DJB 49 said:
. I have thought about replacing it with the 24-120 but would need to be convinced it really was better than the 28-105mm.

the 28 -105 get good reviews the advantage of the 16 -120 is its extra range;
I use mine a lot at both ends

but that may not be important to you

I have had a 16-35mm f4 which I have not used too much and which has given me oddly inconsistent results. So much so that I did a whole load of tests on it which look absolutely fine, so it must be me!

My normal 'walk-around' lens is a 28-105 f3.5-4.4 AF D that I bought many years ago for my F100 and which continually produces lovely sharp images, including in its macro mode. For a budget lens, I think it is a real bargain and I am happy to continue to use it on my D800. I have thought about replacing it with the 24-120 but would need to be convinced it really was better than the 28-105mm. I might hire one and see!

Mac The knife said:
I bought a D70s off of Ebay that ended up having a stuck shutter. While emailing the seller, I found a web page detailing what a guy did to fix his, and did the same, but without the scissors. I may have got lucky, but I kept the camera, and the seller and I agreed upon a 50 dollar refund.

That repair job only works of you're hoping that the stuck shutter will unstick itself. I wouldn't invest in a possibly dud camera.

Here's the webpage,,,, http://johnbagnell.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-to-fix-d70s-or-d70-shutter.html

I bought a D70s off of Ebay that ended up having a stuck shutter. While emailing the seller, I found a web page detailing what a guy did to fix his, and did the same, but without the scissors. I may have got lucky, but I kept the camera, and the seller and I agreed upon a 50 dollar refund.

You can get a very nice D70s or D50 from Adorama used for $150-200. For more money a more current body such as a D90 or other. Having an old body repaired is way too expensive. Once a body is several years old, unless it is a pro body, repairs are almost more than what it is worth.

Find another body. Take it for free. Working $120 - $200tops

framer

Hi Bob,

Welcome to the forum.

I would pass on that one if it were me. Presuming you would get it repaired, you would end up paying quite a lot for a really old tech camera. If you are thinking of getting it converted to infra-red, then it may be worth it but it doesn't sound like that's your plan.

Hi All,
I am Bob with an opportunity to buy a D60 (body only) with a known stuck shutter for about $50. I currently have an N2000 that does not work, no display in viewfinder with new batteries, but know that lenses will work on D60. Is this fixable, cheap, or should I look for another. Also will my lenses work on any other Nikon digital camera?

Cheers,
Bob

TaoTeJared said:
Alright I'll just state the real obvious point - It depends on the size of the room.

If the lens will cover at least 90 degrees, I think it will always cover at least 2 sides

Alright I'll just state the real obvious point - It depends on the size of the room.

I have a 17mm from Tokina and like it enough to hold off on buying a 16-35mm or 14-24mm. It just really covers everything. I just really like the size of a prime and the less weight. With 36mp, I can crop 1/4 of it and it's fine. I haven't had a 20mm for a very long time but when it comes to these, it really is a personal choice.

Hi , I have the 12-24 nikkor in dx format = to 18-36 FX and i can tell you that at the widest 12mm(FX/18 mm) that it does not cover the wall to wall 90 degrees of the room if you stand in one corner, it just misses by a frustrating few degrees! FX/17 mm probably will just make it.

Dutch, I kicked myself after I posted my question as I did just that, with my own 12-24. /facepalm ... It did not occur to me until I posted and unpacked my camera gear after my vacation.

Thank you seven, outside shots didnt show me how much of a room i would capture. The last sentence helped.

Oh well, I hope we all get a 1 dumb question.

the field of view of the 17 mm lens will be 93 degrees

the field of view of the 20 mm lens will be 84 degrees

At the risk of stating the obvious
it will not change if you are inside or outside

If you stand right in the corner of a room and look at the opposite corner, with a 17mm you should get both sides of the room in. With a 20mm you will not

mmm Buy or rent a Sigma 12-24 , and have all possible FOV's in that range available...

OR

Rent a Nikkor 14-24mm f2.8 and try all settings so that you can decide better which FOV serves you best...

Thank you everyone. The simulators were all outside shots however i appreciate the links. Thank you msmoto for the photo links.

Well, I just cannot find the 20mm in a room, but here are some examples at various focal lengths on a D4. Interior shots are much easier with the 16-35mm. Even the 24mm PC Nikkor struggles with interiors. And the 20mm is nice, but not quite wide enough. So, the examples:

16mm:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fantinesfotos/8075181300/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fantinesfotos/8058165156/meta/in/photostream

10.5mm

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fantinesfotos/8075189463/in/photostream/

24mm

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fantinesfotos/8190924355/in/photostream/

Of interest is the "angle of view" shown in the specs for the various lenses. To determine the horizontal "angle of view" take the published diagonal and multiply by 0.83 and this gives you the "real" angle of view.

I do love my 16-35mm f/4 VR Nikkor on the D4.

Nikon has one too:

http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/simulator/

Try this link. One of the tabs is for a lens simulator. It might help you.

http://syndicate.sellpoint.net/Syndicate/AptViewer?play=3IC67D-394249&1=1&ttpid=TTPID-22A-268&vsr_sku=NK1424AFS

I am thinking I want a wide angle for my FF camera. I keep going back and forth between 17 and 20mm ..

Does anyone have a 17 and 20 or 17-35 that could take a shot in a room to show me how much wider 17 is over 20 ? or know of a link where someone has done this. i did not have any luck with google, though did not go past page 10.

Thanks for any insight you can send my way.

I've slowly been accumulating spots on my D600 sensor, but these haven't been a major issue unless i'm taking shots of a uniform background.

Today though, about 10k actuations in my mirror seems jammed or locked and isn't raising properly/fully when shooting. Using the "lock mirror up" sometimes gets it about halfway and sometimes not at all. Bummer.

Its under warranty and I'll take it in tomorrow, but for a 6 week old camera that hasn't been knocked around it's frustrating -- but serves me right for being an early adopter, i guess.

Posting here as it seems potentially related to the the mirror box issues that are referenced earlier in this thread as a likely cause of dust/oil. Or i could just have a dud, or have accidentally dinged it without noticing.

Proudgeek has it exactly, some Nikon apprentice likes to munch his lunch on the assembly line and is a bit of a messy eater when he gets to the salad dressing......
Robin

On my D4, about 10,000 where as I cleaned about 70 spots off and I have not seen any oil spots since then and I am at nearly 17,000 clicks. It looks like this issue is being resolved... to the benefit of those who have a D600....

proudgeek said:
Funny that the person to whom the dpreviewer spoke said it was "lubricant but not oil." In this case, what's the difference? They're not using salad dressing.

...

I continue to wait. I've got to believe that eventually this will be resolved.

Graphite is one commonly used lubricant that is not oil.

See the main blog. It looks like 3K activations will shake off most of the "stuff" and you are good to go after that.

I have had both the dust spots and a few oil spots on my D600 sensor. You can see the difference under magnification. Those dark black spots are dust (or shavings from an uncleaned internal part) while the browner larger spots are drops of oil or lubricant which must be flinging off the mirror.