If you can get one for $100-150, with a 18-55vr lens sure - but I wouldn't pay more than that. As everyone else has said, it's sensor shows it's age. D3100, D3200, D5000, D5100, even an older D90 would be a good starter if the price was right.

I usually suggest staying with-in 2 generations or 3 years from release of a camera. Get much more outside of that and the dated tech starts becoming annoying.

It can do, but I personally wouldn't recommend it. There are several generations of new cameras out as don pointed out. You can find D5000 or D5100's for a very good price now...much better sensors and performance.

Over a year ago I bought a used D40 for about $250 just to play with it and then gave it away to a relative. It is an ok camera and certainly fully capable of producing many of the photos you see on PAD. Remember PAD is only showing a 0.5 megapixel image and the D40 produces a 6 megapixel image so an original D40 image is automatically downsized by your computer in the background to display the image on PAD. However, if starting into photography I would suggest you purchase a D3200 rather than a D40 simply because the D5200 is two generations newer in technology. If a D3200 is outside of your price range look for a D3100 which is one generation newer in technology than a D40. The "kit" lens of 18-55mm which usually comes with a D40, D3100, or D3200 is fully adequate to start with.

Here are some links for the D40.

http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=6066
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=5705
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=60

I think some others will comment on the generic issue of purchasing a D40, but no one can really comment on a specific camera for sale.

I want to get into photography, but i got lost, already, on my starting point.
I found this D40 for exchange and i was wondering , since it's an old model, if it's worth getting it.

PB PM: thanks I'll look into that...

@TaoTeJared - its the image not the actual focus point on the view finder. I'll have to figure out how to do the AF-L button.. I'm not familiar with it.

Will keep you posted :) thanks!

Is the image out of focus or are you talking about the actual focus point on your camera's view finder?

The forehead is closer to you than the eyes. You probably just want to use single area and Lock (AF-L) the focus point on the eyes when you shoot. See if that works.

If not then I could be out of alignment.

Sounds like a classic case of the lenses focus being out of alignment. To get that fixed you would need to send the lens and camera in to Nikon for adjustment.

I have looked and cannot find anything on google or this forum to address this issue..

I just acquired my 50mm a few months ago, and since then I have still not mastered this issue:

D40 only has 3 focus options: Closest subject (camera sets focal point for you); Dynamic Area - I can toggle between the 3 sensors; and Single Area.

Generally I keep my camera in Dynamic area when I have the 50mm on. My problem is that when I stop to an f/2.8 or bigger (ie down to a 1.8) my image focus point is about 1" above where I actually wanted the focus to be. In other words; if i'm doing a close up of filling my view with the subjects face the focal spot is on the forhead not the eyes....

Do you think this is an issue for my newbieness to the nifty fifty; or could this just be a cam issue? Sensor is clean; lens works great on smaller aper f/10 (mostly for when I need to take that step back a few feet to get the full frame of the subject) etc but when i start opening it up I can't get there...

I second the D7000 recommendations, it is probably the best camera for you, given your actual glass. My friend has one and it is a truly fantastic small camera. For sure it is not comparable to the D700 which is way better in every aspect (except video of course), but beside your 50mm 1.8g, you would need new lenses and they are not cheap.

I would second the D7000. If you are willing to wait until the new dx cameras are released, you can also probably get a better deal on a d7000, but realistically speaking, new stuff comes out all the time, so you might as well get it now if you want.

thank you :) I know bodies are a dime a dozen.. I have good glass.. i can upgrade glass.. but I am tired of only being stuck with af-s lenses..

D7000.

Or wait till fall for the D7100 or the D400.

We don't know about these two since they are not out yet but chances are very good they will be significantly better than the D7000. You could also go to a used D80 or D90: both of which would give you a noticeable improvement over your D40. But "wise money" is usually spent on the latest technology.

Okay, I need to upgrade my d40 (purchased 2006). I have the 55-300mm vr, i have the kit lens 18-55mm (non vr), and I'm still waiting on my 50mm 1.8g. The problem is, my camera only uses AF-S g lenses to auto-focus... I have not learned how to manual focus, and knowing me..i probably never will. I don't care so much for video, but if it has it great. I am open and listening to all suggestions :-) trying to keep it under $2k (preferrably less if I can to get a second prime :) ) and need something that ALL lenses will auto focus on. This is a biggie! I have compared and reasearched until I'm blue in the face but... now I need expert opinions please.. I mostly shoot family and portraiture -- some events and weddings.... so....any help would appreciated! Thanks folks!

Hi pxixtxa,

Most of the new Nikon lenses are really sharp, and if you don't want to change lenses, you really don't have to, for sharpness anyway.

Lenses changes are done for other reasons - the quality of the photo, such as the depth of field (a wide aperture narrows the depth focusing on the subject, perhaps), the angle of view that the lens itself provides, and in the case of a zoom, the convenience of framing your composition.

Wider apertures also let more light in to let you use the camera in lower light with lower ISO settings for finer grain pictures.

Some people (I'm but one) like to use flash in a lot of photos even if the photos look like there's no flash used. That used to involve a lot of figuring out, and a flash meter, but Nikon's Creative Lighting System (CLS) has made that a lot easier. You can read up on it at Nikonusadotcom.

You camera and mine have APS-C sensors, which see what the eye sees at a normal angle of view (roughly) at with a 35mm lens. Portraits tend to favor a slightly more telephoto lens such as the 50mm or greater, which also gives you a slightly more 'standoff' from the subject, too. I sometimes use a 105mm f2.8 Micro. It has a great bokeh (the amount, quality, and shape of the blur associated with 'out of focus' from the subject.

Welcome to photography. I hope you enjoy it.

My best,

Mike

I put on my 50mm when I have time to compose the shot or I need the best possible resolution/clarity.

I put on my 50-200mm when I am outdoors or need a reach not offered by my other lenses or have lots of room to back up and want a nice background without the loss in resolution I get from widening my 50's aperture.

I put on my 17-50mm when I really need wide angle or am handing the camera to someone that I don't like.

Thank you all so very much! My knowledge while limited is mostly self taught and googled. I simply ended up frustrated bcuz I don't "understand" but honestly what y'all have said has helped TREMENDOUSLY! I just needed lamens terms so to speak. ;). I get it now about lens changes and dslr - someone else had eluded to the fact lens changes are good (and scared me to the point I thought I was screwing up with them). That's why I said no lense changes.. If that makes sense. My Heros of the day, THANK YOU!!!!!

Welcome to NR pxixtxa.

As TaoTeJared hinted at in his own unique humor, your question are all, what I like to refer to them as, "open-ended" questions. Their are no short answers...my hats off to tcole1983 in addressing some of your question. My recommendation is to make use of the many YouTube videos that are available verses us trying to explain the world of digital photography. Spend some time watching the videos and having your camera next to you, so you can practice the things they show you. Once you have some more specific questions then we will be more than happy to give you some "guiding light."

Happy shooting...cheers.

There is no real shortcut to the questions you asked. In one paragraph you just about covered about 20 of the 30 books I own on photography and have spent years learning and continue to learn every day on. In essence you kind of asked us to pick two numbers that add to 100. 99+1, 40+60, -350+450, etc. there are endless possibilities, ways, and situations to answer your questions.

Since you are just starting out, you should look at taking some classes at a local photo shop or community college and getting a good beginners book (any by Tom Ang are a great start). I think everyone beginning benefits by having a hands on experience with someone there to guide you through your questions. Once you get the base knowledge of photography things will start to become clear.

That may not give you the answer you are looking for, but I'm afraid without the base we may just confuse you more than help.

Wow lots of questions. I think I would start my googling some info on photography or getting a book. Reading online I think you can probably find most of the answers to your questions. I can try to touch on a couple of these.

Lenses: You got a dSLR...you will change lenses weather you like it or not. Your lenses are good and the only other option for a one lens solution is the 18-200, but it doesn't go to 300 mm so you lose that end of the range. Anyway at 50 mm, your 50 mm prime will be the sharpest and I am unsure which one you have, but it has a lower f-stop then the rest of your lenses. Lower f-stop means it lets more light in and gives you a more narrow depth of field. Shooting lenses wide open...or the lowest f-stop they go will cause a smaller portion of the picture to be in focus while the rest is out of focus. Your 50 mm will be the best in low light because it can open wider...ie the largest aperture or lowest f-stop.

Camera Mode: Read your manual on this. Basically every mode, but M (manual) will automatically set things for you. If you have been shooting in S then you are just adjusting the shutter speed, while the camera is adjusting the aperture for you. If you shoot A then you can change the f-stop. I generally shoot in this mode.

Flashes: All the Nikon flashes are pretty good. The SB400 being the weakest but smallest and then going up to the SB910 which is the most powerful but a big one. The more powerful the flash the greater distance they will be effective. Look on Nikon's website and it will have specs and stuff. They are helpful and anyone who is somewhat serious about photography probably has at least one. Also the better the flash the more options they usually have.

Black and White: You just have to play with them on this. The camera setting to do this doesn't do a good job IMO. A picture editing software is the only way to go really and from there you just have to adjust it until you like it.

ISO: In low light situations raising the ISO will allow the camera to gather more light. In low light situations it is usually the only way to get a decent picture with appropriate shutter speeds...such as if anything is moving. Upping the ISO also degrades the picture quality. If you bump the ISO up all the way on your D40 the pictures will look bad. The newer bodies can handle higher ISO with less picture degradation, but it is always best to shoot the lowest ISO you can.

I am new to photography and this forum. I am confused primarily on the uses for each lens. Please be nice when replying, I'm sorry if its already a posted thread but I have searched for quite some time.

When is the best time to use each lens? I have a D40 (not the X) and I want I just completed a photo session using the 55-300. While I loved the pictures done from afar, I don't want to continually do lens changes to get up close and personal. So what if anything do you suggest? How do I get black and white to be so...non-Photoshop Portrait B/W - in other words...more natural? What is the best flash to use if not using the standard camera flash (I know even less on flashes)....Also, on the turn wheel I shoot in "S" is this the best way to shoot? (I don't like the Auto and I'm trying to learn)..I keep my lenses in Auto and zoom as needed and have the VR set on the 55-300mm since I don't use a tripod (is this okay to be on at all times?)..lastly why is ISO important? And everyon talks about "f" do I need to make sure I start "setting" my f-stop manually or isn't just adjusted as it zooms/focuses?

Several questions here btw. Anyone mentoring in the Tx DFW area???

http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=1292
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=2198
http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=1631

Hi all,

Is it wedding or weddings? I saw weddings, and multiple flash is one of the best ways to stand out and make sure that you can light your groups properly especially using Nikon's Creative Lighting System. I have several flashes and use them all.

Again, if it's a friend's wedding and a 'one of', perhaps go with what you have.

My best,

Mike

POW

You are not shooting weddings professionally, yes?

Here's what I suggest you to do. Get 35mm 1.8 or Nikon SB600 or Nikon SB700. Learn to use flash properly and that will be much more useful than getting another lens for shooting weddings.

Otherwise get 35mm 1.8 and have fun.

Mike, Why do I need a lot of flash? and two SB900's for one camera :/ seems a bit much.