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Phottix released their new Odin TTL flash trigger for Nikon

Today Phottix released their new Odin TTL flash trigger for Nikon cameras:

Photographers can wirelessly trigger TTL flashes, retaining full TTL functions, as well as remotely control power and flash zoom settings. Shooting with off-camera TTL flash has been made incredibly easy. Reliable wireless radio-based TTL triggering and remote power control is here.

Functions

  • Wireless 2.4GHz. TTL and Manual Flash Triggering
  • Remote power control of groups in TTL with +/- EV adjustments (3 stops in 1/3 stop increments - 18 different levels.)
  • Remote manual mode flash power control with 1/3 stop adjustments
  • Remote flash head zoom adjustments – auto or manual
  • Mix TTL and Manual flash – fire some groups in TTL, others as manual
  • Remote power control in A:B ratio modes with +/- EV adjustments
  • High speed sync – shutter speeds up to 1/8000 sec.
  • Second curtain sync functions
  • Compatible with Phottix Strato 4-in-1 and Phottix Strato II Multi 5-in-1 Wireless Triggers
  • Upgradeable firmware via built-in USB port.
  • What does the Odin offer?
  • The Phottix Odin TTL Trigger consists of an on-camera transmitter and control unit (TCU) and receiver units for compatible hot shoe flashes.

The Odin offers photographers four wireless channels and three flash control group designations. Flashes can be controlled in TTL or manual mode, or A:B ratio mode with EV +/- adjustments of three stops.

What makes the Phottix Odin unique is the ability to designate groups in TTL/Mixed mode. Individual groups, A, B, C, can also be controlled in TTL mode with EV +/- adjustments. Groups can also be set to Manual mode, adjusting power levels remotely in 1/3 stop increments, or turned off.

Zooming ahead

Flash head zoom canbe dynamically adjusted as photographers adjust their lenses. Flash zoom can also be easily adjusted manually and set statically from 24 to 105 mm. The Phottix Odin system will also trigger compatible non-TTL flashes and studio strobes.

Compatible with the Phottix Strato series

The Phottix Odin TTL Flash Trigger for Nikon is backward-compatible* with with Phottix Strato 4-in-1 and Phottix Strato II Multi 5-in-1 Wireless Triggers. Current Phottix users will have no problem adding the Odin to their systems. As the world of cameras and flashes is always changing the Photix Odin system can be upgraded when needed using the built-in USB ports.

What's included:

  • Phottix Odin TCU Transmitter
  • Phottix Odin Receiver
  • 4x AA Batteries
  • 3.5mm to PC Sync Cable
  • 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable
  • 6.3mm adapter
  • USB Cable
  • Lanyard
  • Instructions CD

Technical Specs:

  • Frequency: 2.4 GHz
  • Distance: 100m+
  • Channels: 4 channels
  • Groups: 3 groups – A, B, C
  • Batteries: 2 x AA batteries (TCU and Receiver), 5V DC on receiver (external power port)
  • Max sync speed: 1/8000 sec*
  • Output: Hot shoe, 3.5 mm port (receiver)
  • Input: USB port (transmitter and receiver)
  • Attachment: 1/4 tripod lug, cold shoe (Receiver)
  • Input voltage: 2.4-3.2V
  • Flash port voltage handling: 6V (transmitter) ≤300V(receiver)
  • Body dimensions: 94(L) x 66(W) x 35(H) mm, (transmitter), 90(L) x 45(W) x 40(H) mm (receiver)
  • Antenna: built-in PCB antenna
  • Weight: 105g (transmitter), 66g (receiver) – without batteries
  • Operating temperature: -15—65℃
  • Storage temperature: -30—85℃

Compatibility

Nikon Digital Cameras and Flashes. Some third party TTL flashes may function with the Phottix Odin. Due to the vast number of third party alternative Phottix will not test, support or troubleshoot third party flashes.

Flashes: Nikon SB-400, SB-600, SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 (Update: Nikon SB-700 is also supported)
Cameras: D70 and D70s not compatible.

* Newer Phottix Flash triggers are compatible with older version – older triggers cannot fire newer systems. For more information please see the Phottix Odin TTL Flash Trigger for Nikon instruction manual.

This entry was posted in Nikon Flashes and tagged . Bookmark the permalink. Trackbacks are closed, but you can post a comment.
  • `/1nc3nt

    Hm.. #?@ Ups, I am sorry.

    I can buy 3 flashes control it with a Nikon body or buy additional commander such as SU-800. Why do I need this?

    • ZL80

      Are you really ignorant or acting idiotic. Do some research before posting anything in the future, thanks.

      • scurvyhesh.

        YOU ZL80! You are whats wrong with Nikonrumors. How did that rant help? Perhaps next time you can contribute to the conversation by educating the guy instead of coming off like a jerk meanie. Not knowing the difference between radio and infrared flash triggers doesn’t make someone an idiot. Perhaps he never uses flash in that way. Many don’t. There are a lot of ways to do photography and you cant expect everyone to know every little detail about a system at all times.

        • `/1nc3nt

          Well. Thanks, 2.4GHz rings a bell to me.

          • scurvyhesh

            No prob. This board is infested with meanies.

      • scurvyhesh

        Did you delete my post admin? If so, why?

        • http://nikonrumors.com/ [NR] admin

          I did not delete your post, I will check the spam folder.

    • Calibrator

      Hint:

      “Wireless 2.4GHz.”

    • Djaja

      I have SU800 but I wíll sell it soon. Why? This Odin has 100 meters range of distance wirelessly! SU800 only 10 meters….

  • Tarepanda

    The price, copy from the website, is $ 350.00

    I had no idea why I am not buying the PocketWizard but Phottix……….

    • Joe R.

      Looking on Adorama, a PocketWizard FlexTT5 transceiver for Nikon is $219. All you get is the transceiver. You would still have to buy a second unit. This Odin set comes with both a transmitter and a reciever, and even sync cables. I have no idea what the quality of these Odins are compared to PocketWizard, but based on price alone, the Odin seems to be a better deal.

      • Manfred S

        don’t Forget to add the ac3 Zone commander to come Close to the functionality of the Odin. but even then you can’t control zoom Settings for example.

      • http://Www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

        @ Joe R. – The Phottix Odins definitely look like a cheaper alternative to the PocketWizard FlexTT5 and AC3 system.  As an owner of several FlexTT5 units, the MiniTT1, PowerMC2, and an AC3 Zone controller, I must admit I do like the integration, innovation, reliability, and flexibility of the PocketWizard TTL i-TTL system for Nikon.  The ability to use the PowerST4 with Elinchrom RX studio lights, the PowerMC2 with Paul C. Buff Einstein 640 studio lights, and even some Profoto studio lights, is absolutely fantastic.  You also get Sekonic light meter triggering, now with PocketWizard CTL support.  With the AC3 zone controller, or a SU-800, you can control the power of those remote studio lights systems in one of three lighting groups.  Plus you can mix and match all of the systems.  The PocketWizard also allows you to fine tune the transceivers for cheating sync a bit.  Plus you can set the FlexTT5 into a relay mode to extend your triggering distance.  One additional feature of the FlexTT5 units is the fact that they can act as transmitter or receiver for even more flexibility.

        Now with all that said, I welcome the new Odin products as it creates a bit of competition for PocketWizard.  PocketWizard products are a bit overpriced in my opinion; but hey they were the only game in town that did i-TTL with extensions in functionality with the CTL system.

        As for the zoom head of the Nikon SB-xxx flash units tracking with the focal distance of the lens, I say PW probably could have done it too, but I can’t think of a reason to.  Now, if you could manually zoom the SB-xxx flash units remotely via the Odins, that might come in handy in some situations.  Otherwise I look at this capability like this….If I put an off camera flash unit to my right, and closer to the subject than I am with the camera for example; the flash head won’t zoom to the right focal length anyway, because the camera thinks the flash is in the hotshoe of the camera body and therefore assumes the flash head is the same distance as the camera.  Another issue is this….if you tilt or swivel the SB-xxx flash head up or to the side, the camera no longer attempts to force the flash to track the focal length of the lens.  The reason for this is due to the fact that the camera thinks you are bouncing the flash off another object, therefore the zoom setting of the flash can’t be accurately determined because the distance measurements are made by the lens which is now facing in a different direction.  Do you have the older AIS lenses, or even older models?  If so, they don’t convey the distance information to the camera anyway.   It wasn’t until 1992 with AF-D that Nikon provided the distance information (hence the D for distance).  AF-S lenses provide distance information…naturally.  One more for you…putting the flash on an umbrella mount and on a lightstand may actually be a detriment if the Odin’s flash zoom feature can’t be disabled.  Typically, you put your flashes in the umbrella mount and then zoom the flash heads manually until the light is evenly dispersed through the umbrella.  If your flash suddenly zooms to 200mm because you just set your 70-200mm lens at the long end, you may get an undesirable hot spot in the center of the umbrella.  Now with that said, I’m sure the folks at Phottix took this into consideration and followed Nikon’s zoom methodologies for tilt, swing, and manual zoom settings, so I doubt some of these problems will arise.  However, the reason you buy a radio trigger is to get over the distance limitations and/or direct sun restrictions of the IR based i-TTL system (CLS) from Nikon…AND to get the flash off camera.  So I would have reservations about making this a must have feature in a radio triggering device, when weighing your decisions.

        Now don’t get me wrong, the PocketWizard system is far from perfect.  I would have REALLY liked to seen a FlexTT5 with a LCD character display and a means to step through and set numerous configuration settings; I hate having to hook the units up to a computer to modify the configs.  A PocketWizard CTL configuration  app for the iPhone/iPad or Android would have been a super feature.  Fortunately the PWs let you store two configurations on each device, but often times, even more are needed.  Thus you are forced to store profiles on your laptop and take it with you if you need to makes changes in the field.  Alternately, you could just buy more FLEX units and label them to keep track of the settings.  No solution is perfect….yet.

        • Soapstop

          It says you can adjust the zoom head in manual. Now, that may mean a few things, but to one reviewer, he is saying that on the “auto” setting it follows the zoom of the lens, leaving (ipso facto) the manual setting to change the flash zoom setting manually. At least, it’s the way I’m reading it.

        • Soapstop

          By the way, Dr.SCSI, you’ve made good points all. I had forgotten that PW’s could be fine tuned, after reading it somewhere. That and they can work with some studio strobes (which I don’t use/have at the moment). No doubt they are a good product. If they weren’t, they wouldn’t be as popular as they are.

  • AM

    How about the SB-700? It’s weird that it’s not in the compatibility list.

  • BarryB

    Finally something to be competitive with PW’s and Radiopoppers! Would be very interested to see an in depth review on these for Nikon, as both of the other alternatives have had early issues with some things not working either as advertised or with “gotcha’s” (ie, a certain feature will only work with a certain configuration or mode). If this truly makes CLS wireless with good range, it could be a nice alternative. Nice to see that you don’t have to go into Nikon’s menus to change the flash output.

  • Steven Mackie

    I love my Strattos 2 triggers, I will be buying this sucker in a heartbeat.

  • ActionJunky

    PocketWizards are only a few dollars more. They do not allow remote camera triggering (that I know about), but considering the reputation, build quality, and form factor of the miniTT, I would stick to PocketWizard. The plastic body of the Phottix does not seems robust enough to demand a $350 price tag.

  • n/a

    I believe, even clueless monkeys would be better user interface designers, than the ones behind odin. look into pw ac3 zonecontroller for inspiration and simplicity…

    • NoName

      yes, stacking unit (transmitter + ac3) is simplicity.

      • n/a

        stacking design allows to put a flash on top of transmitter if I chose so…

        simplicity is I can change power in any group by simply rotating a graded dile, or switch off, manual or ttl/auto by dedicated switch.

        everyone is raving about dedicated camera controls – why flash trigger shuld not be the same?

  • anonym

    Nikonrumors, more like Referral- or Affiliaterumors eh?

  • ATK

    It is not cheap !!!

  • Mike

    I have been waiting for this for a long time. It’s essentially a radio version of the SU-800. No more stacking PW transmitter with either AC/3 or the SU-800. Just one clean unit. Thank you Phottix!

    • http://haroldellis4444@gmail.com Harold Ellis

      PWs can also TTL.
      But i am afraid that those Odins will be even less reliable then PWs. Nikon CLS is science and hard to reverse engineer.
      Too bad that nikon does not already have it’s own wireless radio remote system.

      • Tom

        PocketWizards can do TTL… on older Nikons. I haven’t looked at an updated list in 9 months, but at that point they did not support any of the newer models.

        • http://haroldellis4444@gmail.com Harold Ellis

          what is newer then D800 ?

          • silmasan

            D600.

          • don

            D3200

            It just seems older because unlike the D800, it’s available.

  • http://www.paulvincentphoto.com paul vincent

    SWEET! no more RP for me!! at last, now you can also control the zoom range of slave flash straight from the master, orayt!!

    • Actionjunky

      The zoom range is limited to 105mm. The SB-900 was designed to work with the 70-200 lens and has a native zoom range of 200mm. I’ll admit it may not be too effective at that range, but if I was shooting sports and had to remote mount the flash off court, it could prove useful. I currently have very basic, inexpensive trigger from Yougyuo, but they have broken twice and I may be upgrading. If so, PocketWizard for me.

      • http://www.paulvincentphoto.com paul vincent

        really? that sucks if its just up to 105mm. But still this will help. PW flex systems is not that reliable. It works 5 out of 5. With this ratio its no good for events. Moments have passed by the time it works properly. Been using RP for years now. From 1st gen to the latest RP. It works 9 out of 10 for me. Draw back is the housing that holds the receivers and transmitters have plastic screw mounts that breaks easily. Replaced mine several times. so what i did is Velcroed it directly to the flash. but it looks weird and you got to keep on pushing the units together to make sure it will not fall off. So this Odin will be much much more convenient for me.

        • http://Www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

          @paul vincent,
          Check out my lengthy post above about this new zoom feature…If you can’t manually adjust the zoom, remotely via wireless, this feature could prove less beneficial, or even detrimental. As for the reliability of PW, 5 of 5 is 100%, where as 9 of 10 is only 90% for RP…thus, your assesment seems to be consistent with the rest of the world.

  • http://atelierh-photography.com Hien

    I am excited about this new product. I have both the PW Plus II which I use for triggering studio strobes, and PW Mini for triggering speedlights. I normally like using a SB700 as the master to trigger 2 SB910s off camera, when indoors. I got the PW Mini for outdoor use and other situations where line of sight is an issue. 2 problems I’ve encountered with the PW Mini is that it seems unreliable on “A” mode so I usually am always on “M”. The bigger problem for me with the Mini is that I can’t get the SB910s to give me the audio when they have recycled (because the speedlights aren’t in remote mode). I’m hoping this product will act more like the way I use the SB700 as an on-camera trigger, while using wireless radio.

  • Slow

    Took their sweet time about it!

    I live in Hong Kong, might need to pop into the phottix shop in mong kok and have a look.

  • su800

    well, it means, sb 400 could be triggered wirelessly and the output of sb 400 could be adjusted as well, which brings down cost of off-camera flash when using Nikon flash.

  • Brooklyn

    whats wrong with the Pocket Wizards?

    • silmasan

      what’s wrong with healthy competition?

      • Chad

        +1

    • Teun

      As I understand it, the phottix brings more control and a AF-assist on the controller to the party. I think it acts more like a rf su-800. If so, this unit gives you more flexible control. I think I might buy one when reviews are good.

    • Steve Clarke

      Having looked, they seem to have skimped a bit on materials… Look at the remote unit it has a metal foot, now look at the receiver, its plastic. how much extra would it have used the metal part from the remote unit rather than cheeper plastic!

  • ActionJunky

    If you have two remote flashes, the transmitter/receiver combo and an additional receiver would cost you $500. The Pocketwizard miniTT is $199 and each FlexTT5 receiver is $219, for a total of $637, retail. For a $137 difference, I will rely on the build construction and customer support from PocketWizard.

    Now… To PocketWizard… If you wanted to reduce your price by 10% or offer a one-time discount, it sure would make the decision that much easier for those on the fence. :)

    • kurogome

      not $137 but $216 difference (+ AC3 $79).

      • ActionJunky

        You’re right. I overlooked the grouping function. I have to admit that it is a little more appealing now, but it stills seems like a relatively small difference.

        • Soapstop

          Plus the zoom function. :)

        • Soapstop

          Oops. Hit post too early. Was also planning to include the AC3’s very annoying manual mode that (yes, ok, I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed) makes you have to carry a slide rule to figure out your output from the dial. Still struggle with that one, and the fact that you can only dial down your flash to 1/64 in manual, not 1/128. Not a huge deal, except for that delicate kicker light or hair light in a low key setup.

          • http://Www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

            @soapstop, zoom feature is over-rated…reas my earlier post. With PW, you can actually get a total of 10 stops of control if used on DSLRs with FEC capabilities. I get 1/256 regularly with Einstein 640 using AC3 and D700 with FEC -1. In theory, if the reference image taken with the PW is set with AC3 to +3 and the FEC set to +1, you should be able to get -10 stops on the next image, if you then set the AC3 to -3 and the FEC to -3. I have read somewhere online, that a user was actually able to get his SB-800 to put out less than 1/128 by using this FEC trick. I tried it too, but at less than 1/128 power, the SB-800 and SB-900 had inconsistent output, but it was definitely less than 1/128!! I didn’t mind since the SBs aren’t designed to go that low anyway. In a pinch this can really help you get a whisper kiss of light.

            • Soapstop

              Dear Dr. : I agree, up to a point. If you are looking to throw a bar flash up on the dance floor and want to narrow that beam some, the zoom will help somewhat. I read two conflicting (don’t you love rumours) reports of “zoom to 105mm only” and “can zoom to 200mm if flash is capable” in talking about Odin’s abilities. Will test that out as well when I get mine. To be sure, if I already owned PW’s, I would be sticking with PW’s. Thanks for your contributions, they are well worded and obviously borne of experience.

            • Soapstop

              I’m firing my proof reader: It supposed to read “bare” not “bar”. Egads. I”m going to go recharge some batteries or something.

            • http://Www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

              @soapstop, thanks for positive remarks…I like your comments as well, as they are thought out. As you pointed out, the zoom capability seems to be interpreted in one of two ways…either you can control zoom remotely via the Odins, when the flash is in manual mode, or you can control the zoom (at the flash) when in manual mode. Alternately as another reader interpreted it, the flash zoom will track the focal length of the lens. With the PW CTL system, you can only manually (at the flash) set the zoom. The 105mm vs 200mm maximum flash head zoom settings is a physical limitation of the SB-800 and SB-900/910, respectively; it has nothing to do with any triggering system’s limitation. I personally see little value in being able to remotely set a flash zoom head; unless of course you only have one flash per group and that flash is mounted high on a lightstand. I guess time will provide us the details.

            • Soapstop

              Good Doctor: Thanks for that. Re: Remote zooming of flash: I was only assuming controlling one flash high on a light stand. Worthless when you have two or more assigned to a group unless you have them all (say three or 4) in a large parabolic umbrella and you were trying to control the scope of the bounce, but admittedly, it’s few and far between. We can all think up of those once in a lifetime “Ok, so if i was up in a tree, and there was a dog up in a tree beside me and I needed to control ambient light…..” sort of scenarios’ that really don’t happen, mebe never.

              Keep on contributing Doc, I never tire of knowledgeable people sharing their considerate and considerable experience. :)

  • Jeswin

    Still trying to figure out why SB-700 has been left off the compatibility list. Any theories?

  • Mo

    Damn expensive at this point. Strattos ii were priced very well and gave pocket wizards a run for their money. Not sure if they just forgot to write the sb70o or not. But if it is really incompatible then there better be an explanation from their reverse engineers:)
    350$ would buy you 2 pw5 and just add a few bucks and you have a zone controller with it. But in the end you will have Pw. Not also sure why they left D70/s out?!?I was really waiting for phottix Odin for Nikon but now will just wait and see if they will consider lowering the price or not. I’m sure there will be some bugs in the first few months that need firmware update. So for now will stick to cls and strato ii

  • HKer

    I’ve been using PW TT5 and AC3 for a while, a bit fiddley sometimes to set up, everything has to be switched on in the right order. But i do like the AC3, so easy to dial the power up and down quickly. However, the PW AC3 power only down to 1/64, i think i read the phottizx goes down to 1/128. Which would be useful. I’ve invested too much in PW, x4 TT5 and 1 AC3, yes i see the phottix LCD can be handy also working in low light and a battery indicator is useful. I always put in fresh rechargeable batteries in the TT5. If i was starting from scratch then no hesitation buying the Phottix – looks good value, but now not going to invest in another system, reason being that i will wait wait and wait for hopefully nikon to bring out something liket the Canon 680EX. Yes I know could be a long wait, but who knows. Regarding the remote trigger issue, you can always attach another remote trigger on the 10 pin connector, they are pretty cheap. PS the SB910 are awesome, did 12hr wedding shoot and no overheating issues!

    • http://Www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

      @HKer, with a DSLR that has FEC, you can get four more stops of negative control. i.e. 10 stops total, or 1/1024! That is the theory, but in practice I have achieved 1/256 using Einstein 640 and CTL. BTW, PW was supposed to be working on firmware which permits mixing Nikon and Canon speedlights with either i-TTL or E-TTL systems with PW CTL being the glue which brings it together. I also wish PW would make an LCD version of the FLEXTT5 to facilitate easy configuration without a PC; that would be a big benefit.

  • Fishnose

    Since I have my 2 flashes in softboxes I dont have much use for TTL function. Zooming and such.
    What is REALLY useful is full manual control – being able to set levels from the tranmitter and not have to open my softboxes to twiddle. And these guys do just that – allow full manual control. And don’t require line of sight.
    Avoiding CLS means neither I nor the models have to put up with preflashes from the camera.
    But the price is a bit steep…..

    • Anonymus Maximus

      I am not sure that you will loose ALL the pre-flashes. Some are for communication (that ones might be suppressed) but others are for TTL Testing, and those will still be there I think.

      • Fishnose

        No, if you’re running it fully manual, and don’t have a command flash, you won’t get pre-flashes.

  • http://www.oinkandcoo.ca Oink & Coo Photograp

    It’s great to come competitive in the wireless iTTL space against the PocketWizes. I hope someone gets a chance to review the Phottix solution. It sounds promising.

    Q: Does anyone know if the ‘control’ unit features an AF pattern assist for low-light situations?

    • http://haroldellis4444@gmail.com Harold Ellis

      on nikon, we need no stinking, disturbing pattern to AF

      • http://Www.annic.nl Andre

        You van turn it off on the sb900, don’t know for the other models. I pefere it over the bright light on the camera. The orange light on my old fuji bridge camera was most preferable. Now I shoot without it.

  • Phil R

    “Due to the vast number of third party alternative Phottix will not test, support or troubleshoot third party flashes”

    My advice to phottix is shove it where the sun does not shine! Get real won’t support third party makers..get a grip phottix so Metz are not a big vendor? Crappy customer support if I ever saw any..baaah

  • http://adampadgettweddings.com Adam P

    I’ve been waiting on the Odin for while!

    While the Odin is a little pricier than a lot of people hoped, it is still much cheaper than PW’s Flex system if you are using more than one flash. The Strato/Odin recievers are much cheaper ($60) than a TT5 ($200ish) and folks like me already have a few of them.

    One quick question though……will the Strato II recievers allow TTL with the Odin? Or does only the Odin recievers allow TTL?

    • ActionJunky

      The Odin receivers are will over $100, so it seems the Strato will not work iTTL. As I stated earlier, they are roughly 75% the cost or PocketWizard. I would have to think twice before risking 75 percent of my money on a Hong Kong solution when another is available locally.

      I should say that I have never had difficulty with any Hong Kong firm, but I have had cheaper units fail and needed to pay full cost for a replacement.

      • http://Www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

        @actionjunky,
        +1….@75% there is just to much risk to be an early adopter. If however, the product proves reliable and capable, then 75% might be well spent on the Odins.

  • MB

    This could be fantastic product.
    RF wireless trigger that supports iTTL, zoom, has AF assist illumination etc.
    If it works (and I am sure it will work with SB-700 too) this could be the ultimate strobist accessory … and at that price!
    If only Nikon would be smart enough to make something similar then we will not need to think about compatibility problems (except for third party products of course).

  • Soapstop

    I think it would have to work with the SB700. I might be wrong, but it stands to reason. If all these units(sb700/800/900) can work in the on camera shoe, take i-ttl info that is passed through, then it should be able to take the ittl info that is passed through the receivers hot shoe as well. Perhaps limited functionality due to the a/b weighted lighting scheme in the sb700, but should still work. Don’t see why not. As for the Phottix build quality, if the “Canon-aders” have given it a rousing thumbs up (most quarters, that is) I am comfortable that Phottix has made a good product. It doesn’t have an AF assist beam, no. That’s fine by me. Had held off on the PW’s until these bad boys were issued. Placed my order for them. I’ll let you know how it goes. I transmitter, 4 receivers. Complete I-ttl control, manual in 1/3rds (Canon’s version doesn’t have that, if I remember correctly :)). That and it works with my strato’s for triggering completely manually. Time to play boys and girls!! :)

  • Soapstop

    By-the-by, paid $715 (after a pre-order discount was applied for paying a certain way) for 1 trans and 4 receivers. In Canada. Canadian dollero’s. Not gloating here, just happy ’cause usually it’s me that pays the premium ’cause I got it from somewhere else that nobody has ever heard of.

    • Bob Panick

      Timing here sucks, just bought three PW TT5 units. Yeah, I could send them back, but a solution in hand that works beats one that the jury is still out on. Besides I already have an SU-800. Did anyone notice how very similar the controller is to the display on the SU-800. Gotta wonder if they borrowed the SU-800 and replaced the IR with RF. There are a few differences, mostly to the good in my opinion.

      • Soapstop

        Bob:
        My thoughts for what it ‘s worth is that it’s never a bad idea to buy good stuff. I would categorize PW’s as good stuff. I don’t think you could go wrong there. As for the Su-800 look a like, well, they (Phottix) brought out their version for Canon first, in the same shell. I think it’s just a form factor that works. Just my two bits. And with my investments doing what their doing, I would like to “short” those two bits on the market, please. :)

  • http://www.kishorephotography.com Kishore

    Pocketwizards look like more of a wireless system and don’t necessarily support cls.
    but phottix seems to support cls or something in groups and manual and ttl

    • http://Www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

      @Kishore, the PW provide radio based equivalent of CLS using PW’s own CTL system found in the FlexTT5, MiniTT1 and other CTL devices. You get groups and lighting ratios and much more control.

  • BrianT

    Can someone recommend a good primer (website or book) on how to use PocketWizards or other multiple-flash/trigger systems? I’m intrigued about the possibilities, but have no idea what equipment I should buy or at least start with to grow a system. Right now I own a D90 camera with a D800 on order and own one SB600 flash (and maybe an old SB28 and SU4 if I can find them). I don’t really know much about moderm multi-flash systems using the latest camera “smarts”.

    • silmasan

      I think strobist.blogspot.com would be a good place to start (look at the Lighting 101 series). It’s quite popular among people learning multiple flash setup (myself included). I also sometimes follow neilvn.com/tangents/ (mostly female models and weddings but loads of great results complete with the how-to’s and wha’ts-used). And of course, there’s always He Should Not Be Named–… jk, it’s Joe McNally– who frequently posts about his behind-the-scenes on his blog. Good luck. :)

      • silmasan

        He Who… He Who Must… dammit

    • Soapstop

      Brian:
      Go to the PocketWizard website. There is a decent video by Mark Wallace, I think, showing the features. It’s an overview, but it gives you the basics. Personally, and this is just me, I think Pocket Wizards are nice, but not as nice as the Odins. IMHO though. PW’s make a good product, but have heard some consistency issues though with them. Everybody has that, to be fair.

  • jms

    hi,

    how can we compare that to Pixel King Wireless TTL Triggers ?

    thx!

    • Soapstop

      Well, the biggest difference is that you have seperate control of the output *from the camera* for each group or groups of flashes. Pixel King (while good little units) don’t have that ability. Globally, you can control all of the flashes output via EC or FEC, as the Pixel King transmit I-TTL information (wow, nearly typed in E-TTL, don’t know where that came from- a guy could get bludgeoned for that), but only on a global scale, it doesn’t work with the CLS system in any way, cannot be applied to just one group of flashes. You can only choose the groups of flashes for which the settings apply (if working through TTL) and turn off the rest, or perhaps (I’m no expert on Pixel Kings) put another transmitter on through the hot shoe or PC Sync port and trigger another group of flashes via manual. Lastly, you can also set your flashes to slave off of the flashes you have running through your Kings. In any case, it ain’t happening for you all from the camera. You are going to be running to each flash if you want absolute (oh, the power) control (including zoom, baby!) of your remote flashes. I seriously considered Pixel Kings until I saw the Odin’s last year for Canon. I drooled. Seriously and literally.

      • Soapstop

        Hmm. I see I wasn’t very clear in my response. I kind of jumped around a bit on that one. I was talking about the Pixel Kings (as in what they can’t do) and then – as a comparison- flipped over to the Odin’s to say that the Odin’s can control groups in seperate, distinct levels of TTL or Manual output, and control the zoom settings of each flash (that is if each flash are in a seperate group). I didn’t really flesh that out very well. Sorry for the incomplete answer.

  • http://nikonrumors.com/ [NR] admin

    Update: Nikon SB-700 is also supported

  • Sean

    Am I the only one who has never been satisfied with Pocket Wizard ControlTL? I bought into the whole system but it never fully worked in TTL with my D700 and SB-800s. The misfires and random full-powered discharges have kept me from deploying them professionally.

    Sure they’re American engineered but they don’t f-ing work! If these HK units prove to actually work as advertised I’ll be all over them…at least until Nikon offers an in house solution.

    • Soapstop

      Sean: I can’t speak from personal experience, but I’ve heard the same things from a number of different people, not just Canon-aders that had a problem with the RF interference with their 580 flashes. They haven’t been as consistent as (I believe) they know they need to be. I must admit that the dials on the AC3 are very simple and quick, but from what I have heard from a number of Phottix Odin users, (Canon side) they have been more than pleased with the easy to use menu system. I’m sure the odins have had failures as well, and am sure that there might be a few buggy copies out there, but I’m willing to take the gamble.

    • http://Www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

      @Sean, I too bought into the PW CTL system, and I must admit, it hasn’t been the seemless product I had hoped it would be. Only after several firmware updates did they become what they should have been on launch. Although much better, it still isnt 100% perfect. I can only hope that PW continues to refine their products with future firmware. Here is my recommendation…upgrade FW on all of the PWs you own and spend at least a solid week learning how they really work. You will discover their limits and quirks and how to make them work for you an not against you.

  • http://www.kishorephotography.com Kishore

    This is the feature which is better over the pocketwizards
    Mix TTL and Manual flash – fire some groups in TTL, others as manual

    • Soapstop

      With AC3 controller, pocketwizards can do that as well. You were probably just talking about the TT5 and TT1 in their standard format (without AC3)

  • Allen W.

    Excuse my ignorance, but using a D2x or similar does use of the Odin system mean that there is no way to include an on-camera SB-800 flash unit? I.e. does the Odin transmitter fully occupy the D2x hot shoe with no pass-through to a flash unit?

    Many events require on-camera flash plus wireless, but CLS often has “issues.”

    TIA

    -Allen

    • Soapstop

      Allen:
      If you need “on camera” you can fire via your PC sync port. I suppose you could run a hot shoe extension (that has pass through ttl) that could run to a flash on a bracket attached to your camera. Mount the odin on the adapter. Or you can PC to a radio trigger, or simply use a Odin receiver on top of a shoe mounted on a bracket attached to your camera. Number of different ways, but you will definately need a bracket.

      • Allen W.

        Thanks for that. I routinely use a flash bracket for events anyway so the synch port is a great idea that I should have thought of. Make use of one of the extraneous expensive Nikon cables I have.

        Then the next question will be how well it all properly synchs TTL with 70-200mm 2.8 and SB-910 on the camera, three SB-800s remote. Sounds like it is worth investing in though.

        • Soapstop

          Hey Allen. Don’t think it should be a sync problem at all (IMHO). I’ve got 4 SB800’s and once those Odin’s arrive, I will be doing some of that testing. I’ll try to let you know how it goes.

    • http://Www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

      @Allen W.
      From what I read about the Odin system, there are two parts, transmitter and receiver. The transmitter appears to be VERY much like the SU-800 from Nikon, only it is using radio waves to transmit CLS data to the receivers which are attached to the remote flashes. Looking at the transmitter, I don’t see a hotshoe on top for a flash on the Odin. So I guess you would be out of luck with the Odins for your purpose.

      The PW system differs in that the FlexTT5 is a transceiver and it can do either transmit or receive duty. Plus, you can have the FlexTT5 mounted on camera with a flash in the hotshoe of the FlexTT5, giving you both on camera and off camera radio based flash control. Having both the MiniTT1 (transmitter only for PW) and FlexTT5, I can recommend against the MiniTT1, you are better off with a FlexTT5 on the camera. Plus, if you put a SB800/900 on the FlexTT5, which is on the DSLR, you can control the other flash groups via your on camera flash without the need of a SU800 or AC3 zone controller. All done via radio waves!

      • Allen W.

        “…if you put a SB800/900 on the FlexTT5, which is on the DSLR, you can control the other flash groups via your on camera flash without the need of a SU800 or AC3 zone controller. All done via radio waves!”

        So the PW system would be 4 FlexTT5 units (at $219 each) for 4 Nikon SB-910/SB800 units, correct? There are not cheaper PW receive-only units that exist?

        I would be inclined toward PW because they have been around longer, but total price is important.

        • http://www.novumlucis.com Dr SCSI

          @Allen W.
          “So the PW system would be 4 FlexTT5 units (at $219 each) for 4 Nikon SB-910/SB800 units, correct? There are not cheaper PW receive-only units that exist?”
          Correct, you will need 4 FlexTT5 units. One on camera, and then a SB910/SB800 on top of that, and then one for each remaining SB910/SB800 that is off camera. Now, if you don’t need the ability to remotely Control The Light (CTL) for all of your off camera SB flashes, you can mix and match the newer CTL transceivers with older standard channel receivers/transceivers, like the Plus, PlusII, PlusIII, MultiMax, etc. (The newest PlusIII is feature rich and can be had for $139 at B&H, where as the older less capable models can be found a bit cheaper on eBay.) Only hitch is the older standard chanels won’t give you iTTL, thus you set those flash units manually and they can only be triggered. That is the cool thing about the FlexTT5 and MiniTT1 units, in transmitter mode, they transmit simultaneously on the CTL channels as well as the older standard channels; this is all configurable by the PocketWizard utility. Unfortunately PocketWizard doesn’t make cheaper receiver only devices like they used to with the original Plus; they make more profit selling a transceiver instead! Another option for radio based iTTL is the RadioPopper series; but they too are expensive. Photographer Dave Black swears by RadioPoppers, but he had his customized to reduce the number of receivers he required. I considered the RPs, but waited on the FlexTT5 model instead as they have more flexibility and more features beyond standard iTTL and CLS. PW CTL system is expensive, but is it worth it; initially when they came out, I would have said no, but now after many firmware upgrades, I say yes.
          IF, big IF here…If I had to do it all over again today, I would buy four PaulCBuff Einstein 640’s, their Vagabond lithium battery packs, and the PW CTL radio triggering system. It doesn’t do iTTL, but I find I very much like controlling the lights manually anyway via the AC3. Currently, I mix Einstein 640 with SB900’s, all triggered using the PocketWizard CTL system (i.e. FlexTT5, MiniTT1, AC3, PowerMC2). The SB900’s work using iTTL, while the Einstein 640 works with CTL. I plan on adding two more Einstein 640s to my kit eventually. If you only need studio strobes and the ability to remotely control the power levels and wirelessly trigger the strobes, then you should look closely at the Einstein 640 with the Paul C Buff radio system. Their radios were cheap so I bought a set to test them out and I WAS immensly impressed.

          • Sean

            Yes, if Odin end up a better option than the PW ControlTL, I will miss being able to adjust and control my Einsteins + MC2.

  • http://www.kenwest.com K West

    I’ve used Radio Poppers for about 2 years now and while they have worked extremely well I’ve never like their horrific plastic attachment system that snuggles them up against the IR sensor. This bulky 2 piece contraption was a disaster of design in my opinion (although I admit it does work). The Phottix design is very elegant in nature and bypassing the entire IR sensor makes so much more sense. Of course the ultimate solution is for Nikon to simply put radio transmission in all their models of cameras and flashes so this entire conversation about 3rd party software becomes moot!!

    • http://www.kellinixon.com Bill Nixon

      I couldn’t agree more with you. RP’s work great! Just a few things that I don’t really love about them.

  • http://www.kellinixon.com Bill Nixon

    I currently use the RadioPoppers PX system. What I don’t like about RP’s is that they interface is super basic. I also can hardly see the lights of the RP’s outside because they aren’t bright enough in our Colorado sunshine. Lastly, I sometimes have to reset the RP’s by taking the battery out, then put it back in. (of course, price at $500 for a transmitter and receiver is pretty steep too)

    What I like about the RP’s is that it attaches to the flash head rather than the hot shoe. This allows me to use an on camera flash and control everything from the main flash (SB800 for me). With this one from Phottix, it doesn’t allow for an on camera flash which I actually prefer to have to give a slight bit of fill sometimes.

    I really wish that they would make an SB900R or something with RF built into the flash. That would solve everything for me. I guess I could get two receivers and use one of those goofy brackets that the old school photographers used. :)

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