sevencrossing said:
I would start by getting a trial version of LR3 . . .

Yeah, I was just reading the other thread ("Alternative RAW Converters"), and LR3 seems to be pretty popular, and is likely the best end-to-end solution, requiring the use of other applications only infrequently. Also, apparently Capture One has upped their game in their current release, and has some notable features, according to other members here. Although LR3 provides an attractive end-to-end solution, for RAW conversion, I'm still wanting to go with either NX 2 for both its native Nikon color profile support and comprehensive Nikkor lens correction database, or DxO for its excellent perspective control. Then use the plug-in versions of both Noise Ninja (also available in stand-alone, and Aperture plug-in versions) and BlowUp 2 (only available as a Photoshop plug-in) for CS5, for final output files. Since I'm only processing selected files for Durst Lambda output and/or digital pre-press, this workflow shouldn't be too cumbersome.

So my revised list of new OS X software may be:

1. Nikon Capture NX 2
2. DxO Optics Pro
3. Noise Ninja plug-in for Photoshop
4. BlowUp 2 plug-in for Photoshop
5. Adobe CS5 Design Premium

I would start by getting a trial version of LR3
other than CS5 I have not used any of the other programs you mention
Once your presets and preferences are sorted in LR3, it combined with CS5 does the business for me

sevencrossing said:
search for "adobe lens profiler" this seems to be a data base of profiles created by other photographers but not yet "certified" by adobe
(I use it in LR3 not CS5)

Thanks. There are just so many options, I'm getting a bit overwhelmed. I would like to opt for NX 2, but I would also like to use DxO and Noise Ninja. Of course, I eventually need to buy an OS X version of CS5 to replace my aging Windows licenses, but damnit, I need the "Design Premium" suite, because I also need InDesign and Illustrator. So, this is all adding up to quite a bit of coin. I'm also not completely clear on my intended workflow, using multiple apps.

I almost forgot. I still need a cataloging application! Now where does this fit into my workflow? I'm currently using the previous version of Aperture, but I think Lightroom may have more powerful features.

So, I'm probably going to get the following:

1. DxO Optics Pro for its powerful perspective features.
2. Noise Ninja for its leading noise reduction algorithms.
3. Alien Skin's Blow Up 2 for making gallery-sized enlargements from my 12MP D3s files.
4. Either the new version of Aperture or Lightroom.
5. Adobe CS5 Design Premium.

However, I do like the fact that NX 2 already has the Nikon profiles (or whatever they're called) already built in, so your colors look "right" as soon as you first open the NEFs. Anyone here who owns NX 2 able to make any additional arguments for getting it? Also, some have commented that NX 2's noise reduction is superior to CS5's, so that may be another rwason to go Nikon. Can anyone comment on NX 2's noise reduction capability vs. Noise Ninja's?

studio460 said:
Old thread, I know, but it seemed the most appropriate place to post this:

...... What I found frustrating with CS5, was that none of the lens correction data seemed to be up to date.

search for "adobe lens profiler" this seems to be a data base of profiles created by other photographers but not yet "certified" by adobe
(I use it in LR3 not CS5)

@studio460: I guess Capture NX 2 was not included due to the fact that the tool is not a general purpose RAW converter, but one tailored to Nikon RAW files.
(If I'm not wrong).

Old thread, I know, but it seemed the most appropriate place to post this:

I just downloaded Nikon Capture NX 2 this evening, since my stupid CS5 trial period has finally ended (all of my Adobe licenses are for Windows machines, which I don't use anymore, since I switched to OS X). I really like many of NX 2's features. What I found frustrating with CS5, was that none of the lens correction data seemed to be up to date. For example, there was no preset for the AF Nikkor 14mm f/2.8. I know I can plug values in, but I'd rather everything just be there already. So I installed the OS X version Capture NX 2, and of course, all of the lens correction actions just "happened," without a hitch. This got me wondering . . . there must be other image applications out there beside NX 2 and CS5 that I'm not even aware of.

So I did a quick seach and found twinpixel's "RAW Deathmatch" article. Basically, a review of Lightroom, Bibble, Capture One, and DxO. All of the reviewed versions have been updated since the time of that writing, but I was very interested to learn of DxO Optics Pro's amazing perspective correction features. Okay, so I finally listened to you guys, and I'm starting to shoot RAW + JPG now. I just got two 16GB CF cards from B+H today, so I could shoot with both 16GB and 4GB CF cards in my D3s' dual card slots, for simultaneous RAW + JPG capture.

Anywho, I read the twinpixels' review, and it really was an eye-opener. Again, I really had no idea these types of programs even existed. Bibble scored high marks for noise reduction, but that's thanks to its integrated Noise Ninja plug-in, which I suppose I could buy separately (but then I would have to apply it in CS5, after RAW conversion?). Both LR and Bibble scored high marks for colorimetry as well. As I said, the lens correction and perspective control features in DxO really seemed worth the price of Optics Pro alone. But Capture NX 2 wasn't included in the review, and there seems to be some general thinking that software from Nikon, made for RAW conversion from files by cameras made by Nikon, has some benefits.

I forgot to mention a few things:

I shoot everything in RAW format and all settings (WB, ISO, Shutter, etc.) is done Manual. (I shoot with a D3 primarily.)

When I said raw, I meant "raw as in unedited straight out of the camera" images.

Sorry if I caused any confusion.

Hello all. I thought I'd chime in on my method of workflow.

Day of event:

Sync camera times.

Shoot event; delete trash photos on the fly when possible.

At event upload into Aperture on Macbook Pro and on to two Western Digital 1TB portable hard drives. (3 copies of raw images at this point.) If possible upload every 75-100 images.

Delete card. (Usually I won't unless absolutely necessary. I do not count this as a copy of the images.)

Home process:

Export from Aperture the event on to two more Western Digital 2TB hard drives. (5 copies of raw images now.)

Edit in Aperture basic tweaks.

Export onto the last two 2TB drives and delete the raw images on one drive only. That way only the keepers are one of drives and then the second drive has both raw and keepers.

Edit in Photoshop CS4.

Again refresh the two 2TB drives.

Burn 4 separate DVDs. Here are where they go. 1-On site copy. 2-Client copy. 3-Off site copy (safe deposit box at bank) 4-On site safe.

Upload keeper images onto Windows Skydrive (free). 1 account is always for my business. Then make an account with password to give client for immediate viewing and download once payment is delivered.

Delete raw images from the first two 1TB portable drives and delete CF cards if not already done.

Delete project from Macbook Pro.

My workflow (using Photoshop CS4 or CS5) is to bring in the RAW images as smart objects, and whatever sharpening is needed becomes a smart filter. Colour edits if needed are done in camera raw, otherwise, I've preset white balance. It's a habit I've had for a long time. Although auto-white-balance in the cameras works better these days, I never trust it, I manage that myself for predictable results.

If I need to edit contrast, I just drag the black/exposure sliders while holding ALT. You can see when detail is blown out or too dark quite easily.

Dust spots, if I need to do anything with them is simply adjusting the black slider in Camera Raw to around 50 or 60, and then dragging the image about in a circular motion (100% size). Dust spots are easy to see like that - and you can then use the dust removal tool in camera raw to get rid of them, and then reset the black slider when you've finished. But generally I don't have too much problems with dust - I keep the sensors clean with blowers or otherwise, for nasty dust spots, I'll clean it properly the same way Nikon does themselves. It's not too hard - just scary the first time.

I don't normally need to do much editing of my images in Photoshop - they are pretty good right out of the camera. And I hate editing things in Photoshop - it's a time consuming but necessary evil and I'd prefer it takes as little time as possible.

Even better, Vall, is how you can highlight multiple photos in develop and sync all or part of the settings to all of the selected photos. Here's a list of tips/shortcuts I wrote to one of my friends who was just starting with Lightroom:
D to go to the develop window
G to go to the library window
L to cycle through light dimming settings
F to cycle through window settings (fill, I guess)
shift+Tab show/hide all menus
1-5 rate picture
Use the target button for hue/saturation/lightness: you click on the target, then click and drag up or down on a pixel of the color you want to change.
Use the dropper for white balance by clicking on a gray spot on the image after picking up the dropper.
hold down alt as you sharpen to see the sharpening in black and white. Also (one of my favorite features), hold it down while changing the sharpening mask to see what you're actually masking from the sharpen.
to sync settings, you highlight a group with the one that has been edited superselected (if that's the word I want), then click "Sync..." at the bottom and choose which settings to sync.

Thanks a lot for all the info, really useful clues here! (yeah, digging out the old topics)

Do you keep profiles for shooting condidions (for example, you often shoot concert lights, in a specific place - still lightning conditions, etc?

I just shot a family party and are digging through the RAWs slowly.One thing I found great in Lightroom is that you can actually copy your develop settings and paste them to another photo. Then just tweak the settings you need and you're done!

Very informative. Thanks!

NikoDoby said:
Like, Zoinks Scoob!

[jonny rolls eyes]
Yes, lightroom should be plenty, especially the production version that corrects geometric distortion (the beta already corrects CA).

DxO: and I would have gotten away with it, Niko, if it weren't for you meddlin' kids. (couldn't help myself)

Welcome to the forum, scooby.

Like, Zoinks Scoob! You don't need to run every photo through DXO. Lightroom alone will do just fine. Download the free Lightroom 3 Beta and try it for yourself.

Well I haven't started a "work flow" per say but I am wondering what people would think about the following:

1. Use NX2 to open the files and adjust any camera settings that I might have messed up then transport to LR 3
2. Use LR to finish processing and have DXO as a plug in to correct lens and chromatic problems (according to DXO website it can be used like a plug in but would love to hear from someone that uses this setup).

My question is if DXO is used as a plug-in to LR will it have all the features or will I miss something. Am I better off using NX2, send to DXO, then finish with LR. My main question would be if DXO can open the file that NX2 has put out. Maybe I am thinking to hard but any advice it appreciated.

It is a process I prefer more to simply downloading CF cards, jonny, and while I don't particularly enjoy doing the darkroom work nearly as much as I do shooting my film, it still gives me a little bit of a connection with my photographs :)

I have to admit that reading your workflow makes me think I'm missing some kind of connection to my photos, Chris. It makes me nostalgic for working with slides on a light table with my dad as a kid. If I am ever filthy rich, maybe I'll buy a darkroom, etc. (not for chromes, probably... ;-)

My workflow is as follows:

If black and white, process exposed film myself in suitable chemistry (Acufine or DD-X for pushing, D-76 for standard, Perceptol for pulling and ultra fine grain) , if color, take it to CRC for either E6 or C41 processing.

get back chromes/negs

evaluate them on a good light table, outline promising frames in red china marker on the printfile sleeve or on the contact sheet if I've bothered to make one.

make work-prints on 5x7 RC paper/ make decent scans of selected frames, perform any color correction or contrast balancing in PS.

digital:
If destined for digital printing, save out full size tiff file at roughly 6000x4000px for 35mm, or larger for medium format, if intended for web use, resize long edge to 1920, high-pass sharpening, upload.

traditional:
evaluate work print, make variations on other 5x7s, pick the best work print for upscaling into an 8x10 or 11x14 finished print

if on RC, adjust f-stop timing to suit the new enlargement size, perform any dodging and burning necessary which has been predetermined by work prints, and dev,stop,fix,wash,dry. Then mount or file in archive.

if on fibre, adjust the f-stop timing, dodge, burn, slight edge burn, dev, stop, fix, wash, fix, final wash, toner, final rinse/dry. flatten and mount, done.

Hmm... $100 is quite a lot, let me play around with Photoshop a bit longer and let's take a look in a bit.

Thanks a lot!

I processed it in LR3beta2 (I have to say that I'm on my laptop outside, so I wasn't sure I could see it very well. It looks like Pete's to me):

I'll bet LR3 will be out next month (June) and it's only $100 for students.

Just google nik dfine to find it. It's $100, though, and yes it's a PS/LR/aperture plugin. Try the noise reduction sliders in lightroom beta 3 v2. It's free and it's pretty impressive.

Thanks a lot for the tips and the critique guys.

How exactly do I get DFine? Is it a plugin for Photoshop?

have to agree with our Golde Child, that it would look nice after cropping - use the 16:9 format, w/o changing the base - it would look very good

If you do this again, your lens is very sharp at f2 this and at that distance I think your DOF would still be OK. This would allow a lower ISO setting.

Just bought the lens, like the lens actually

Pete

Yup, this is NYC, from up on top of the Empire State Building. I shot this photo from the 86th floor. I also went up to the 102nd floor. Although the view is wonderful up there, keep in mind that you will be shooting through glass- it's fully enclosed, unlike the 86th floor. But the 86th floor, there's also a lot more people, and it was incredibly windy, another reason for the high ISO.

RAW + jpg would be a good idea, but it's a slow camera as it is.

Yes, I used a high ISO because I had to shoot hand held- also because I screwed up- I left auto ISO on, and it picked 3200. That was a bad mistake. I tried to prop the camera against the railings as it is.

Cropping out the sky sounds like a great idea, but wouldn't that end up in a weirdly shaped photo that would end up more like a panoramic photo?

One more thing- any recommendations on lenses? A long zoom would be nice. The one bad thing is that they don't allow tripods. I took this with a 35mm 1.8 at F/4.5.

Still need to learn a lot about Photoshop, thanks a lot for your comments!