EdinJahic said:
Sorry for all the questions guys, but ...

If I am forced to use wireless devices such as PW, why would I even purchase a unit like SB or mentioned YN flash?
I could just go by with regular non wifi flash units? I heard LumoPro is not bad?

So complicated ...

I also use my PocketWizards with studio flashes, such as the Elinchrom units, work great here also. The only limitation is the size, they need AC power, and the shortest flash duration is 1/250 second, unlike the SB which can do HSS and fill light up to 1/8000. That being said, the PW's have a nifty feature called hypersync, which allows studio and other lights to work with shorter exposure durations. I have been able to get exposures as short as 1/1000 second with this method. For really bright sunlight with open apertures, the SB900/SB700 cannot be beat.

One of the great advantages of the Nikon System is CLS

I use it with SB900s a D800 and PWs

I works and it works very well

i

R8R, that is really great and useful information.

I did borrow a LP160 from a friend of mine few days ago, and I have noticed issues outdoor already, there were several misses that occurred. Other than that it did seem like a nice manual flash, easy settings and nice output.
However, I like your idea of getting some used/new SB units and go with them, then I can simply just add PW's after I get more used to working with them indoor and take them outdoor.
After all setting up manual units outdoor would probably be pain in the a** I believe.

There are SB800 used units on eBay as low as 300$, where NIB SB700 can be found at the same price tag. Not bad I guess.

Thanks for the heads up on conditions of used units, greatly appreciated.

EdinJahic said:
@R8R, I was looking into used SB units too, but for some reason I don't feel confident, probably due my zero experience with flash units. You think there shouldn't be any problems with used units on longer runs?

Two things to look out for:

1) Is the flash tube fried? If the diffuser lens looks melted or bubbled, then the flash may have been overheated by pushing it too hard with external battery packs.

or

2) Are the battery contacts corroded? Don't buy it if it looks like batteries have leaked inside.

Test the flash on your camera at many different exposure values and flash compensation values to make sure it works properly and the exposures look correct. If so, buy it as cheap as you can. Properly cared for they will work for a long time.

EdinJahic said:
Sorry for all the questions guys, but ...

If I am forced to use wireless devices such as PW, why would I even purchase a unit like SB or mentioned YN flash?
I could just go by with regular non wifi flash units? I heard LumoPro is not bad?

So complicated ...

It's actually simple. No one is forcing you to use anything you're not comfortable with.

That said...

If you want to have the most flexibility, you can't do much better than using the native Nikon CLS system combined with radio triggers.

CLS, when used indoors or at short distances outdoors, works very well and it's super quick to set up. Pop up the on-camera flash, set the values in the menu, and go.

However when you have bright sunlight, obstructions, etc, then CLS is not as useful. I've used it in some cases where simple things like vegetation get in the way and I get misfires.

That's where radio triggers give you the utmost flexibility, although they take a little more time to set up and a little more investment in money and a learning curve.

They are tools. Buy the right tool for the job. If you are shooting indoors mostly, and want a simple set up, then a few new or used Nikon speedlights are all you really need with a D7000. If you want more flexibility and range, add radio triggers later.

OR - while learning the whole process, forget wireless altogether. You can buy a hotshoe sync adapter for the D7000, a couple cheap flashes with manual control, and use cords for everything. Or just use the optical sync functions built into many small strobes or monolights. The Lumopro LP160's are fantastic for this.

Personally I use a SB-700 I bought new, and a SB-800 I found used in Barcelona for €150. Both are work horses.

Sorry for all the questions guys, but ...

If I am forced to use wireless devices such as PW, why would I even purchase a unit like SB or mentioned YN flash?
I could just go by with regular non wifi flash units? I heard LumoPro is not bad?

So complicated ...

Thanks Correlli, that perfectly answered/confirmed all of my doubts. I guess I will be shopping for some PW's after all. Appreciated.

So, I will go and do some research on a good not too expensive setup.

@R8R, I was looking into used SB units too, but for some reason I don't feel confident, probably due my zero experience with flash units. You think there shouldn't be any problems with used units on longer runs?

Thanks for all the information guys, greatly appreciated.

I own a D7000 btw, thanks.

I was a beta tester for Pocket Wizards and long answer short, you cannot mix and match CLS and wireless PW transmissions. You need a PW (mini or TT5) on your camera to transmit and then a TT5 on each flash, they cannot share one TT5 between flashes. This turns off CLS and you are relying totally on the wireless triggers, which are great but add the cost since you need one for each flash and one for the camera. The only exception is that you can have a flash on camera attached to the wireless trigger, but for all off camera flashes you need a receiver unit. You can mix and match other products from Pocket Wizard which are less expensive for basic triggering. If you are using an on camera flash it is set to master but all the receiving flashes are just set to the first "on" position, not to "remote" like in CLS. I have 3 SB 700's and two SB900's and it all works great. The best is to also get an AC3 zone controller to put on the mini, which lets you change settings by flash in either auto or manual modes. The very latest is to get the new Sekonic meter 478DR which allows control of the flashes directly from the meter and shows % ambient/flash in every shot, it is amazing! I hope that helps, but realize it is expensive.

EdinJahic said:
If SU-800 commander can trigger SB units, could the same or similar unit trigger YN units the same way?

Thanks a bunch,

It *should* be able to trigger and control any CLS compatible flash. However, I doubt you will get the frame to frame consistency that you would have with a Nikon unit. In fact I would buy a used Nikon speedlight any day over a brand new Yongnuo unit. The SU-800 will work with any CLS speedlight - SB-600, 700, 800, 900 and 910. (and the SB-R200) They work. And work. And work. With a little care, they last indefinitely and the output is reliable. They work very well with the SU-800, but it lacks the range and flexibility of a radio setup.

Now as to the questions above about the Pocketwizards - they work with CLS with the speedlights set to normal TTL only. You can't set the SB-700 connected to the TT5 in commander mode. Won't work at all.

Also, in the scenario above (2x TT5 and 2x SB-700) you can't optically slave the secondary flash because of the pre-flashes from the CLS.

So:
One TT5 on camera set to ControlTL
One TT5 on #1 SB-700 (set to TTL, not remote mode)
#2 SB-700 set to SU-4 optical slave

In this case, #2 flash will fire when triggered from the pre-flashes of #1. The resulting flash will end up wasted, having fired just *before* the exposure.

To make two TT5's work with two SB-700's, set both TT5's to basic trigger mode only, and the #1 SB-700 to full manual. Set #2 to SU-4. Full manual trigger set up. (Very reliable btw).

I think the other way to do this is add the AC3 controller onto the camera TT5. Then set the trigger mode to "M" and it will cancel the pre-flashes.

Good luck.

I don't have the Yongnuo but what I can read from the specs it does not have a radio wireless unit build in (like the Pocket Wizard), but it understands the wireless commands that Nikon Speedlights use (using IR flashes) with the CLS. The Nikon wireless system (called CLS) uses pre-flashes to control the remote units.

I use a D700, an SB-700 and an SB-900. I can use the build in flash of the D700 as Master and the two speedlights as slaves. I also use a little accessory called "SG-3 IR" that blocks the visible light from the D700 flash.

From what I read in the Yongnuo specs you can also use the YN568EX as slave in such a setup, but you will need a master. This can be the build-in flash of your camera (depends on the camera so please read the manual) or a Nikon SB on the camera. As far as I understood the YN specs you cannot use that unit as master on the camera.

The Nikon wireless system works fine if you are indoors, but in bright sunlight I heard it is problematic because the control flashes might not reach the slave units (never tested it myself). So if you need it over a longer distance or outdoors you might want to think about something like the Pocket Wizard that uses radio to control the slaves. You will need a sender on the camera and a receiver on each flash.

So if you want to go low cost you need to check if your cameras build in flash can be used as master in Nikon CLS (camera manual). The SU-800 or another SB speed light from Nikon would also work as master (or commander).

If you want to control the flash over a longer distance or outdoors in bright sunlight you will most likely need to use a radio system like Pocket Wizard or something similar. In that case you need a sender on the camera and a receiver on each flash unit.

Hope this helps

Hello everyone,

I am brand new to Nikon. Have been reading the forum for awhile now.
Now I have a question and decided to ask for your help.

I am sorry for reviving this very old thread, but I need advice from the pros on this very same subject.
I am about to invest in my first flash setup, and I am really, really confused with all these wireless options.
I was thinking about buying one Yongnuo YN568EX unit for now, then probably another one soon after. What I am concerned is how all this setup works. If I purchase YN unit, I understand that I need a PW unit to be able to trigger the flash, but here comes the question. Do I have to get 2 PW units or I can trigger YN with only 1 PW unit off the camera since YN has a built in wireless functionality. Or, if I cannot do it this way and I need 2 PW units, what is the purpose of YN having a built in wireless functionality?
I know I am probably being complicated now :(

Is there a unit that can control YN without the need of having another unit attached to YN itself to operate.

If SU-800 commander can trigger SB units, could the same or similar unit trigger YN units the same way?

Thanks a bunch,

I own a Nikon D40, D80 and D7000. I am using the D7000 most of the time nowadays, so that ought to be my favorite. However, there is a lot to be said in favour of the D40 as well, the handling and size are fantastic and I prefer the CCD sensor (compared to the CMOS). Shame it is only 6 MP and the low light performance is not really good, and shooting star trails would be a lot more difficult with a D40. Otherwise it is an amazing camera.

Started with a Nikon F. Then an FTn Photomic. Bunches of Leicas (RF and SLR), Olympus, Pentax 35 - 4.5x6 - 6x6, Rolleiflex, Mamiyaflex, and a couple of dozen P&S 35s (loved the Rolei 35).

Now,

Nikon F5
Nikon D200
Nikon D700
Nikon D7000
Nikon D800 (just got it last week)

A dozen or so Nikon lenses, from the 17-35mm f/2.8, 45mm PCE, 70-180mm Micro, 70-210 f/2.8
VR, 200mm f/2.8 (!!), 300mm f/4.5.

Favorite? D700, until I get to know the D800. Really dislike the D7000. Bought it for shooting video.

Different ones for different purposes, but all Nikon.

As to the current crop of digital cameras I don't like going older than the D90 because I want to use Picture Controls and fine tune them. The D90 has more than enough resolution for PAD, 8x10s and sending photos by e-mail. Larger files just waste time for those uses. If I want maximum detail I shoot the D800. But I think the resolution of the D600 is more than adequate 98% of the time and I appreciate its lightness (especially when pared with some lightweight old AF lenses such as the wonderful 28-80 f3.3-5.6G) compared to the heavy D800. I don't have a D4 but surely would prefer it for sports or times when I wanted speed. I think my "perfect" FX/DX combo will be a D600 matched with a D7200 (when it is out).

In the past I have owned many cameras. 35mm thru large format. I do not miss film cameras now at all. I got rid of many medium formats after side by side testing with Nikon F5 and micro nikkor lens. Best film camera was the nikon F5. And a couple of medium panoramics. I sold most of all of these. I have owned D100 through Nikon D700. My favorite of all of these are D300, D90, and D7000.

In the order that I got them: Pentax 35mm, Nikon Fotomic didn't like it sold, Pentax spotmatic great camera, Nikonos, Fuji p&S good, D300 great camera, Tamron 90mm macro excellent lens, nikon 10.5

I listed my lenses because I can't relate all that well to the camera without them.

Oh, listing lenses, huh...10.5, 20, 16-35, 24-120, 28-85,50,85,135,70-200, 80-400, 400, TC 1.4, 2.0 and old "F" lenses, 24, 35, 85, 300.

Canon Powershot A720 IS
iPhone 4
Pentax K-5
Nikon D800E
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My favourite right now is the D800E with the Zeiss but before that the K-5 and FA 31LTD was my #1 choice for walking around.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lenses for Pentax:
Sigma 8-16
smc Pentax-FA 31mm F1.8AL Limited
smc DA*55 F1.4 SDM
smc Pentax-FA 77 F1.8 Limited
smc Pentax DA*50-135 F2.8 ED [IF] SDM
smc Pentax DA*60-250 F4 ED [IF] SDM
smc Pentax DA*200mm F2.8 ED [IF] SDM
smc Pentax FA*300mm F4.5 ED[IF]
Tamron 90 F2.8 Macro
Tamron 1.4x TC
---------------------
Lenses for D800:
Zeiss 21/ 2.8
Nikkor 35/1.4G
Nikkor 70-200 F2.8 VRII
Sigma 50mm F1.4 HSM
Sigma 85mmF1.4 HSM
Sigma 150 F2.5 OS Macro

lol sounds like a plan. You can start your search at the north pole and work your way south east.

Please add an address, where you keep your gear, times you are away from home and the alarm code if you have one...........

D5000 until i purchased the D800,
35 1.8DX was on the d5k until i started using the d800, so now its a 50mm 1.8G 90% of the time ( it works for the stuff that i see)

for events and the like, 24-85mm vr(surprisingly good), 70-200 VRII). (on dx used the 17-50 2.8 OS Sigma, which wasn't a bad lens at all)

105mm vr(sharpest lens i have other than the 70-200) to take pictures of flowers around the house.

a 28mm 2.8D to travel really light (althought it really isn't very sharp especially if you pixel peep ( so really since i dont even do heavy crops, not that big of a deal ))

one sb-700 ( debating whether to get another or an umbrella and a light collapsable stand...)

next is either zeiss 50mm 1.4 ZA.2/ 85mm 1.4 ZA.2 or deal with the UWA situation (14-24mm or 24mm 1.4G), but since i'm currently going to school full time that will have to be on the back burner : )

I have a few

D4
D800e
D7000
D300

F100

My D4 is my favorite by far...it is truly an unbelievable camera. My least favorite by a long stretch is the D7000.

No way do I want to list everything I own.

I have a plastic tote full of Minolta cameras (6) and lenses in my storage unit.

Nikon D70S, my first digital and haven't touched any of the Minoltas since I got it.
Two D300 Nikons, my favorites until they both quit working.
D7000, current camera of choice only because D300's are broken. Will sell it when D400 appears.

Nikon 105 f2.8 macro
Tokina 12-24 f4
Nikon 80-400 VR
Nikon 70-200 VR II
Nikon 200-400 VR II

As you can probably guess from my kit, I'm mostly into wildlife photography.

So between the wife and I, we have (and some of it we even use often):

Bodies or point and shoots:
Nikon D40
Nikon D7000
Nikon P7000
Olympus D-550 Zoom
Nikon F100
Olympus Stylus
Polaroid Land Camera
Polaroid iZone
Polaroid Joycam
Nickelodeon toy camera (4 shots per frame)
Yashica Electro 35 CC
Minolta Maxxum 3000i
Minolta Maxxum 7000

Lenses:
Minolta AF 50mm f/1.8
Minolta AF 28-135 f/4-4.5
Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5
Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 G
Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 VR
Nikkor 28-70mm f2.8
Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8 AF-S

Speedlights:
Nikon SB-800
Nikon SB-700

Support:
Old 70's era Star D tripod (tried to sell it, no takers)
Giottos MT-9370 tripod with an MH 1300-657 head
Manfrotto super clamp
Manfrotto double ball joint with camera mount (perfect to sticking the camera where cameras don't belong)
2x Bogen light stands w/ Wescott umbrellas and Frio mounts

Bags:
Lowepro Omni Trekker - holds a ton
Mountainsmith Kit Cube insert w/ one of 3 different Timbuk2 bags (for walk around)
Lowepro Stealth backpack (weird pack...don't use it much)
Think Tank Pixel Pocket

Misc:
Countless Eneloop batteries w/ a Maha charger