Haven't heard a word. I have been watching to see what Pocket wizard says about canon adding wireless, but I haven't seen a thing at all.

A new member "diode" is wondering about this....??? Any new word?

I'll post my reply to mtsybulsky again.

Check to see if you have red-eye flash mode turned on in your manual settings. That is probably what's causing it to pre-flash.

It has been posted by mtsybulsky.....

"Hello Everyone, I have a weird issue, when shooting in manual mode with my d7k and sb700 attached the speedlight fires 3 times and then fires again with the body and takes the picture. When I shoot in auto mode both body and speedlight fire at the same time only once. Does anyone know a setting that can be adjusted so that camera and speedlight fires only once in Manual mode.

Thanks Everyone."

I hope that Nikon does something like the new Canon speedlight and soon. I find all these third party products to be flaky at best. It would be so nice to have something built-in and not added ON.

Ofeqve said:
I found the powering sequence is VERY important when using the mini/flex units. One always have to power the flash first, the triggers second and the last the camera. Powering off should be done in the same order.
One other thing causing trouble is blocking the SB900's filter sensor with any modifiers.

Sorry to take issue with your post Ofeqve, but Pocketwizard specifically suggest starting at the top and working down as you suggest, but powering off in reverse order. Camera-PW-Flash. This is the proceedure I follow and have never had a problem. Maybe you have?

@pictaker, me too. The AC3 is excellent.

I found the powering sequence is VERY important when using the mini/flex units. One always have to power the flash first, the triggers second and the last the camera. Powering off should be done in the same order.
One other thing causing trouble is blocking the SB900's filter sensor with any modifiers.

So far my new Elinchrom D-Lite IT (400ws) units which have the Skylite radios in each unit are working great. While these of course need plugging in, if we are using off camera flash, indoors, this may not be a problem. My experience suggests the small battery operated units just do not have the power I have needed.....so.. maybe Nikon is not as excited about the new product as one might hope for. Of course, Canon may have changed all that.

I have found the mini can be temperamental using a Flex on the camera is more reliable

have you updated the Firmware you should have version 3.003 (~september 2011)

I do have the flex mini setup, and it seems everyone is happy with them but me. On my einsteins and elinchorms they seem to work great but with the sb900's, they seem very moody. I was actually thinking of getting rid of them. It seems i make an adjustment to my camera then all the sudden ill change a setting, then a flash will stop firing. Nobody else has had problems with them?

I'm another happy camper with the Flex/Mini arrangement and 3 strobes (900/910). I also use the tiny AC-3. Excellent arrangement.

I have the Flex/Mini setup with three strobes, and yes they work fantastically.. but I have to admit it'd be nice to not have to mess with adding "a middle man."

As nether the D800 or the D4, have a flash radio transmitter, it seems unlikely this year or even next

Are you using the Pocket wizard Flex and Mini, once you Get used to them, they are very
good, no more worrying if the flash is in line of sight

http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=3021

Does anyone know if there is gonna be a replacement for the Sb 910 any time soon. I figured since the Nikon CLS flash system is there claim to fame and canon just released flashes with built in radio. I was hoping that would pressure nikon to release a flash with radio transmitters built in as well to stay on top. As they should, I can see Canon stealing Nikon users who are heavy speed light users because of this. Especially wedding photographer. I have 3 sb 900 and wanted to pick up some more, but not if there is gonna be a replacement soon otherwise I would be wasting my money. The only thing I know is about a year and a half ago I was in a room with the guy who is in charge of nikon flash division and he said putting radios in their flashes "was on their bucket list ", his exact words. But then the sb 910 came out. My guess is that the SB 910 was created to just solve the overheating problem and to just hold people over while a new flash was in the making. I guess I have not seen any rumors on the internet, has anybody heard anything?

please repost in this thread: http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=4860&page=13

Got the box last week during the middle of several shoots and wanted to see how the D800 performed in my studio using a 1980s vintage Chimera softbox, SB-900 and PocketWizard to trigger a full power dump.

I'm using my 1990s 85mm PC Micro-Nikkor lens which doesn't communicate well with any of my bodies--Even at f/2.8 it says it's f/51 and varies widely as I turn the aperture dial.

To tweak the tilt of the lens to cover the angle of the silver bucket, I'm using Liveview to zoom in to adjust the focus planes. So far, easier to use the LV than the D300s, D700 and the D3/D3s. A simple push of the button gets me in and out, thus the camera is

I'm using the D800 at 1.2x just to get me a little more room and running the lens about f/18 and ISO 400.

The camera has been set to my preferred settings including 12-bit, compressed raw, auto-balance, etc., similar to the rest of my bodies. Since the photos were also taken with my D3s, this was simply to see how the the D800 would work out in a similar situation. I have not looked at images from both the D3s and D800 side-by-side.

Looking at the embeded images in Photo Mechanic, I can see no issues due to focus and very little diffraction issues. They look sharp! Looking at the ACR 6.7 post-processed image at 100%, all 6144x4080 pixels, I see detail I can only view with a loupe!

First impressions is that with good lenses and good technique, this camera is a winner! Wish I could share the photo, but I don't like to show commissioned work until my client has had a chance to review and choose what he needs! You'll just need to trust me until I've had a chance to shoot my own work which happens when all the paying work is completed...

Until they start handing me two plane tickets or I can get a trained monkey that fits in my suitcase to be my VAL I will have to use the other options (just kidding about using a monkey).

I looked at the Lumiquist stuff this afternoon, but I like you feel that it will not quite get the entire car. I did have an idea about using the LTP, maybe I need to design a hat that could hold it (and make me not look entirely stupid at the same time). I would put it on a pocket wizzard so I could adjust on the fly, just a thought.

Scooby - Never underestimate the power of the voice activated lightstand (VAL, or more commonly, another person holding your flash). I'm the primary VAL for my lady, and she gets great results every time she uses it.

That said, you could try the lumiquist softboxes (either the Lumiquist Softbox III or the LTP if you can get a flash off camera), but I don't think you will get a wide enough throw to light an entire car when shot close in.

I've got the softbox III and it's excellent, but I think the LTP on your SB900 might be your best bet. If you can't round up a VAL, just attach your light via a TTL cord (on camera the LTP will block your lens) and hold it in your other hand.

Well figure I might get a few more suggestions, I saw several different types of light modifiers recently but didn't get a chance to ask about them. I have the Gary Fong product but honestly for me it helps but not enough, I have not tried it that much either. I see people put them together in several different ways and maybe I have not found the best one yet, to spread the light out the most. I should probably watch a video but I am not counting on this product to remedy the problem.

Here is the situation, I need something portable so the 36" soft boxes won't really cut it for me. I am taking pictures at car shows, I used to be outdoors but lately they asked me for indoor shows. If it works out I get a media pass and there is no problem but this lastest show, I wasn't able to make the media time frame and had to shoot with the general public all over the place. The result is the following, I underexposed this so the background is not blasting everything else out and obviously no flash:

I needed a wide angle lens to get up close so nobody was in the way but using a flash I only get like a part of the car and everything else is just too dark. I can crank the ISO up but would prefer to be able to illuminate the car and not have the background lights be so bright (and distracting). I hopefully will not get caught in the general public times anymore but figure I need to be prepaired incase I do. On another note, setting up 2 or 3 flashes really won't be an option either, last thing I need is someone to step on it or kick it.

For flashes I have the following: SB-900, SB-700, and an SB-400

some update to my previous post, as I wasn't 100% happy with my cheap PW cable, I decided to DIY it. I ordered remote control shutter release from ebay - $2.99 and went to electric shop and got a L shaped mini jack connector - $2. After I disassembled the remote control release I put the three cables on the mini jack (there's a lot of different charts on the net. It took me around 10 minutes to solder iron the cables to mini jack connector (that's the part of job I didn't liked). After that I just joined the flex unit with d3s and fired the mini... and it worked - like a charm. One thing over here, if You want to have the flex mounted in the hotshoe You need to disable the hotshoe in flex. Anyway, the whole thing costed me $5.99 and app. 30min of my life :)

SkintBrit said:
Maybe you do have an issue with your TT-1 as mine flashes constantly and at regular intervals. Yes, please let us know the result of your conversation with PW's.

So it turns out that the TT1 was a defective unit. I was in touch with Customer Support and after trouble shooting for a little while and following his advice with no success, he told me to return the unit and I'll have it replaced.

adamz said:
Following the topic from: http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=4468

I've been shooting with PW since August and thought that's a normal behavior - as written in the manual, one shot for calibration and then it goes. Therefore, I'm surprised You have such a problem. The only configuration change I've made in my PW set was enabling hyper sync followed by upgrading the firmware.

I guess it is a normal behavior as long as it can be disabled. Customer Support told me that the metering on the camera is responsible to keep the PW TT's active, but as long as the metering has more time before going to sleep (or disabling it completely as I did, for testing purposes) you should get a shot every time you make an exposure. I wasn't getting that no matter what my metering settings were.

Thanks a lot guys for the help.

@skinbritt - when You left the 1mm space between the end of plug and P1 connector on PW flex it works like a charm, need to find out a permanent solution for attaching the cable to flex - most likely I'll just cut the end and instead of mono connector will put a stereo mini jack at the end.

Do the cheap cables seem to work OK? At the price of the original PW one I bought for my D700 I wouldn't buy another, but at the price you paid adamz, I'm tempted to get a spare in case I ever have call to switch the master with the remote. Would you recommend the one you just bought? There's an awful lot of difference between $10 and £70!

They had them on Amazon last night as a lightning deal. Was tempting but with Christmas time I didn't really have the extra money.

heheheh, just read my first post again... indeed confusing :) anyway, got two cables - just in case I'll lost one :), of course I use only one cable and plug the one end to flex P1 and the second end to camera :)