Welcome to Nikon Rumors, and thanks for the tip. I can't believe Nikon has the gall to charge $900 USD for a wireless adaptor. I hope you don't mind if I post this on another Nikon site.

Thank You

Time has past, since the last comment in this threat, but perhaps someone is still interested in finding a cheap working wifi-connection for the D4, that doens't need an internet connection.

Well, I have an easy-working one I paid about 50$ for. It looks complicate in the beginning, but once you've set it up, it works very stable and easily.

I use an asus WL-330N N150 WLAN AP, REPEATER,GATEWAY,BRIDGE (about 40$, it's tiny and looks professional and has an easy selfexplaining setup-programm) and an external battery (to power up the modem). I configured the WL-330N as an access point.

What you have to do first:

Download the software "Wireless Transmitter Utility" from Nikon https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/51367

Have the USB-cable for the camera ready.

Connect the camera with an ethernet cable to the pc.

Configure the camera D4:
In the D4 go to network menue, choose hardware, wired lan (go back), enalbe network connection, go to network settings, Create a profile, connection wizzard, choose Camera control if you want to use the software camera control Pro 2, name it, after that select "enter manually" to choose how the IP address ist optained. (you can choose for example 192.168.101.101). The subnet mask you don't have to change.

Now the pairing starts:
Connect the camera to the pc using the USB cable, then start the wireless transmitter utility. The software configures the IP-Address for the camera. You are almost done.

Connect the ethernet-cable from the camera to the asus-WL330N. Give the system a minute.

Go to the pc:
No go to thewireless-network of your computer an choose connect to the asus access point. Now its getting interesting. On windows-pc go to control Panel > Network and internet > Manage network connections. Select internet protocol version 4 (TCP/IPv4) choose properties > choose optain an IP adress manually and set the IP-number according to my example to 192.168.101.102. (it must be a number nearby the one from the camera IP-address).

Now we can start the connection:

Go back to the camera: network, network settings, the camera starts to connect, if it takes to long reconnect the wifi conection pc to asus. Now everything should be fine.

Next time you want to connect the camera to the pc you just have to do the last two steps. Enable Network connection on the camera. Start the wifi-connection pc to asus and don't forget to optain an IP number manually in the internet protocol version 4 (TCP/IPv4)properties. You can control the camera wireless without an internet connection.

Hope this gives you an idea, how to do it.

phototop

You have a lovely camera that is almost brand new! I sold mine to get a D800 and whilst I love the D800, I miss the D700 that was by far the best (digital) camera I ever owned. I wish I could have kept it but.........

Hello,
Thanks for all your suggestions. I now have done a shutter count on my recently
bought S/H D700 and it comes out to 464! I paid A$1450 plus spare battery.
Cheers, Pino.

so this is normal? (by the way the photo is upside down)

nah that is just the structure of the blades.. the shutter mechanism is not on both sides but in your case probably the right side.. so the blades need to be thicker on the side where the forces are applied. Like a shelf mounting, the end close to the wall is thicker.

Hello!

I just upgraded from d5100 to a d7000 and I noticed that the shutter is not parallel to the body!I attached a photo that I took with my cellphone so bad quality but you will understand what I mean!

here is a link to the photo => "

The question is is there others that have the same things and this is normal and nothing to worry about it?

thank you

Keep in mind that a D700 with 30,000 to 50,000 actuations is really just broken in and would make a great deal if picked up used.

@golf007sd, there is also a "Nikon" tab on that same dialog that calls the same value "shutter count". The reason I like reveal is that it's a tiny standalone program that displays all of the EXIF data. I grew up on unix so I guess I have a tool mentality. Most apps are like Swiss army knives with a small chainsaw attached. Yes, you can use that Phillips head screwdriver on the knife in a pinch, but I like a real (standalone) screwdriver for most tasks. Really just boils down to personal preference I guess :-}

There is a free program called KUSO EXIF Viewer that works great and displays the shutter count. You can download it here: *LINK REMOVED*

Ironheart said:
I use a program called "reveal" on the Mac.

Why not just bring it up in Preview and then hit command-I and then look at the EXIF info. Forth from the bottom where it says "image number."

I use a program called "reveal" on the Mac.

I use the software Opanda load a pic into it (like flickr) and you should find it...

Try loading an image in your computer and look at Exif data. If the "Image number" is available it should show up there. If you cannot get the Exif data in your computer, load to Flickr. It should be available there.

Hello,
Does anybody know how to determine the number of shutter actuations on a used Nikon D700 ?
Cheers, Pino.

Mac The knife said:
I bought a D70s off of Ebay that ended up having a stuck shutter. While emailing the seller, I found a web page detailing what a guy did to fix his, and did the same, but without the scissors. I may have got lucky, but I kept the camera, and the seller and I agreed upon a 50 dollar refund.

That repair job only works of you're hoping that the stuck shutter will unstick itself. I wouldn't invest in a possibly dud camera.

Here's the webpage,,,, http://johnbagnell.blogspot.com/2009/08/how-to-fix-d70s-or-d70-shutter.html

I bought a D70s off of Ebay that ended up having a stuck shutter. While emailing the seller, I found a web page detailing what a guy did to fix his, and did the same, but without the scissors. I may have got lucky, but I kept the camera, and the seller and I agreed upon a 50 dollar refund.

You can get a very nice D70s or D50 from Adorama used for $150-200. For more money a more current body such as a D90 or other. Having an old body repaired is way too expensive. Once a body is several years old, unless it is a pro body, repairs are almost more than what it is worth.

Find another body. Take it for free. Working $120 - $200tops

framer

Hi Bob,

Welcome to the forum.

I would pass on that one if it were me. Presuming you would get it repaired, you would end up paying quite a lot for a really old tech camera. If you are thinking of getting it converted to infra-red, then it may be worth it but it doesn't sound like that's your plan.

Hi All,
I am Bob with an opportunity to buy a D60 (body only) with a known stuck shutter for about $50. I currently have an N2000 that does not work, no display in viewfinder with new batteries, but know that lenses will work on D60. Is this fixable, cheap, or should I look for another. Also will my lenses work on any other Nikon digital camera?

Cheers,
Bob

The NPU is active and both D800 and D4 are on the list

Had a great day at Calument Manchester with a full team of NPU Staff using the latest Nikon Video equipment, Discussions on Lighting, FCP X ,Professional cameraman give great tips and full use of all Nikon gear
A really great day out put on by Nikon Uk Staff.

http://www.europe-nikon.com/en_GB/pro/Pro_NPU.page?

TaoTeJared said:
I have had the same thoughts - as a second camera with a 35mm lens. If you use a 35mm range on a second body and you think about it, even a D600 ($2,000) and a 35mm f2 AFD lens puts you at the same price but more weight - and for what?

For backup in case your main camera fails, you can still use the same lenses, accessories, etc.

For weddings most likely you wont need/want to manage two cameras hanging off your neck with two different lenses / settings / ergonomics (especially if you have a 2nd shooter already taking pictures). You're probably better off with one solid main camera, a few lenses to swap, and a backup body tucked away, just in case. And that backup body doesn't need to be a brand new D600 either.

That RX1 might be an excellent camera for the 2nd shooter, however. (Though again it might be preferable if the 2nd shooter uses the same gear system as the main photographer -- just in case.)

sevencrossing said:
Now if the Rx 1 had a 24mm f 1.4 then yes, I would be tempted

I think I would prefer 24mm too, and as for f1.4, msmoto is correct, it would be lovely to have, but would hardly make for a pocketable camera. I think they have done a pretty good job giving such a small camera a FF sensor and an f2!