This is bit off topic, but there are some really awesome apps for photo editing on the iPad, some are available on other platforms, but not all. Perhaps google's aquisition of Nik will change the landscape somewhat. Snapspeed is one of my favorites, but I also use filterstorm pro, and camera+. There are many others out there, but these are rated best. I believe the time is almost here where you will no longer need a "real" computer. Certainly in the field this is pretty practical today, albeit with some compromises.

Some more thoughts about iPads;

I have been contemplating buying an iPad for quite some time now, but for what I need the thing for, I had already ruled out the new "mini", as I need the larger display; I spend a lot of time on another forum, and one of the members, (a young fellow in Germany) is by far the sharpest person I have seen yet, relative to "all things Mac"; so I sent him an IM, via the forum, and he (as usual) gave me a VERY good explanation about the differences in models, and actually pointed out a few things that I was unaware of; there are a lot of tablets "out there"; but I'm unaware of any with a display as good as the current iPads; and inasmuch as I need one to work seamlessly with my new IMac, I will be ordering the iPad shortly. Not to mention, how many tablets can you think of that have as many apps written expressly for them, as the iPad has ?

OK, here's what I've learnt so far.

The camranger device is actually just a : http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/?model=TL-MR3040 available from various online retailers for £40 ($60), and the spare battery that I paid $20 for, can be had for £10 ($15)! A very crude attempt to hide the equipments true identity externally has been made, by physically 'sanding off' the tp-link name, and placing a cheap looking "camranger" sticker over the top of the damage. Strangely enough though, they have left the manufactures original info in tact, behind the battery compartment? Very strange.
So what's stopping you from spending $60 on the tp-link instead of $299 on the camranger I hear you ask? Well as far as I can see, only a unique registration code that they supply printed on a sticker attached to the back of the router. This needs to be entered in to the camranger iOS app, for the app to work. It's also the code that you enter in to the iPhone or iPad to log on to the devices network signal, so without it you're stuffed. An original tp-link device must also come with such a code, but although I have not gone out and bought one to try it, I would presume only the codes supplied by camranger, will get past the registration process in their app? How do I feel about having spent so much on what is in fact a cheap piece of kit? Well after my initial annoyance, I have calmed down a bit, and understand that the premium price goes to pay for the app development costs. I suppose this is fair enough. I have not connected the device to a camera yet (ran out of time for that), but I'll come back to this thread when I can report on how well the app works, and whether it's worth the extra premium. Watch this space those who are interested.

Well my camranger arrived yesterday, and the good news is.......her majesties government didn't ask me for any money on receipt! :-) That means its worked out nearly £100 less than buying it from the future UK distributior. Result! It's still in its box at the moment as work has suddenly gone mad, but as soon as I get a chance to play...errhum.....I mean use it professionally :-) I'll let you know what I think. Already downloaded the app to my iPhone/iPad, so I'm all set.

Sure seven, will do. 1 battery should be enough for what I plan on using it for, but have bought a backup for $20 just in case. Lets hope 150 feet is pessimistic! I'm intrigued in how it can override the physical positions of some of the controls (focus settings for instance) with software. Will just have to wait and see?

SkintBrit said:
Just bought one (I think the international shipping cost of $45 was a bit of a liberty). I'll let anyone who is interested know what I think when it arrives.

Hi Skint

Looks goods but for remote working, I would like a range greater than 150 feet and a better battery life

can you you let us know how AF works? something lacking on the Hero, I currently use for remote control

That would be great SkintBrit. Look forward to your comments/experiences.

Just bought one (I think the international shipping cost of $45 was a bit of a liberty). I'll let anyone who is interested know what I think when it arrives.

Lol, was just trying to find this thread again, to make you aware of the camranger device (http://www.camranger.com/) vilaro. I'm pleased you spotted it already! :-). Yes I agree it looks superb, and MUCH cheaper than Nikons WT-5! If I can get one posted to the UK, I will buy one also.

Thanks to everyone for their replies. I should have clarified (sorry to 'theoldnikonian') that i was after a solution that did not require a laptop or computer.

Just to let you all know that i saw the story a couple of days ago here on NR about the CamRanger device. This is exactly the kind of thing i'm looking for. It looks awesome, will probably buy it.

What do others think of it and does anyone have any hands on experience with it to share?

Thanks again.

Hi there. just joined the forum and noticed your iPad question. There is an app on the Apple app store called DSLR remote HD which will allow you to connect your D800 to your iPad. The app cost me around £18.00 in the UK developed by ononesoftware. First you download the app from iTunes and load it onto your iPad. You then load the ononesoftware server onto your laptop. Click on your wi-fi icon on your laptop and click on create network. Call it something simple i.e. ad-hoc and add a password. Connect your camera to your laptop and open the app on your iPad. The iPad will find your new network and will open the software. It will allow you to control your camera fully including f stop, iso, shutter speed, and show live view plus more Iincluding tap to focus. It will also allow you to start and stop video recording. All images or video clips will be saved to both laptop and memory card with an option to save to the iPad. There are a few video demos on youtube so see what you think. Because you are using a computer to computer network that you created you can use this anywhere and no need for the usual wi-fi signal. Hope this helps.

Along this same line...what is required to tether a D4 to a Macbook Pro via Ethernet cable? Is there software to allow the control of the camera functions?

I think they are both just video out ports.

@donalddejose - the question is, does this two ports are video out or video out and video in ports. only if You have a video in port You can use such a device as an external screen.

How about using a $250 Google Chromebook as a larger LCD tethered to a D4, D800, D600, or to be released D7200 and D400? The Chromebook as a mini HDMI port.

How about using a MS Surface as a larger LCD tethered to a D4, D800, D600 or to be released D7200 or D400? Surface has a mini HDMI port.

You can on a D4 via the WT-5 wireless transmitter, but I've not seen it done on a D800.

not directly, as there's no hdmi input on neither ipad nor ipad mini. You can use camera remote that You hook up on one side to d800e, but it requires a cable connection to server app on either windows or mac os x machine. than you can see the lcd on Your ipad/iphone via wifi connection, assuming both the sever and ipad/iphone are connected to the same network.

Does anyone know of an app and/or cable that is available so i can view my D800E rear LCD remotely on an iPad or iPad mini??

tcole1983 said:
Ok I used my flash during a party on Saturday and I remembered why the exposure was off at Christmas time. With the flash on the camera in A-mode it sets the shutter to 1/60. No matter what you change the f stop to it keeps the shutter speed at 1/60. So it was causing shots wide open to be over exposed while stopped down shots are underexposed. I don't know if there is a setting that deals with this...or if that is just the standard when you have the flash on and you are supposed to deal with that.

I am dumb...there is a setting in the menus and I had the flash on manual. Obviously turning it on TTL fixed it...works much better that way.

The SB-400 has no remote or commander IR receiver capability. An off-shoe TTL cable, such as the SC-28 or SC-29 (or, the longer after-market TTL cables made for Nikon cameras) is the only option for using the SB-400 off-camera (unless it works with an SU-4). Can anyone chime in about using an SU-4 with an SB-400?

By the way, the remotely CLS-commandable, Nikon SB-600, is now selling for only $219 at Best Buy retail stores ($197 with 10% coupon, available in USPS' moving kits).

Ok I used my flash during a party on Saturday and I remembered why the exposure was off at Christmas time. With the flash on the camera in A-mode it sets the shutter to 1/60. No matter what you change the f stop to it keeps the shutter speed at 1/60. So it was causing shots wide open to be over exposed while stopped down shots are underexposed. I don't know if there is a setting that deals with this...or if that is just the standard when you have the flash on and you are supposed to deal with that.

tcole1983 said:
I don't think it is.

Yea, my apologies to KOK Yoon Lee, I misremembered. Only the onboard flash can be put in "manual" mode.

tcole1983 said: From what I understand though it should be automatically adjusting the intensity so things aren't overexposed though right?

Yes it should. That's what TTL (through the lens) flash metering is all about. If it is consistently overexposing forgrounds there are only a couple of possibilities.
Defective body (unlikely), Defective flash (very unlikely in the SB-400's case as i-TTL should either work or not, there isn't much room for semi-functional failure.), messed up camera setting, too close of range, misunderstanding of how Nikon's CLS works / faulty expectations.

Drab said:
Could either of you post an example photo of an "over exposed" foreground?

The SB-400 should be behaving no different than any other i-TTL speedlight.

I deleted all the pictures where it was overexposed because they were worthless.

Testing123 said:
That is simply wrong.

I don't think it is. I just got out my instruction manual and looked through it. Not sure I know exactly what it is saying for all the cameras because I haven't used the others, but as far as I can tell on the D5000 there is no manual power operation (unless this is what the flash compensation option is). From what I understand though it should be automatically adjusting the intensity so things aren't overexposed though right?

I think you guys are getting confused in terminology, so let me have a go. The SB-400 can be configured to use on iTTL cameras using TTL or "manual" power (meaning the power can be controlled on camera anywhere from full power to 1/128). In this sense, the flash allows for the use of "manual power". However, it will only operate on the hot-shoe of TTL compatible camera. I couldn't put it on an old camera, such as my FM2, and expect to fire at all. In that case, the SB400 isn't really a manual flash.