: I own an use a F5 and some high res Nikkor glass and although I could shoot moon photos on film I just don't. I have "Super" Moon images shot on D90 with the 70-300VR biased on -4.0 which are quite exceptional. Although I have correspondents who photographed this large perigee moon on the horizon as I did, mine are still measurably better than theirs. First I am shooting in an area not troubled by too much extraneous light. I did notice with great interest that those images I did not even crop slightly as I usually do. The moon was maybe 14% larger but it was enough bigger with 300 (about 450 with full frame). I also shot it with the D700 on 300mm but prefer the APS picture.

I tried the sunny 16 rule as well for a couple but should have shot way more than one roll of 24 to get real results. Thanks for the input, I probably will shoot slides but I have been thinking and might just have to shoot some local drug store stuff so in a pinch I can get decent results (or at least be familiar with what can happen).

To get properly exposed shots of the moon, you should be using spot metering and nothing else. Alternatively, you can use the same exposure as you would for daylight, as the moon is essentially an object lit by direct sunlight.

As far as film types go, if you want slide film, I'd go for any of the fuji films (not astia is you're not shooting people). Each one has a slightly different color response, so you'd have to try them all to see what you like the best.

Well after my experience with the supermoon I have this sudden urge to put down my digital camera for a minute and get better with film. I over-exposed almost every shot of the moon, I used the meter in the camera both on matrix and center weighted and got the same results (I probably should have tried spot metering but oops). I believe part of my problem is just getting used to the film I am shooting with. I bracketed my shots with a stop under and over to try and get something but it wasn't enough. The shots I took before the event were not overexposed (this was me waiting my hour because of my stupidity, read the supermoon post if you want to know more on that one).

Way back in the day when I took a photography course in college we shot B&W film for our projects. Most of the class time was in the lab developing our own film. They wanted us to use the film in the bookstore, which I will say was cheaper on campus than going to the local camera store. I looked on Adorama's website and reading the ratings, a lot of films say they are being discontinued but Adorama must have some remaining inventory left. Is there a way to find out what films will be made for a while and not just some overstocked stuff laying around.

I just want to get a good film that will be around for a while so I don't have a learning curve to deal with next time I get my film camera out. I will shoot print or slides, prints would be way easier to deal since I have no one local to develop slides. But, if I am going to shoot film I want to do it right and I am willing to send my film off to be developed.

I realize that if your crystal ball is anything like mine its broke, but someone must have a better idea than me what is happening with film (like people that shoot it all the time). One other point that might help is how easy are some of these to find (like in a pinch, or do I have to order 4 months in advance)

some stuff I have looked at:

Print film:
Fujicolor Superia Reala 100
Kodak Ektar 100

Slide film:
Fujichrome Velvia RVP 50
Fujichrome Velvia RVP 100F
Fujichrome Provia RDP III 100F
Kodak Ektachrome E100VS
Kodak Elite Chrome EB 100
Kodak Elite Chrome Extra Color EBX 100
Kodak Ektachrome E100G

So you get a feel of the purpose and direction that might suite me best, most of my work will be landscape/nature stuff, car shows (cars with wild paint jobs that are highly colorful), architectural work, and a bit of micro along with all this. The occasional person will appear but not planning weddings or "people" events. If the work I do does not fall under this category then it would be action shots, things like NASCAR or even water skiing. I doubt I would use film for this but if I got enough light why not.

I will probably buy like 3 or 4 rolls of each because everyone has there own "taste" of what they like but if someone can point me out in the right direction it would be appreciated.

Even reading descriptions, it's hard to know how each film will react to all the situations you'd use it in. I'd say to try shooting a few rolls of each in similar situations and see what produces a better look for you.

Tri-X or T-Max?

I forgot where I asked this before. If you want edgy, gritty, grain, but with high acutance, it's Tri-X, right? Didn't some complain that T-Max film grain is too "soft?" I know someone's favorite here is Tri-X rated at 800, developed in Rodinal (used to be mine, too), but I have to process commercially, so no Rodinal.

Before my first DSLR (D70), I used to shoot Fuji color negative. Then, I switched to Kodak's "consumer" line of high-speed color negative stocks. Now, I'm really only planning to shoot film in black and white negative. I have a "brick" of Tri-X, just waiting to be exposed!

I have tried to love Ilford but just can't :( I really like Tmax for black and whites just nice and simple, although I do love the grain of other films. I like provia for slide as well and Velvia 100. I haven't been able to pull off Velvia 50 over the years, as its too contrasty for me and lots of failed attempts with it unfortunately.

Well, up to about 6 months or so, I've been using up my supplies of generic C41 film (which actually turns out to be Kodak gold rebranded) with ok results. Now, I'm switching over my film shooting to E6- so far I've shot the 3 of the main fuji films (velvia 100f, provia 100f, and astia) and I've gotten interesting results from all of them, provided you use them properly. I have to agree with some of the earlier statements about slides- there's nothing that can equate the look of the slide, especially medium format or larger. It's not just about the colors and the exposure latitude, there's something about it that makes it seem more real, and more sharp than any print or display I've seen.

Now a question for all you B+W aficionados out there, what films do you use and why? I'm curious because I'll be taking a B+W film course over the next while, so I'd like to know what other people are using.

Kodak Ektar 100. You really have to try hard to see the grain in this negative film. May not be ideal for portraiture, the colors are just that intense. I really have to try Kodak's Portra films. I have shot a roll of Fuji Velvia 50 but I haven't developed it yet. I have seen scans of this that are incredible though.

Prints as in 3x5s, I don't really print larger than that because I've really only developed 2 rolls of film at a lab.

I didn't know you could develop slide film like regular film, I thought they ended up like slides like Kodachrome does, which is why only a few places do Kodachrome.

Good to know that sort of stuff.

Just prints? Or develop? Not too many places develop E-6 film. You'll most likely have to send it out in the mail to get it processed. Or you can cross-process it. Which means you can develop your slide film as C-41 film which is the common type of film they develop at 1hour photo labs like CVS or Walgreens. Depending on which film you use your colors will be off or overly saturated. Lots of people like that psychedelic look and always have all of their slide film developed in C-41 chemicals. Some E-6 film is a bit more tolerant to cross-processing and the only difference you'll see is stronger contrast and not much if any color shifts.

As for getting prints from slides not too many places do that either. You'll have to mail your slides to a prolab. I just scan my slides and then take my digital files to CVS for prints. You can get prints easy that way.

I know I asked this in the other thread, but perhaps it's more appropriate here- how hard/easy is it to get prints from slide film?

There's only one ISO 1600 film currently available, Fujifilm's Superia 1600, and it's being discontinued. It's a C-41 film so any pharmacy or supermarket photo lab can process it in an hour. Not very many 3200 films left either. Don't expect smooth noise free photos like from your D3S or D700 at that ISO. Film at that speed is very grainy but then that's why they are appealing.

My favorite films are basically anything from Kodak. I prefer their color rendition to Fuji's. I like the usual films from Kodak such as all of the Portra films (I haven't tried the new Portra 400 yet), all of the E100 series and Elite Chrome slide films, and I like Ektar 100. I have recently been shooting a lot of the Ultramax 400 and 800 films. They are "consumer" film but to me they give pro results and they are very easy to buy locally at my corner pharmacy. It also helps that they've been on sale for several weeks now too. It's great film at a great price.

I like shooting old expired films too. I recently bought a bunch of bricks of expired Lucky and Solaris film. For B&W I like too many to list.

I just like film :^)

Oh and software doesn't even come close to the actual "3D" feeling film can give you. There's more to it then just running your digital files through a plug in to give them the "film look". Nothing beats the real thing.

What does anyone use for 1600 or 3200 film? - BW / Color. Any drawbacks on processing?

aslightdelay said:
The rate things are going, the next ten years' worth of change will come in five.

Unless you have proven yourself with a time machine, please explain. :D

I had shot 2 rolls of Fujicolor, I've got a roll of Kodak Ultramax I have yet to process.

smarterchild said:
I just find it so weird that those boxes are gone so easily and a legacy is gone, and now kodachrome. Two of the most popular films when you were growing up for alot of people. I just hope there isn't that many changes in the next 10 years like there have been this last 10 years.

The rate things are going, the next ten years' worth of change will come in five.

TaoTeJared said:
In one word - Yes.

Tao,

I downloaded the 15 day trial and will be using it next week "in anger" so I'll find out soon enough!!!

Thanks.

broxibear said:
You tend to find a particular look and feel you like and use it as a starting point, well worth getting.

Broxibear...

Looks like I'll be heads down for a few days getting used to it then!

I am going to be on location for a few days next week where there are a LOT of old warehouses and abandoned factory type buildings. Sounds like a good chance to mess about making some moody B&W shots using it.

Thanks.

bjrichus said:
Take it easy - don't forget to use a box of Kleenex, I don't think the Nikon Rumors web server disk drives can work with all those tears... ROFL...

My despair bringing on a frenzied bout of delerium, I frantically searched my office for any signs of unused Kodachrome, weeping profusely at the though of never having an exposed positive created from it's wonderful emulsion again. Alas, I have found several rolls - one with an expiry date of 12 years ago !!!