Might be the popup flash mechanism. My D800e (along with all others I have seen) make a rattle when the flash is closed, as the flash retention arms are not under pressure. If you pop up the flash, the rattle goes away since the arms come under spring pressure. . Completely normal.

I had dust on my Nikon D600 after less than 1000 shots and before I ever even changed the lens. Something is up with Nikon and dust. Either a shutter design or something else. I even had 2 hot pixels and ended up returning. I'll probably end up re-buying but i'm worried about these issues. Even the reviews are pointing them out:
http://learningcameras.com/reviews/4-dslrs/75-nikon-d600-full-review

If you are sending a message to someone...they may have a mailbox which is full and this is what you are seeing. I might be able to assist if you want to send the message to me. Also, make certain you reload your browser page after deleting messages, as it may not be giving you the latest information.

deleted all massages, but still get mail box full message

Another way to send a message is if one has an email listed, clicking on the Avatar, it will show the email and this can be used as well.

I didn't know that, you learn something every day!

I just did this with my D90 which has a lot of use. Sounds like a huge piece is loose inside. But, the fact is many of these cameras and lenses have parts which move and if jolted will make sounds. If the camera works, I certainly would not send it to Nikon and spend a service charge..maybe $75-$100 to find out nothing is wrong. I think if one sends in a camera even under warranty and no problem exists, there will be a charge. But, I cannot say for certain what any one service center will do.

Shoot images, let us see what you do... post on PAD

Hi jtcaraig, welcome to the NR forum.

I have to ask you - have you noticed anything wrong with the function of the camera or any problems with the images that the camera takes, and do you have any previous experience with DSLR's of the D7000's complexity? I'm just trying to get a feel for the detail behind Newbie with that last question.

Click "unsubscribe" on the right column to delete a message

How do empty my in box ??

it is full and I cannot PM

I chose (did research and wasn't bound by equipment) Nikon because of much better support for work with off camera flash (CLS and better sync speeds).

I'm still heavily in DX. If Pantax had 1/250+ snyc speeds back then, I might have considered.

TaoTeJared said:
That is the mirror flapping.

Hi. I am a newbie. I am also having exactly the same problem. And I also did what he did actually. My question is: Is the 'mirror flapping' normal? Shall I bring my D7000 to service center?

Welcome to Nikon Rumors, and thanks for the tip. I can't believe Nikon has the gall to charge $900 USD for a wireless adaptor. I hope you don't mind if I post this on another Nikon site.

Thank You

I love msmoto's Nikon F with its patina of use and love. Very nostalgic and romantic!

My last film camera was a Nikon F100 that I still have and I had several lenses for it that carried over into my first digital body- a D200. The F100 remains the best 35mm film camera I have ever used. What impressed me at the time was the seamless transfer to the D200, with almost all the controls being instantly familiar. I cannot comment on Canons as I have never used one but several colleagues of mine have them and they seem to produce very good results. They like them.

It might be worth remembering that before about 1990 or so, I don't think Canon really featured on the professional scene at all (mostly being used by keen amateurs) and therefore many photographers from the 60s, 70s and 80s grew up with Nikon as THE professional 35mm. camera and continued to use them after that. They had a reputation of being literally bullet proof- Don McCullin's Nikon F stopping a bullet in Vietnam that would have otherwise killed him as I remember.

My favourite camera is in my camera cupboard, unused for a couple of years now, my beautiful Horseman 5X4 monorail. I aim to shoot some B&W on it in the spring. I regret no longer having my stunning Nikkor lenses for it though!

Meleagris said:

One last consideration, if you buy the 600mm or 400mm, renting the 200-400mm is way cheaper.

JB

will they give you a discount if you own one of the other two :)

I would say I am wondering about the 800mm F5.6 that was announced a while back, but not sure if it will happen though. Hearing about it is one thing but being able to purchase it is another.

LR creates a copy of the file that the plugin can then work with.

i tried the '' clean sensor of the menu'' and i had more black spots ! i contacted nikon and they confirmed that the sensor needs to be cleaned, so i took the camera today to the service centre kingston ,london .the service was just great and they have done it while i was waiting .
the whole process done within 4o min.
thank ou msmoto for your reply .

I own the 600mm f/4 and would not trade it for anything the world. It is RAZOR sharp (sorry but I disagree with Thom Hogan) and the AF is amazing. Is shoot everything from birds to Thoroughbred racing with it. I have used the 200-400 extensively and love the lens but as others have said it is a totally different lens. It is very nice for shooting large animals where you can get close...but I usually wish for more lens, not less. I am considering getting one to compliment the 600 as others have done.

I find a way to make my 600mm work for most of the things I do. For me, the reach is appreciated over the 400mm and I just do not believe the extender gives you the quality of the lens only. Since most of what I need is long...the 600 is a no brainer for me.

As others have stated, you might consider the 500mm if you are considering the 200-400. The weight savings is substantial. The 600mm (and 400) is a beast and requires some extra planning when traveling.

One last consideration, if you buy the 600mm or 400mm, renting the 200-400mm is way cheaper.

JB

Other than being heavily invested in Nikon-compatible equipment, my reason for sticking with Nikon is that I find the ergonomics better than the Canon-equivalent cameras, particularly at the semi-pro and pro end. Button and dial placement is much more comfortable to me on Nikon cameras.

Safyre.......don't worry about what "some people" think about K.R.; the guy's sharp as a tack on a lot of stuff; I just think he's "all wet" about "never needs no stinkin tripod"! Lotta people around who are just jealous of Ken; (how many guys you know who can make a great living with just a website ?) (answer: not many!)

Now;
Way back in "the day" I had a very nice Canon F-1; I loved that camera! I had a bunch of focusing screens for it, a REALLY cool flexible right angle "or straight through gadget that replaced the penta prism.......(wish I could use that thing on my D SLR); also had some VERY nice Canon FD lenses; then BAM! Canon went digital.....just like that ! "but what am I gonna do with all this "glass" that cost me a bundle ?" Canon: "Not our problem.....use 'em for door stops"!

I guess they figured if they came out with a new lens mount, everyone would just "run out" and buy all new glass ! I gotta tell you....that kinda pissed me off; (and please forgive my "course" language) So.......even before I went digital, I "upgraded" to a Nikon F-5; as far as I'm concerned, the thing has the finest view finder of any 35mm camera I have EVER looked through; I even bought a 300mm/ f:4 MF for it, an 80-200 / 2.8 , and about 4 more; guess what.........Nikon "went digital too"........and all that glass still works ! How's that ? Say you can't "get by" without auto focus ? Poor you! For some stuff, I prefer MF. (And I REALLY appreciate that Nikon didn't leave all of it's thousands of customers sitting with a pile of useless "glass" that they spent a fortune on !)

(I don't tell tell anyone who asks all of that; I just say "I prefer Nikon")

Charley

Or at the every least at a discount.

msmoto......

Using the back pack would also work, but there's just a bit more air in there, and it may have a bit of moisture in it; actually, all you're trying to do is to let the equipment warm up without being in contact with air, as air almost always has some moisture in it.

I guess no one has tried a Hoodman loupe; I noticed a used, "like new" one on eBay, that started out at $42; it took 4 days of waiting, but I scored it yesterday for $62 and free shipping; (better than paying $80 I guess!) I have noticed that my focus has been a little off in my night shots of Xmas lights, so I'm going to use this thing's 3X magnification to achieve more accurate manual focus.

Now I must run to the Court House.......just found out that you must give the county $20 for a license before you can get married !
Bummer, that ! ( I think 80 yr olds should be able to get married for free ! )

I own both the 200-400 and 600mmm vr lenses and they are quite different. If i am going out to shoot birds I take the 600 and it is most often too short. When I am traveling by airplane I only take the 200-400mm and do not shoot birds because it fits into a checked bag and still leaves room for clothing. The 600mm even in its own smalller bag will not fit in a carry on anything. I shoot a D3X and print many 24X36 images and I try to not use any tela-converters because of the degrading of the image. The 200-400 is too short for morst birding situations but works on larger animals and long senics very nicely. I had the 500mm F4 and bought the 200-400 and I found that i was not using the 500mm because there was not enough differance. Then I traded fort the 600mm F4 VR and I now use both. If you can only get one The 500mm VR would be my choice and I have owned all three. The VR does make a difference.

Time has past, since the last comment in this threat, but perhaps someone is still interested in finding a cheap working wifi-connection for the D4, that doens't need an internet connection.

Well, I have an easy-working one I paid about 50$ for. It looks complicate in the beginning, but once you've set it up, it works very stable and easily.

I use an asus WL-330N N150 WLAN AP, REPEATER,GATEWAY,BRIDGE (about 40$, it's tiny and looks professional and has an easy selfexplaining setup-programm) and an external battery (to power up the modem). I configured the WL-330N as an access point.

What you have to do first:

Download the software "Wireless Transmitter Utility" from Nikon https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/51367

Have the USB-cable for the camera ready.

Connect the camera with an ethernet cable to the pc.

Configure the camera D4:
In the D4 go to network menue, choose hardware, wired lan (go back), enalbe network connection, go to network settings, Create a profile, connection wizzard, choose Camera control if you want to use the software camera control Pro 2, name it, after that select "enter manually" to choose how the IP address ist optained. (you can choose for example 192.168.101.101). The subnet mask you don't have to change.

Now the pairing starts:
Connect the camera to the pc using the USB cable, then start the wireless transmitter utility. The software configures the IP-Address for the camera. You are almost done.

Connect the ethernet-cable from the camera to the asus-WL330N. Give the system a minute.

Go to the pc:
No go to thewireless-network of your computer an choose connect to the asus access point. Now its getting interesting. On windows-pc go to control Panel > Network and internet > Manage network connections. Select internet protocol version 4 (TCP/IPv4) choose properties > choose optain an IP adress manually and set the IP-number according to my example to 192.168.101.102. (it must be a number nearby the one from the camera IP-address).

Now we can start the connection:

Go back to the camera: network, network settings, the camera starts to connect, if it takes to long reconnect the wifi conection pc to asus. Now everything should be fine.

Next time you want to connect the camera to the pc you just have to do the last two steps. Enable Network connection on the camera. Start the wifi-connection pc to asus and don't forget to optain an IP number manually in the internet protocol version 4 (TCP/IPv4)properties. You can control the camera wireless without an internet connection.

Hope this gives you an idea, how to do it.

phototop