Yes, If you have it use it. I had a 270EX before I bought the sb700's and it worked in 1/1 manual (270 is like the 400).

The only possible problem would be currents when mounted on body. You might want to check the differences.

You may even be able to fire it with CLS. Off camera there is no danger of shorting it or your camera, so it may be a good way to go. Try all of the different channels and see if it is affected by the settings of the master (assuming you don't have a D3).

It will definitely be fine with a pocket wizard (a good excuse to buy some)although you will only be able to use it in manual.

I almost always use my flashes in manual, you will not be limited by not being able to use TTL.

Like putting a Nissan engine in a Ferrari

I recommend reading "The Hot Shoe Diaries" by Joe McNally if you are interested in learning more about off camera flash. I just picked it up and it has lots of insight on how to use a flash(es) off the camera and what to use to get what kind of lighting.

robertd3 said:
Something else you might consider is Speedlite Softbox (Commercial Link Removed) instead of the umbrella.

+1

Although sometimes you want the spill of an umbrella, I more often use softboxes instead. Although there are many brands to choose from, Photoflex products are both well-designed and reasonably priced. Plus, local camera stores tend to stock of lot of Photoflex. They also make fabric eggcrates for their softboxes (highly recommended for light control). Plus, they make speedlight brackets for softboxes too. Westcott also makes some really cool lighting control products (softboxes, collapsable silks, etc.), as well as a nifty flash bracket.

On the other hand, umbrellas are fun, too--just try to get a really big one!

Actually, I haven't used any of my umbrellas or softboxes in quite a while. Mainly, because they're all just too small (resulting in too-hard shadows). A 4' x 8' piece of Foamcore (or, even better, two pieces of 4' x 8' Foamcore, for an 8' x 8' source) makes for a much larger source for bouncing (albeit, with no control) than all but the largest studio umbrellas or softboxes (but for a little punch in the eyes, I also own a small silver umbrella, in addition to a 60" white one).

I would also pick up at least two C-stands to mount your bracket and other lighting gags onto. Matthews makes them in black also, and at least two 25-lb. shot bags (shot bags are more compact than sandbags). Or, if those are too steep, the (non-air cushioned) Photoflex light stands are pretty cheap. Matthews also makes a couple of cool brackets to mount Foamcore sheets to C-stands.

Aw, crap! I had no idea this thread was four months old! Shiva, what did you end up getting?

Didn't you just buy a D3? Why are you now going all ghetto with your lighting set up? You should have just bought a D90 with a 35mm f1.8 lens and bought some REAL lights and umbrellas! :^)

Sorry I should have clarified the MSE stands can go to 9ft the highest I've found in a lightweight setup thats why I mentioned them.

Hi Shivaswrath : if your original question still needs an answer, the kit in your photo would definitely mount on a tripod and hold a flash + umbrella. The left hand brass adapter would screw onto the threaded stud of the tripod (you can get these adapters in 1/4", 3/8" and different-threads-at-each-end versions. The black bracket has a hole in the bottom that matches the brass fitting, so it just fits over the brass and secures by tightening the thumbscrew at the bottom. The right hand brass fitting with the cold-shoe drops into a matching hole in the top end of the bracket.
But...
The umbrella would often be positioned to light as if it were sunlight - so some way above the head of your subject and maybe 45 degrees to one side or another of your model's face. As JayGannon suggests, most tripods are just too short unless you only plan to shoot seated portraits. Light stands aren't very expensive and there are lots available that extend to 8 feet high - some even to 11 feet or so. Note that the very lightweight / most portable stands may only reach to 6'6" - 7 feet. This is a little limiting. In a breeze, you will need to put some weight on one or more of the lightstand's legs.

Tripods generally can't go high enough with any type on weight on them to be stable.
Try some C-Stands or MSE Matthews Low Boy triple Risers with sandbags on the legs for height in a lightweight cheap setup.

I shoot Elinchrom and Wescott brellas in cheap chinese adaptors.

shivas - did you ever jump into the umbrella and bracket arena? What'd you get, and how's it doing?

I have several light stands, brackets similar to the one in your photo, and umbrellas. The do tend to fall over in a stiff breeze outside if you don't use weight of some sort. Never tried to use a bracket and unbrella on a camera tripod.

where does the bracket screw in? With one of those adapter things?

the reason I ask is that those light stands look cheap and light, and I'd like to have the option of at least using it outdoors with couples. . .and don't want to deal with a stray wind knocking stuff over!

My little travel tripod has a separate quick-mount that screws to the base of my dSLR, I could just screw the adapter on, correct?

sorry, maybe an elementary question. . .

You will be able to use this with an umbrella and the SB900. But you will need to get an inexpensive light stand instead only because this type of bracket is not designed to fit onto a tripod. And even if you could, you might get into a situation where you need to use your tripod and can't because your strobe and umbrella are mounted on it.

Something else you might consider is Speedlite Softbox (Commercial Link Removed) instead of the umbrella.

I've been using my SB-900 off camera for awhile, but went to a David Ziser thing and have been inspired to get an umbrella.

Would this adapter work for my run of the mill tripod:

I was going to get a Westcott 40" umbrella with it, use it as a shoot through (not bounce). . .

ideas?

I want some additional softer flash effects for some outdoor portraits and of course indoors. . .

I see—thanks jonny. Do you think it would be a big problem if I set the flash to 50mm but used 35mm on the camera instead? Would I get something like a vignette?

Leaving the zoom at a low setting should work fine. If you ever find you need more light on a tighter crop you can always adjust the zoom then. At any focal length above 24 you'll be wasting a bit of power by lighting up things not in the frame. But that will just make the battery drain a bit faster, which may not be an issue for you.

Hmmm...everything seems to be working fine in full manual. Otherwise nothing works. I think in ETTL or whatever-it-is mode it fires at full power. I read the manual, and there is no AA mode. Wireless does not seem to work at all, not surprisingly. No high-speed sync or rear-curtain sync either.

The only thing I find a nuisance is that I have to constantly set the zoom on the flash manually. Would it be OK if I left it at 24mm and did whatever I wanted with my lens? Or is it important that they always match?

Otherwise I think this replaces my much-hated SB-400. It's more powerful, has vertical bounce, easier access to manual control, etc. I'd still opt for an SB-600 though any day.

Yeah, it should work, but I don't know anything about it.

I used an SB-28DX on my D300 before I got my SB-600. Manual worked, but it also had AA (aperture auto?) mode—you enter the aperture on the flash and the it has an on-flash meter that fires the flash until it gets the right amount of light (usually). Not as good as TTL, but it worked. Does the Canon have anything like that?

Ive heard that its a bad idea to use a canon flash on a Nikon camera and the other way around, the canon will try to break the Nikon with all its might! - ok kidding aside, but ive heard of things going bad,id suggest googling it a lot and read on it, not to say that it cant work in full manual, but its only going to be like that, no TTL etc. action.

I've been very busy lately (and still am). Lots of things I need to do, as well as spending time with my family and shooting as well.

Anyway, I found a moment to ask this question:

My dad has an unused (When I say unused, I really mean unused. I think he took one test shot with it, and that was it!) Canon SpeedLite 430EXII. It's miles better than my SB400. Has anyone ever used a Canon flash on a Nikon? I have to switch both the camera and flash to full manual for it to work properly, but I have liked the results a lot. Nothing else works at all, no wireless, no high-speed sync, but still. Any reccomendations/tips?