Mine took just a little over two weeks from Oregon to LA, CA.

Indecline, how long did it take to get your camera fixed, I am planning on sending mine in tomorrow MI to NY for the exact same problem

I can happily report that I got my D800e back this Monday from Nikon in Califorina. They repaired the 10 pin without any question, I also asked them to check the left focus and the RO stated that they checked and adjusted the focus. All repairs under warranty. Of course I had to pay for shipping and insurance to Nikon. the bad news is they send the camera back without insurance. :(

This issue just rots my socks, to spend this kind of money on a camera and have it fail in less than a month, the worse part is Nikon won't issue a recall so at this time we are at their mercy at what cause they arrive at......warranty repair or......impact damage. I hear that they try for the impact damage first, unless you hold fast against that, the problem with that is, they hold all the cards. I posted on another forum last night and I was informed that if you are in Britain the retailer is obliged to replace the camera and they deal with Nikon unfortunately it is not the way here in the good ole USA, we have to deal with Nikon.

Unfortunately the 10-pin socket in my D800 broke down too, after one use. I hope it will get repaired under warranty.

Indecline said:
My 800e has a broken 10 pin socket just like the photo above.

Hello new to the forum joined to add to the list of unfortunate's who has purchased a D800E only to have the 10 pin socket come loose in the socket after (3) short weeks of ownership. I use(d) the remote quite a bit as I have been doing a lot of night shooting with all the Christmas lights and displays of late. I have contacted the retailer (Gary Camera of Merrillville IN) who has told me that I need to contact Nikon. These guys were great in the front end, but I am sure disappointed with them now, I don't know who to be more disappointed with, Nikon or Gary Camera! Anyway I am about to send my camera into Nikon for evaluation "as they put it" I hope that they replace it as opposed to fix it, as I don't think a camera this new should experience this kind of failure. I will let you all know how it goes in the future, I imagine 3-4 weeks.

In the meantime I will have to use my stand-by 700

Serial #3008459

Mark

I just got my D800e a week ago. Yesterday I took it out and used the 10-pin connector for the first time. Today I went to plug into it again and found it was broken just like the others talked about in this thread - pushed down and off center. I'm going to send it back to the retailer, but truthfully, I'm fearful the next one won't last any better. I will definitely be more careful with it and probably won't tighten the ring. Having a 10-pin on the front instead of a connection port inside the side flap door was a big part of my decision to get the D800 over the D600. What a big disappointment and such a sinking feeling to know my new baby is broken already.

Serial number: 3010xxx

Yes mine broke too. I have been using those connectors in my blimps for many years with film cameras, then a D2X, D300, D700 and now D800. Never any problem before in over ten years until now. It's in the shop, and i am using a loaner (not a D800.) a friend in England has reports of this occuring in the UK.

The problem with the connector is a design flaw that until this body didn't seem to matter, which makes me think they are getting the plugs from a new source. With most connectors, such as on a coax cable, the threads are on the socket element such that screwing on the plug draws the two together. On the ten pin, the threads are on the surrounding cavity; therefore the plug can be drawn into the cavity but if for any reason it is misaligned or there is an obstruction (bent pin, jammed pinhole) the plug exerts force on the inner piece and forces it to the point of failure. I can't tell you how ugly it felt to see green circuit board in the hole! My workaround will be to attach an MC-22A to the body and leave it on, then jump the other end of the cord to a new set of connectors in the blimp, so that I am not repeatedly challenging the fitting of the plug. Annoying! But I still love my Nikons.

Meleagris- My D800 came with the latest updates installed. Have not had this problem. Hope you get this resolved. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I was wondering if anyone had had issues with a D800 or D800E locking up since the new firmware came along? I have had my D800E lock up 3 times now. Each time an err is displayed and you can not turn the camera off. It is completely loced up and all I can do to recover it is to follow the steps below.

Turn off (even though it doesn't)
Remove battery
Remove cards
Wait period of time (20 sec) and reinstall battery.
Turn on (err is still flashing)
shoot a picture sans cards (Err disappears)
reinsert cards and go

I can find no pattern to the lockups. I have tried many solutions to unlock the error but only the sequence above seems to help. I was thinking this problem was solved with the latest firmware but it appears I have the latest version available.

Is there a solution to this I have missed short of the 6+ week trip to Nikon USA for warranty repairs?

JB

@corigliano: Having not use shutter propriety in a very, very, long time on any of my bodies, never the less, I just pulled out my D4 and test it out. The only thing I noticed when I was trying to get proper exposure, the F-stop would start to flash indicating that I was not at the right shutter speed for the lighting in the room. The exposure indicator on the right side, while looking threw the viewfinder also showed up indicating that I was under exposed. Are these the things you are referring to?

I have had my d4 for about three months now. Twice I have seen a problem with the meter indicator inside the view finder. The problem is as following. When in shutter priority mode the metering indicator pops up in the viewfinder and starts going crazy. I havent reached below my maximum aperture and am not using bracketing or exposure compensation. There should be no reason to even see the metering indicator. Any suggestions??

Indeed I have a D4 and I noted the left focus issue (not existing at all in live view with the same scenery and exposure) when I use the 24-70 at 24mm at f2.8. it is ok at center sensor and better (than left) but not perfect on right sensor. The problem exists also on the left sensors that are not fully left. I am seeing with Nikon suisse or germany if they can address the problem that apparently has been successfully fixed by Nikon repair centers on D800 at least. And my unit was quite new as bought in August and embodying already the latest fw. I am a little bit disappointed as I discovered it unintentionally when just shooting pics.
cheers

bird, to toss something at you .. is the lens secure and if you can set the aperture is is locked at the proper setting ? I have a lens that I sometimes bump and the lock doesnt keep it at f22 and i get the ERR message. just a thought

I shot about 10 seconds worth of video this morning before my memory card reported itself full and my battery died. Changed out memory cards, reformatted, changed battery. Suddenly there is a flashing "Err" sign in the Control Panel. I tried changing batteries, cards, tried reminding the camera that it is in S Mode in order to coax the mirror down. No response yet. Still the "err" message. Is there a way to reboot the camera?

The 10 pin connector socket has come loose on a number of cameras. Apparently the redesign of the body near the connector has reduced the clearance around the connector creating potential for problems.

I've seen one report of a 3rd party GPS device that worked with earlier cameras causing the damage. The solution for the GPS device was to grind or shave the plastic housing on the GPS device to make it fit. The Nikon GPS device works fine.

Nikon has been mixed in their response. I have seen this repaired under warranty and I have seen a charge of $225 for user damage caused by a non-Nikon accessory. The repair is easy but requires a trip to Nikon or Authorized Service.

The bill only says they replaced the connector, and i didn't ask the tech. I was just happy to get it back so quickly and free of charge. I have read of others being charged for repairs to the connector, or for repairs to fix bent pins on the cf slot on a D4, calling it misuse or impact damage, so just wanted to pick it up and go. The only thing i know for sure is it happened the one time i decided to actually screw it in instead of just pushing it, so I'm not going to tighten it anymore.

Did they say what had given way? Might be useful info to other owners who experience the same failure, and to get an idea if there is a manufacturing fault.

I'm glad that worked out, ray.

Got a call from Nikon today, my camera was ready to be picked up. Repaired the 10 pin connector, cleaned the sensor, only took 1 week, and all covered under warranty. I'm a happy camper. Hope the repair takes care of the problem, that it isn't a design flaw.

I had two occasions where my D800 displayed an error message and would not work. Both were my errors. Once I had a MF lens mounted but had failed to set it to the minimum f stop. That was fEE code. The other time I had a remote release attached which I had accidently placed into the locked on position for time exposures thus keeping the shutter open until I unlocked it. That was a blinking ERR code. Hopefully, yours is some unrealized error you can clear yourself without having to send your camera in.

RoldanImages said:
I got my D800 a month ago, last night my camera just crashed in a middle of my shoot.
The Flash is not working, the LED screen on the back is not working, Ive tried different SD cards. Prior to this the camera was working fine. The camera will not shoot pics or video and a Constant ERR message on the top of the screen.

The manual does not have a constant err, but a blinking one suggests this:
"Release shutter. If error
persists or appears
frequently, consult
Nikon-authorized
service representative"

The other message which looks similar is fEE and this is about a lens not being set to its minimum aperture. You might try removing the battery, charging it fully, then resetting the camera, if possible.

Also, make certain the camera is powered down before making any battery removal, card removal, or lens changing procedures.

I have tried to resist the temptation to get involved in this discussion, but ProRes HQ is visually lossless compression with extra headroom as compared to regular ProRes and is 10 times the data rate of the internal card recording, which is not all that bad. I have a D4 with the Ninja 2 and in my experience the recording is fabulous, detailed and clean. Ultimately I usually have to output this as h.264 movie, which is still fantastic on my 27" computer. When uploaded to Vimeo or YouTube, it looks not so good. At the end of the day, visually lossless compression is all that you really need. For the same reason, I take RAW photos with the same D4 at lossless 12 bit compression. Sure, I could use 14 bit and no compression...but why?
By the way, I do believe that the HDMI output is 8 bit and wrapped in a 10 bit container by the Ninja, for whatever that is worth. Each frame of ProRes HQ is a very nice image. The files are already large in ProRes HQ, I would not want them any larger.

The Ninja records a 10-bit 4:2:2 stream just like the blackmagic. That's not the differentiating factor here. It's really "uncompressed" vs. ProRes compressed. Am I mistaken?

Again, I'm not engaging in an intellectual debate for the mere fun of it. I added my input for the sole purpose of establishing:

A) that the Ninja was a pretty smoking deal compared with the other options in the market — one that would likely suit 99% of the readers on this forum, and

B) (assuming there are differences) that I am interested in seeing real-world examples of those differences, and how they might have an affect in real-world situations.

I may well be confusing colorspace and data streams. I don't fully understand those. But to be honest, I don't really care. I'm not saying I WON'T care, or SHOULDN'T care, just that I'm not sure why I would care until I can see a plain reason why it matters for ME, PERSONALLY (at which point I would ask whether it matters for others, and if so I would seek to pathetically communicate the reasons why they should be concerned with it as well).

I cannot recommend something I don't understand. I cannot understand something I don't care about. I will not care about something unless I sense a need which I might have in doing so.

In plain English, it is not data streams and colorspaces and lossy vs. lossless that I care about. I care about end-results. This is not to say I don't understand or won't learn about these things. I will work backwards through any and all other technical details necessary the moment I realize that they are affecting said end-results.

Do you have any end-results showing the differences between straight streams (as from the HDS; I hate calling them "uncompressed") and ProRes streams from something like the Ninja?

I hope you guys realize that you might as well be speaking in a foreign language... this stuff is totally over my head. I need to go back to kindergarten on this.