Can you PM me their link?

I'm in Nebraska and with the sparse population unfortunately there is no one in the area who does repairs anymore. I had a great shop in KC when I lived there that had been doing repairs since the 60's, but they finely went under in this economy. There is a great local shop but they send everything out and I have had a couple of lenses come back worse than they went out. They didn't work anyway but MF did and they were frozen when I got them back so I don't really want to go through them since I don't know who is touching it.

I am mechanically inclined so I probably easily fix it if it was just the matter of getting a part and replacing it or just making a spring. I'm amazed by how many repair shops rarely try to get parts unless they are new. Sad really.

Where are you located? I'm in the NYC area, and there is a really great old school shop in Manhattan called Photo Tech. AFAIK, this may be the last photo repair shop in New York City.

Years back the light meters in both my FTN and F2SB went south, and I went to a multitude (at the time, late '90s) of repair shops and they all told me they couldn't fix them because there were no more parts available for them.

I finally wound up at Photo Tech and they told me up front they may not e able to fix them, but they would at least take a look. Scored points with me right there. Got a call two days later with an estimate for both. I was stunned. Those meters had been dead for years and I relied on my Sekonic L-428 and Polaris SPD100 meters for exposures. They not only fixed them both, they re-calibrated the FTN prism to run on modern batteries. Needless to say, I was impressed. The meters still work to this day.

So if you're still in a bind for a repair shop that stands a pretty good chance of fixing your body, check these guys out:http:

Thanks guys I'll take a look when I get this roll out. Something seems like it wants to catch but doesn't so it probably is cog or something that is worn down. I'm sure it is probably is attached to the multiple exposure lever but the lever works as it should as well. I really do not want this one to go - love this camera. Next will be to find the part and replace it.

If anyone has any good parts or repair shops please pm me the link - it may come in handy.

Thanks guys.

Now that you mention it, Niko may be right about the lever. It was years ago that I sent it in to be repaired. I just remember them telling me to fix the housing and the problem would probably go away.

My FM2 has the same problem. I'm guessing that there is some small limiter connected to the winding lever which has either worn out or broken and as Niko I don't think that it is connected with the multiple exposure lever. I suspect that you can have it fixed at some old-fashioned camera shop that still has someone with the know-how to dismantle and repair such cameras.

I've solved it so that I advance the film right before the next shot, especially as I take the FM2 out when I really think that the scene is suitable to be shot on BW film. I do get the occasional empty frame but that doesn't bother me so much any more. I've also heard that with such mechanical cameras it isn't good to keep the mechanism cocked for a long period of time as it will tire the springs inside the camera.

TTJ

I would suspect the Mutiple exposure lever

The Nikon FE and FM series has a functional double exposure lever design. It permited single hand operation for virtually unlimited double/multiple exposures . it is just next to the film advance lever I think.

I do not have one any more, so I am going from memory, but it allowed you to cock the shutter with out advancing the film, the opposite of your problem.

maybe just maybe, this little lever could be the problem, check its operation

But the multi-exposure lever only resets the shutter. If it were stuck or engaging then it wouldn't allow the film to advance.

I have an FM2 with this issue. My problem stems from a small dent in the housing which in inadvertently triggers the multiple shutter release. Basically, replace the housing, fix the problem. I haven't fixed mine because I no longer shoot film, but the repair place told me that this would fix it.

Looking for some people who know some of the mechanisms of the old F systems.

I have an FE2 that I need some help identifying film advance issue. The issue is that the film can advance even without releasing the shutter.

Anyone know which part needs to be replaced or fixed?

Thanks for your help guys! The blank frames are killing me ;)

You can control the aperture by using tape to fix the aperture pin (don't put tape on the ring, but on the lens mount to prevent the aperture from stopping all the way down). This is a DIY solution I occasionally use to do things like mount my 11-16 on my FM2 (it works surprisingly well, certainly much cheaper than buying a used 14mm or 15mm).

If you do this, use a good tape that is removable (professional framing tape works, if it's for VERY short term use you could use masking tape or painter's tape too), and that you only need a little bit (on the order of a few square mm). Also you need to meter, since the FM2 doesn't do stop down metering- the easiest way is to stick it on a dslr in manual mode and lower the aperture in 1/3 stops- when the image doesn't change anymore, you have found the aperture that you fixed the lens at.

As with any DIY solutions, you do this at your own risk etc..

>> have a two G lenses that are buggers \,,

Are those lense DX lenses by any chance.. ? , then you'll have havy vignetting as well on you FM2 at 35mm film ( = "Full Format" or "FX format"....).

Which is a long thread to say 'no'. Bugger. If one existed, I'd buy it. It is a LOT cheaper to get one adapter than suffer through Sigma and buy older lenses. I don't live in a house. Currently, I am living in a few places till next year and cannot afford both the money for lenses (that I want to check myself are good and usable) and to transport them around. No room. Anyway, thanks for all the responses.

Tao...

I am astounded by your comment of "any lens will do".

Maybe if you are into lomo stuff, but there is just as much of a difference in lens quality on film as there is in digital, if not more, due to the fact that there is no automatic correction of abberations.

Also, such adapters would only work for any given model of lens, all G lenses have different aperture ranges, which means that no single adapter could be used for the AI-pin placement. It would be cheaper to get a few good old Nikkors and go nuts.

A "Fools errand" if you ask me. Just buy some used MF lenses.

If one did exist, cheap crappy adapters usually run close to $100. Good ones - $350.
A 50mm 1.8 E-series lens runs about $50 on ebay.
A Sigma 24mm 2.8 MF runs for $18.

When it comes to film these days, as long as you are not doing commercial/ paid work, any lens will do. I personally like the crappy Sears lenses for their "artistic" touch to an image.

I haven't heard of such an adapter. Changing the flange distance would mean that you cannot focus to infinity anymore (like using an extension ring). To compensate that you would need to add some optics to the adapter. Basically you need a 1x Teleconverter with the ability to "translate" from electronic aperture setting (camera communication to G-lens) to mechanical.

I don't think that someone would bother to produce something like this - unfortunately. But if you find one, let us know!

Even if such an adapter were available it would be very expensive. At least a couple of hundred dollars or around the same price as getting another lens.

The price of Nikon's older lenses has shot up in recent months. Even before the earthquake. I blame the D7000 and it's ability to shoot older lenses. I also blame mirrorless cameras from Panasonic and Olympus. Older lenses that nobody wanted are now popular again. Lenses for those systems use to sell for 10 or 20 dollars. Now they fetch hundreds. Luckily i can still buy Canon's FD lenses for under $100.

I don't mind losing the G stuff. I have the lenses and cannot afford more, manual AF-D, or not. Actually, my favourite: a 50 1,2 from the first batch is having major troubles and Nikon don't reckon they can fix is as the parts here are no longer available. The part in question is the aperture ring.

I am currently unemployed and will probably not be employed for more than 1 month in the next 6, so buying lenses (even if employed as I have a wife...) is sadly out of the question. I'm all for concessions right now, but it looks like I have none availabe.

FM2 is manual, why go through the trouble when you can get great manual focus lenses for very small money compared to the cost of G lenses.

then you loose all the advantages the G lenses have over the older lenses, as Niko said "That's why you are better off just getting used AF-D and older lenses"

and they will no longer be G and maybe loose the electrical contacts.

not worth the trouble, sell them and get D lenses, still work with your D200 and the Fm.

I have 3 G lenses, but have a different set of manual focus lenses for my F3.

That's why you are better off just getting used AF-D and older lenses.

By the way I just spent this weekend burning some Pro 800Z film with my FM2 while waiting for the world to end.

Yes, I realise that, but an altered flange distance would still be better than not using the lens at all. I have extension tubes, etc., that also alter the distance, but they don't allow me to change the aperture of my lens.

Such an adapter would alter the flange focal distance.

I have an FM2 that I quite love and a D200. I also have a two G lenses that are buggers because of the lack of aperture ring. Does anyone know of an aperture ring that will convert (with, I assume, some loss) a G lens to an AI-S lens?