Thanks to all :)

Yes, i use Raw and that is a good advantage :)

I actually found the manual online at Nikon. I also have all the manuals d/l to my Mac in PDF from Nikon. I have never once opened the paper manual of a camera.

Heck, even my Dad's Kodak Retina IIIc has a manual. Thing is so tiny I just downloaded a copy from the Intertubes.

Later,
Jeff

I think @jforham is right, but whatever it does in camera, this is yet another reason for using RAW, as no matter if a shot or even a series is a little bit out, its really easy (should be the first step IMO) to correct in post before you do any editing, cropping, effects and final conversion into JPG for use...

By the way, a 'mired' is a unit of measurement: "MIcro REeciprocal Degree"... just thought and I also don't have a manual to hand (who does at 6:45am), but I just can't get it out of my mind that the amount of change is actually a decamirad (ten mirads)?

[That's what comes from being a nerd, in that you know these useless things - and are prepared to get it wrong in public too] HAHAHAHA...

A = Amber
B = Blue

Each step is ~5 mired.

Later,
Jeff

Long time no post here :)

I'm going now for a flowers photo session next to Megido(Armageddon) here in Israel, and playing with the camera, I re-discovered that Auto WB can be also configured :)

The possible values are: A6, A5, A4, A3, A2, A1, 0(Default value), b1, b2, b3, b4, b5, b6.

What are the meaning of these preset values?

I can't RTFM because I do not have the D7000 manual next to me (later at night I will take a look on the manual).

I guess that the Auto WB tuning is similar than the one on the D7Ts (D70s), that you could add or remove small steps to the Auto WB.

Do you use fine tuning on the Auto WB settings?

Have a nice day to all.

Here's another rbid. I actually did this one 1st.

@weatherfreak: That is nice.. thanks for the links :)

Here's one of my pics

PS. If you have NIK software that you tube video showing the white neutraliser from color efex pro 3 or 4 is FANTASTIC to remove the last of the wrong hues.

Hey rbid, here's some sites that got me going. I'm NO IR expert at all, actually I only started doing it about 4 weeks ago.
I can't seem to post a pic. I'll read the stickies again see where I'm going wrong.

These sites helped me too:
http://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-photoshop-videos (I found a lot of life pixel pages help me)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_7K6wGqKYQ (this one helped me the most actually, don't blame me for the music)

http://digital-photography-school.com/forum/tutorials/86765-good-tip-infrared-photography-white-balance.html (I don't know why or how this works, but this is where I got the CWB trick from and it works really well for me!

weatherfreak said:
If you're prepared to go thru the motions with post using Capture NX2 to remove the red hue. I use a custom WB from a still with the R72 on. The majority of the photo has green in it. The midday sun thing NEVER worked for me.
I then open it in Cap NX2, open white balance, I then set a grey point from the drop box. Hit start and use either a marquee square or set point, give it a second to calculate the new WB and your off. Channel mix if you so desire. You might need to adjust further.
Good luck

Thanks.. I will use your advice :)

If you're prepared to go thru the motions with post using Capture NX2 to remove the red hue. I use a custom WB from a still with the R72 on. The majority of the photo has green in it. The midday sun thing NEVER worked for me.
I then open it in Cap NX2, open white balance, I then set a grey point from the drop box. Hit start and use either a marquee square or set point, give it a second to calculate the new WB and your off. Channel mix if you so desire. You might need to adjust further.
Good luck

@rbid - You might want to try a converted higher end digi cam. Cheaper and really when it comes down to it, you will be shooting in bright sunlight/day light all the time.

IR shooting in low light really doesn't turn out good (pictures) at all or I have not found anything that does. Due to the way IR works, there inherently is less minute detail and just edge detail so noise doesn't show up and you can blow images up a lot larger since a lot of surface details are smoothed out. 100% of my shots are at the lowest ISO, bright partly cloudy days and with foliage. So basically the camera's best performance settings. Personally I would rather have a G9 converted than my D50 since I'm always shooting at the base iso images and I would like to take it with me more when I'm shooting but I don't want to make room for another body.

@Kay Burn: Thanks for your advice.

I guess that a IR Modified D7000 is the best solution... but I'm not there yet (due to the lack of $$$).

You have excellent photos on your sets .. I'm still looking to find some IR photos there... thanks for sharing.

--- Ricky Marek

I know this thread is about a month old. But after doing a lot of research, I found some solutions...

Basically, you can convert your NEF files to DNG using Adobe's DNG converter, Then open it in the DNG profile Editor. (Both free to download from Adobe). DNG profile editor can do WB temps of far lower than 2000K. On the right side, choose the color "Color Matrices" tab and adjust the white balance of your image with it. (I slid mine ALL the way to the left and adjusted a few other settings slightly, your milage may vary). Once you have done it, save your profile (I saved mine as D7000 IR) and then chose to export it from the file menu.

Now when you open any IR file DNG or NEF in PS using ACR (Adobe Camera RAW), on the right side, click on the camera calibration tab (the one that looks like a little camera) and load the camera profile which you saved (Mine was D7000 IR). Presto, you will have the same WB setting as set as in the DNG Profile Editor. You will notice that the K value is also changed.... take no notice of it as you have "Recalibrated" it now.

I hope this helps anyone else trying to fiddle with doing this. It hasn't been easy trying to find this solution. I shoot a D7000 now and am picking up a modified D7000 next week. Will post my findings then. I did my tests using a cheap 720 IR filter with a D7000 and a Tokina 11-16 (no hotspot). You can find me on Flickr if you have more questions. Hopefully I may be able to help.

Cheers,
Kay Burn

NikoDoby - can you combine the other thread with this one? Both were very similar but had different info. It would seem to make since.

@rbid - I will have to look into that program. Thanks for the update!

This thread is too similar to the other IR thread you created and bumped rbid.

rbid, please don't bump so many threads with the same info. You posted this four times within a few minutes.

@TaoTeJared: I always learn something new from your advice. Thanks!

I found a free tool called IFRaw that I'm starting to play, and for my surprise, it allows to set WB in IR photos...

I will post my results here.

There is hope!... I just found a free tool called IFRaw which allows me to play with IR photography. (Other commercial raw converters do not allow to change the WB to the correct color/tint temperature of IR photos)

rbid said:
I will try to use my D70s NEF file and convert it to a D7000 NEF file, and see what I get. The only problem is that Nikon guys have encrypted the new way they store the WB on newer NEF files, therefore freeware tools that worked smoothly in the past, now they have problems to deal with it.

Unfortunately that will not do anything. The "smarts" are in the camera not the exported file. Examples: more accurate WB range, IR cut off filter, in camera software that handles/cuts IR, etc. The closest you can come with software is to shoot everything in RAW and then swap colors in PS or like program. I understand your associating the colors with WB but in actuality it is not a WB setting.

For normal photography, IR is really an issue with sensors and images. Great lengths have been taken to remove IR and some UV so resulting images are much better. End result? IR photography suffers. Since there are so few of us who attempt IR and conversion services are available, companies don't see this as an issue. I'm afraid you will probably not be able to do IR photography using a filter in the way you did on the D70s. I have heard of Canon's new releases having similar solutions applied that nullify IR photography.

I have been looking for options for my D300 since it's purchase since I have the same issues you are experiencing for a couple of years now, and I have never found anything other than a body conversion.

If you can find a way, please let me know.

http://dgrin.smugmug.com/gallery/1111417 - is a good basic tutorial for software manipulation.

Testing123 said:
Not to be pedantic, but the "low pass" filter when talking about bayer-pattern digital cameras is the AA filter, the one which "blurs", the one which prevents aliasing by attenuating those high-spatial-resolutions which would alias on the Bayer pattern, passing the low, low pass.

A filter over the sensor which blocks lower wavelengths, IR, would be a "high pass", allowing through the higher frequencies of light, the visible spectrum.

I assume there is a second low pass filter, one blocking UV, but that doesn't get talked about much and said role might be accomplished in other ways.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-pass_filter

Thanks for the correction, I am the one to blame for the mistake not TaoTeJared :)

TaoTeJared said:
I have no clue what the measured WB would be. The shift is so great that I don't think you could change it. I have tried using temperature settings and never got close. All the custom WB does is to shift color in the image and really is better on the computer than camera. I have noticed that the older cameras shift much more than new one's for sure.

Maybe the D7000 is "too smart" for the type of IR photography using external filters. I know my D300 didn't work well with the filters at all either due to the low-pass filter.

Yes, the software engineer at Nikon does not like IR photography :) (Just kidding)

I will try to use my D70s NEF file and convert it to a D7000 NEF file, and see what I get. The only problem is that Nikon guys have encrypted the new way they store the WB on newer NEF files, therefore freeware tools that worked smoothly in the past, now they have problems to deal with it.

Filter either way. Thanks for the correction.

TaoTeJared said:
Maybe the D7000 is "too smart" for the type of IR photography using external filters. I know my D300 didn't work well with the filters at all either due to the low-pass filter.

Not to be pedantic, but the "low pass" filter when talking about bayer-pattern digital cameras is the AA filter, the one which "blurs", the one which prevents aliasing by attenuating those high-spatial-resolutions which would alias on the Bayer pattern, passing the low, low pass.

A filter over the sensor which blocks lower wavelengths, IR, would be a "high pass", allowing through the higher frequencies of light, the visible spectrum.

I assume there is a second low pass filter, one blocking UV, but that doesn't get talked about much and said role might be accomplished in other ways.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-pass_filter

I have no clue what the measured WB would be. The shift is so great that I don't think you could change it. I have tried using temperature settings and never got close. All the custom WB does is to shift color in the image and really is better on the computer than camera. I have noticed that the older cameras shift much more than new one's for sure.

Maybe the D7000 is "too smart" for the type of IR photography using external filters. I know my D300 didn't work well with the filters at all either due to the low-pass filter.

TaoTeJared said:
Getting any camera converted is a gamble since there is allot that can go wrong. Try the green grass or (green paper) custom WB. A red card WB creates interesting results as well.

Let us know if that works.

Using grass on the non-converted D70s works.. but not on the D7000 (I guess this is due to the stronger low-pass filter (that prevents IR light to reach the sensor) and I guess that the software also do not allow wrong WB values (from the point of view of Nikon).

Do you know what is the custom color temperature recorded in an IR WB?